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Spyke

Solex
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About Spyke

  • Birthday January 17

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    East Bay SF area
  • Interests
    CARS, Photography, Food

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  1. I will take a full set as well, and I'll go through Ireland for a CR set
  2. That's what I don't understand. Tracing the OEM diagrams, I don't see either pin 6 or 7 having relays. So why would they need relays in a swapped configuration, but not in the stock layout?
  3. That's massively helpful. Looks like pin 6 and 7 are indeed just signal only, so I'll be ignoring Jakeb's call for relays. Thank you very much, I'm not sure why that didn't come up in all my forum searches, but I am saving the shit out of that link. Thank you kind sir!!!
  4. Yup, that's one of 3 that I have, but it conflicts with Jakeb's writeup, which is why I am in limbo on 6 and 7
  5. Bump, I think I have almost everything figured out besides two wires and one questionable wire that I may not need at all.
  6. It works great, it was super cheap, it won't have to be redone every 5-10 years, and nobody can see it unless you remove the seat from the car and turn it upside down. Yes. Seriously.
  7. I used shower pan liner, tripled over and fused together with the recaro bars in place (made a template from my old original ones. SUPER supportive, with juuuust a little bit of elasticity. It will likely never fail, even when I'm worm food.
  8. Mega bummer. I miss everyone's cars (sad face)
  9. Aasco flywheel works with stock everything, so I went with that since I already had it on hand and it's not overly lightweight. Everything came together nicely Engine is complete as a unit and united with the subframe. Car lifted up super high, you need about 33" of clearance not including whatever you're using to slide it under the car. I used low profile jacks to pivot it into place. Then grabbed the engine from the top using an engine crane, and pulled it up into place so I could mate the subframe to the body. I pulled out the stock return line and got rid of the plastic fuel feed running through the cabin. I used new 5/16" stainless to bend up two new lines for both feed and return. These I flared on both ends, and I very guiltily made a new hole for the return hose to pass through. Even though I am using nice reinforced and jacketed line, I lined the new hole with some thick heater hose to protect the return line. The unused return is capped using the ol' bolt in a piece of hose trick. The new return flows through the e30 m42 fuel pump to avoid a potentially dangerous static charge build up. After mocking up several times and then coming to realize that I could not access the pin that links the selector rod and selector joint together, I gave up. Instead of shortening the e21 platform, I chopped it down to basically just the cup and immediate surrounding area. Using 3 of the e30 airbox bushings, and cutting down the e21 foam (it has a metal core) I made essentially a mostly-rigid chassis mount. This eliminated a bunch of extra parts and chances for play, and I generally like a more positive feeling shifter assembly anyways. Since I can't use the stock airbox, obviously we have to go aftermarket. I went with the KA Motors intake kit, as it seems nice enough and comes with an AFM adapter. (I have recently learned the intake is really just a generic piece you can online anywhere for pretty cheap.) While the intake is okay, the adapter is quite the opposite. The AFM adapter is metal and the hole pattern is close enough, but the mating flange was fairly warped. It took about 20 minutes of sanding by hand (with 3 steps of grit) on my work bench to get it flat enough for me to be happy. The "gasket" is made out of a hard, thick, non-malliable material that seems like Polystyrene or something similar. Also WILDLY warped, and since it's completely non-conforming it's essentially useless as a gasket. Ended up sanding this flat enough to use as well, but used some gasket maker on both sides of it. AFM coupled with Jakeb's bracket. The bracket was pretty rough, and also needed a lot of sanding in certain places to not cause notable hazard to soft hands.
  10. Cutting the e21 platform down was a mistake. As usual, trying to do things before hand to make it go faster and easier did exactly not that. It should have been left just as it was stock, as once in place it was already too short to make any minor adjustments. I can see no logical reason to use Jakeb's mounts and shorten the e21 platform. That said, I was exasperated at making it work, getting everything in place, and then finding out I could not install the pin on the selector rod/selector rod joint. The half-moon shift platform bushings and their mounting bolts (that go into the tapped transmission bosses) are in the way. So, I found two more e30 airbox bushings, chopped the shifter platform down to just the area around the cup, and mounted it up. I trimmed down the e21 foam piece (it has a metal core) as well to fill the void. Now it's a semi-rigid body mounted shifter, which I will probably be much happier with anyways. (The trans mounts are Delrin.) IE 5 speed conversion clutch line is in hand, looks like it will work perfect. Fluids will be the last thing in of course, so not officially tested. The selector rod is indeed 8.5" (216mm) center-to-center, using Jakeb's mounts. The adapter I will not incorporate unless the tach doesn't work when it's up and running. I am hung up on a couple details in the wiring, as again I am seeing conflicting info. #6 on the c101 is listed as the M42 ECU Power in Jakeb's list, however in the wiring diagram this is listed as "12V to Diagnostic Connector from Fuse 11 / Ignition Switch". This leads to pin #16 on the Diagnostic Connector. The white main relay which is incorporated into the engine wiring harness already, is what I believe powers the ECU. #15 is skipped over in Jakeb's list, but in the wiring diagram it's labeled "Engine Starting Signal" which seems odd to ignore. This goes over to the Starter, at contact 30h. The rest is very straight forward.
  11. nice! as long as it holds up and won't be sliced somehow, you should be good. I used something similar I trimmed from another pinch weld pad
  12. That looks pretty damn good. I always thought it was weird for the air to slam into a square box and try to go 90 degrees
  13. I just safety wired them on top and bottom, never had an issue since
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