Radio Interferences with RPM and Blinkers

[jimk]

1 hour ago, ray_ said:

Older capacitors would tend to leak over time. Not sure if those qualify as "older."

 

Cheers,

Are these older than 55 😁

[Son of Marty]

20 minutes ago, jimk said:

Are these older than 55 😁

Do they get endless mailings from AARP?

[jimk]

32 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

there's more sound suppression devices on your car than I've ever seen.

That's where the Blaupunkt said to put them on the 2002.  The front wheel hub contact was not on my car but the rest of the kit was.

[ray_]

1 hour ago, jimk said:

Are these older than 55 😁

I mean, older than you! 

 

😁

[Chris_B]

I have to observe that your reading of +12.48V at your alt is sub par (may have nothing to do with your head unit noise). You might want to take the reading at the battery with the motor running. Should be more like += 13.5V with your motor running above idle. I trust you have not had a problem starting and running your motor? WRT to your head unit noise, what you might be experiencing is a ground loop. It is important that every ground in your sound system be made to the same point on the car (preferably, a strong connection to the chassis.)

 

If that doesn't work, there are a number of  products that can filter either high level or low level circuits, which I think have been mentioned in the post above.

[visionaut]

18 hours ago, jimk said:

19 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

there's more sound suppression devices on your car than I've ever seen.

That's where the Blaupunkt said to put them on the 2002. 

Are they supposed to all wire up on the bulkhead in para-serial like this? Is the coiled telephone handset wiring for dealing with the rotating axle caps?

 

How many ground locations are there? Divide and conquer isn’t for electrics…

 

Srsly I don’t believe that even @John76 can decipher what this all does. All that extra electrical stuff has gotta either turn the car into a early-style flux capacitor or into an un-earthly (pun intended) EMP pulsator…

 

Simplify grasshopper…

 

[tzei]

It is art in itself but

not nessesarly root cause for radio interference. Or could it?

Unplug all of em. Car should run - how in car audio entertainment system behaves?

[Chris_B]

These posts appear to be intended to be a bit facetious, but seriously you need to check for a ground loop to eliminate the noise you are experiencing.

[Dudeland]

Pm me your address and I will send out a filter that will fix your problem

[Mike Self]

In 54 years of 02 driving I've not experienced any interference on my FM band, only AM.  And I don't even have a capacitor on my alternator, the usual villain when there's "hash."  

 

Just out of curiosity, is the ground wire that runs from your alternator frame to the engine block in place, and in good shape?  Absent that wire, the alternator's ground path is pretty tenuous.  Might be worth checking.  

 

mike

[NickVyse]

On 8/29/2023 at 9:53 PM, stephers said:

 

There as also a ground cable kit that went between the hood and the main body of the car to help with noise suppression ( although, I am not so sure that this actually did anything )

 

Thanks, Rick

 

Like this..

 

[OldRoller]

On 8/30/2023 at 2:39 PM, Son of Marty said:

do you have another radio you could try?

The common denominator in this case is the radio, given all you have done so far to eliminate the noise. Try another and remove the possibility that the radio chassis is sub-par. 

 

Shielded speaker wires is another option, with the shield grounded to the chassis of the car. 

[66Vette]

Jorge:

 

There are two mechanisms that could be causing your radio interference problems.  One is conducted noise, which is noise coming in on the power lines of the radio.  The other is radiated noise.  In a car, the ignition and charging systems have sharp spikes in voltage and current.  These spikes can create high frequency components that your radio can receive just like a radio station.

 

To separate the two, run your radio (while still mounted in the car) off an external battery (use separate ground and +12V connections) with the car running.  If the noise disappears, you have a conducted noise problem and you can fix it with a power line filter.  (Take Dudeland up on his offer.)  Put the noise filter right at the radio, with the ground side connected directly to the radio chassis.

 

If it is a radiated problem, grounding is your friend, resistive spark plug wires and plugs, and maybe some additional shielding of the radio may help.

 

 

[Jorge Silva]

Hi all,

 

I did read your suggestions and during the last couple of days I was doing other tests to figure out the problem.

 

I have now disassembled the full center console so it is easier to work around.

 

I disconnected all the relays in the engine bay and other under the dash and the blinker and engine noise remained unaffected. 

 

I also disconnected the distributor cap and ignition coil. Here I couldn't start the engine but the blinker interference remained.

 

Then I unplugged the speaker from the radio and tried other speaker connected only to the radio, the noise remained.

 

I tried again to directly connect the radio to the battery with 2 independent cables, and as before, I noticed that the interference noise decreased a lot, didn't disappear but it was much better. With the radio volume in the minimum you can still hear the noise, but if I put the volume in the normal position, the interference is barely noticeable. I tried this with the radio outside and inside the car, same result.

 

I didn't have the chance to try other radio because I don't have one.

 

Strange thing (or at least for me it is strange) is that with the radio ground cable unplugged and the antenna plugged, the radio still works. That means the antenna is grounding the radio. Perhaps this is normal, I dont know.

 

Please note that the tests I did were mainly with the cassette audio in order to discard antenna interferences.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

[Jorge Silva]

On 8/31/2023 at 4:06 AM, Chris_B said:

I have to observe that your reading of +12.48V at your alt is sub par (may have nothing to do with your head unit noise). You might want to take the reading at the battery with the motor running. Should be more like += 13.5V with your motor running above idle. I trust you have not had a problem starting and running your motor? WRT to your head unit noise, what you might be experiencing is a ground loop. It is important that every ground in your sound system be made to the same point on the car (preferably, a strong connection to the chassis.)

 

If that doesn't work, there are a number of  products that can filter either high level or low level circuits, which I think have been mentioned in the post above.

 The engine runs great and starts immediately at cold or hot conditions. No problems here.

 

The battery voltage with the car running is within the recommended values and the voltage regulator was replaced some months ago because the original one was not limiting the voltage properly.