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Spyke

Solex
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About Spyke

  • Birthday January 17

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  1. Aasco flywheel works with stock everything, so I went with that since I already had it on hand and it's not overly lightweight. Everything came together nicely Engine is complete as a unit and united with the subframe. Car lifted up super high, you need about 33" of clearance not including whatever you're using to slide it under the car. I used low profile jacks to pivot it into place. Then grabbed the engine from the top using an engine crane, and pulled it up into place so I could mate the subframe to the body. I pulled out the stock return line and got rid of the plastic fuel feed running through the cabin. I used new 5/16" stainless to bend up two new lines for both feed and return. These I flared on both ends, and I very guiltily made a new hole for the return hose to pass through. Even though I am using nice reinforced and jacketed line, I lined the new hole with some thick heater hose to protect the return line. The unused return is capped using the ol' bolt in a piece of hose trick. The new return flows through the e30 m42 fuel pump to avoid a potentially dangerous static charge build up. After mocking up several times and then coming to realize that I could not access the pin that links the selector rod and selector joint together, I gave up. Instead of shortening the e21 platform, I chopped it down to basically just the cup and immediate surrounding area. Using 3 of the e30 airbox bushings, and cutting down the e21 foam (it has a metal core) I made essentially a mostly-rigid chassis mount. This eliminated a bunch of extra parts and chances for play, and I generally like a more positive feeling shifter assembly anyways. Since I can't use the stock airbox, obviously we have to go aftermarket. I went with the KA Motors intake kit, as it seems nice enough and comes with an AFM adapter. (I have recently learned the intake is really just a generic piece you can online anywhere for pretty cheap.) While the intake is okay, the adapter is quite the opposite. The AFM adapter is metal and the hole pattern is close enough, but the mating flange was fairly warped. It took about 20 minutes of sanding by hand (with 3 steps of grit) on my work bench to get it flat enough for me to be happy. The "gasket" is made out of a hard, thick, non-malliable material that seems like Polystyrene or something similar. Also WILDLY warped, and since it's completely non-conforming it's essentially useless as a gasket. Ended up sanding this flat enough to use as well, but used some gasket maker on both sides of it. AFM coupled with Jakeb's bracket. The bracket was pretty rough, and also needed a lot of sanding in certain places to not cause notable hazard to soft hands.
  2. Cutting the e21 platform down was a mistake. As usual, trying to do things before hand to make it go faster and easier did exactly not that. It should have been left just as it was stock, as once in place it was already too short to make any minor adjustments. I can see no logical reason to use Jakeb's mounts and shorten the e21 platform. That said, I was exasperated at making it work, getting everything in place, and then finding out I could not install the pin on the selector rod/selector rod joint. The half-moon shift platform bushings and their mounting bolts (that go into the tapped transmission bosses) are in the way. So, I found two more e30 airbox bushings, chopped the shifter platform down to just the area around the cup, and mounted it up. I trimmed down the e21 foam piece (it has a metal core) as well to fill the void. Now it's a semi-rigid body mounted shifter, which I will probably be much happier with anyways. (The trans mounts are Delrin.) IE 5 speed conversion clutch line is in hand, looks like it will work perfect. Fluids will be the last thing in of course, so not officially tested. The selector rod is indeed 8.5" (216mm) center-to-center, using Jakeb's mounts. The adapter I will not incorporate unless the tach doesn't work when it's up and running. I am hung up on a couple details in the wiring, as again I am seeing conflicting info. #6 on the c101 is listed as the M42 ECU Power in Jakeb's list, however in the wiring diagram this is listed as "12V to Diagnostic Connector from Fuse 11 / Ignition Switch". This leads to pin #16 on the Diagnostic Connector. The white main relay which is incorporated into the engine wiring harness already, is what I believe powers the ECU. #15 is skipped over in Jakeb's list, but in the wiring diagram it's labeled "Engine Starting Signal" which seems odd to ignore. This goes over to the Starter, at contact 30h. The rest is very straight forward.
  3. nice! as long as it holds up and won't be sliced somehow, you should be good. I used something similar I trimmed from another pinch weld pad
  4. That looks pretty damn good. I always thought it was weird for the air to slam into a square box and try to go 90 degrees
  5. I just safety wired them on top and bottom, never had an issue since
  6. Dude this is an 11 year old classifieds post... nobody is really going to see or respond to this. Search the main discussion forum for the "Seat Porn" thread. Has a ton of old brochures and such for Recaro. You can probably ask more questions there if you don't see them answered already. LOTS of info already on here if you're willing to find it. Most of these seats will not be covered, but completely re-upholstered which is not a small job.
  7. Pending M42 swap necessitates that I move the battery. Initially I thought trunk as well but after reading numbers of these threads I decided under the rear seat (delete) was the best place for me. I also was not a fan of the idea of the battery near gas fumes, battery getting in the way of cargo or shorting out if something contacted it, etc.
  8. More work on the M42 swap for LunaBattery (smaller AGM) has been tucked under the rear seat delete.e30 M42 radiator modified for use in a late model 2002. As some of you know, the extra bracing on the late models means your radiator cap fouls on the underside of the hood, on the driver's side. So off we go! First, chop the expansion tank drain off, flush.The bottom area around this hole is then melted with a torch. Using a large metal coin from the other side for support, we then melt the filler ABS into the hole in the end tank shell (where that drain was). I repeated the melting and drying process a few times to make sure the old and new plastic have bonded really well, and there's no holes. Here it is after a few cycles and it's all nice and smooth. I tested that this holds water overnight.Cut mesh for reinforcing the interior plastic welding. Test fit and trim multiple times. I lightly (so that we don't undo our work on the other side) melted the inside of the end tank shell so that the mesh could be pressed into place. Make sure all the ports are unobstructed, and melt a lot of ABS filler in. We want to completely cover the stainless steel mesh and create a new "floor" that's thick and well bonded.On the passenger side, nothing really needs to be done. However I did shave the peg and rubber pad for just a bit more clearance.I took this opportunity to replace the input seal, output seal, and selector rod seal on the Getrag 240 transmission. Seems like lots of people struggle with this, but it's a pretty easy job if you've got some basic tools around.For the input seal, you unbolt the shaft sleeve first. On my particular Getrag 240, the input shaft sleeve was stuck in place very well and wouldn't move freely once unbolted. Take a MAP gas torch on low, and warm up the base of the sleeve. I used a wood hammer handle and dead blow to knock around the base, and then used just the dead blow itself inside the bell housing. With small strikes to slowly rotate the base, the seal finally broke after a minute of small movements. There's a nice groove you can use as a pry point to get the old seal out. I carefully used a long flat blade screw driver, but you need to be cautious here as to not gouge the seat where the seal goes.Before putting the new seal in, wrap the input shaft splines with some thick plastic. A ziploc freezer bag works great. I installed the sleeve loose, then hand tightened the small bolts in star pattern, and then went back around and torqued in star pattern as well. Sealed back up with the addition of some Elring Curil. I also drilled out the pivot point to accept one of the nice brass pivots.From the backThe output seal was definitely the easiest, but that's only because the trans is outside of the car. Pry out the locking ring. If you are gentle, you can reuse this. Then a deep thin walled 30 will remove the nut, the IE flange holding tool makes this a piece of cake.Pry out the seal (this one can be removed a few different ways) then clean the surfaces and start to set the new one in place. I had an aftermarket aluminum e36 rear spring perch that worked PERFECTLY for driving in the rear output shaft seal in.I just tapped around the circumference slowly with a dead blow hammer.I again used a tiny bit of Curil on the outside edge of the seal. Then some Curil to seal the output shaft splines and a bit of ATF on the sealing surface flange, used the deep 30mm to bump the flange in far enough for the nut to capture, then torqued into its final resting place. Don't forget the locking plate to finish this off!The selector rod joint is easily the most scary to do. There's just so little space between the sealing surface and the selector rod, and the seal is pretty stout. I found the absolute best way to go was this: At the top edge, use a tiny little flat head with the square edges sanded down and softened, to minimize the amount of damage it can do. Lightly tap it straight in, then once it starts deforming the seal's metal edge, start angling down. The seal should be crushing in and down.At the opposite side of it (180 degrees) Stab in a pick/pointed punch. You want to do this straight into the middle of the seal (not the edge like the other side). Once you've punctured through, you can swivel your pick to start prying outwards from the trans.Alternate the first and second steps here and it should come out with only two reps. Not much room to clean, but do your best, and then use a deep 15mm socket to drive in your new seal.
  9. One remaining if anyone would like it!
  10. While I am always up for polished aesthetics, the manual for the GPS speedo clearly states nothing should cover it at all to get signal. Ideally they want it mounted on the rooftop. (Which I am sure almost nobody is willing to do). If not, then with a clear view to the sky, only really obstructed by glass.
  11. Interesting... Still a lot of unknowns even though this hasn't been a new swap for 10 years or so. I'll try and just keep driving the struggle bus and update with all the details I find out when I'm done with the swap.
  12. Have a few extras of these GPS Sensor bases that I made for my Speedhut gauge sensor to sit on. Bolts right in place of the stock seatbelt warning pod. I painted mine satin black, the rest are unfinished so you can do whatever you like. This spot gets a clear view to the sky and you don't have to tape the dumb thing to the window or anything obnoxious like that. These are made from a 1/16" cold rolled steel so the sensor (which is magnetized) just snaps right onto the base. $5 and whatever shipping is to you (flat rate is $8.30 right now).
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