Getting ready for transmission work – safety check

[UpnorthMN]

My 2002 came to me with a bad 4 speed and am getting ready to pull it and replace it with a 5 speed.

 

Here is how I have my 2002 positioned on blocks and jack stands. The front is bearing on the jack stands on the frame rails, the extra two jack stands under the cross member in front are backups.

 

What else should I do to make it as safe as possible? Thank you in advance for the advice.

 

David

[2002#3]

Be sure to give the car a good hard shake in several directions.

If you use a transmission jack, do a trial run for correct car height:  Put the new transmission onto the jack, lower it ALAP, and make sure all rolls/fits under the car.  

[Hans]

Can you swap driveshaft without turning?

[tzei]

Support the engine so that it don’t kiss radiator etc.

[Hans]

9 minutes ago, tzei said:

Support the engine so that it don’t kiss radiator etc.

And maybe jamb dizzy . 

[Preyupy]

You would be better with the front tires on the blocks and the back on the axle stands.  Turning the driveline is needed to get to the bolts. 

[JohnS]

I have a pair of those Esco brand jack stands like yours and love them. 

[UpnorthMN]

Thank you everyone for the advice. Great catch on the blocks needing to move to the front.

 

 

[Mikesmalaga72]

IMHO.... May I suggest jack stands at the front and rear of the car? The wood is precarious.

[Hans]

4 hours ago, Mikesmalaga72 said:

IMHO.... May I suggest jack stands at the front and rear of the car? The wood is precarious.

I guess there some risk that the tires could move a bit. All bolted/nailed together looks solid, but I take your point.

Maybe revisit tire securing wedges and give it the push test. Or double up the 4x4s? Not much different from the metal drive on ramps.....

That said, I prefer jack stands with a U shaped saddle to grab the frame rails and rear cross member. Don't like those ones under front cross member.

Like harbor frt 3 ton Stands

 

 

Edited February 15 by Hans

[uai]

10 hours ago, Preyupy said:

You would be better with the front tires on the blocks and the back on the axle stands.  Turning the driveline is needed to get to the bolts. 

But you need to have the steering at full lock to get the Gearbox out.
I'd have two Jackstands in the front and two in the rear.
I remove Distributor and Radiator, but that's just me (set engine on cyl1 tdc first).

Edited February 15 by uai

[Henning]

The longwise mass center of these cars is short behind the front door gaps. So I would prefer to use the wooden blocks for the front after steering max to one side.

If you have got enough wood you could make one more block for one rear wheel and support the other side under the subframe mount with a stand. This way you can rotate the drive shaft to have better access to the guibo bolts.

 

If your wife is anxious you may lower the windows, line a chain through  the cabin and hook it up to the ceiling.

 

henn

Edited February 15 by Henning

[TobyB]

 

 

I find that 4 jack stands have yet to kill me, 40- some years later...

 

t

would not use more than 4, having watched dunnage walk itself out from under things.

[popovm]

If you aren't using the jack for the transmission you could also have that have jacked up to just below touching the center of either the rear or front subframe and then put your spare tire (inflated) under the sill on whichever side you are getting under the car. Possibly overkill but it's what I do. I actually haven't gotten all 4 wheels off the ground yet but need to soon to do the transmission fluid. 

[2002#3]

This safety discussion (like all safety discussions) is one of the better and more important discussions in a long time.  Thanks for all the serious and life-saving suggestions.