New member introduction, re-commissioning questions

[Waller]

Hi, my name is Walter and I have a 1973 in Riviera blue. It is remarkable mainly because 43 years ago I bought Christine from her first owner in 1978 and drove her to over 300,000 miles. As such I have her window sticker, purchase documents, owners manual, key fob, tool kit, etc.  She was my first car (not counting family cars) and I resolved to keep her until I retired. I parked her in 2010 because I lived in Boston and just didn't enjoy driving her in modern traffic. 

 

I'm retired now. Having moved to a more rural area, I am in the process of putting her back on the road. She runs fine, so I'm not planning on any work to the driveline.

 

Her body, brakes and her struts and springs have rusted a bit.

 

I'm going to need fenders, and one rocker (sill), Having looked around for a day, I think Restoration Design vs. oem is the cost effective answer assuming some level of skill in bumping metal. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I would replace the hood if I could find one, there's a wave in mine I cant get out. They don't seem to be available. 

 

I think I'll just refresh her oem brakes, I remember them being entirely capable, even impressive when fresh. Also I'm running tii steel wheels and her original hubcaps, so there is not much room. Please tell me if there is a no-brainer upgrade that fits in the stock wheels.

 

With 300,000+ miles, I'm wondering if I should replace my rusty springs. I wonder if the rust could create a stress riser that might cause them to fail? even if they don't fail, maybe I could improve the ride and handling without compromising either. I don't need her to go fast, I have other cars for that. Please let me know if there is good reason to replace the springs.

 

Any suggestions that don't involve engine swaps, lowering, crackle tunes or air suspension will be most appreciated!

 

Walter

Bunch of cars, motorcycles and sailboats

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[popovm]

Hi @Waller!

 

 Welcome from one newbie to another. 

I will also be needing body panels so I’ve also been researching sources. I’ve linked a couple more below. I have yet to verify the quality of these so do a search on the forum here (using google, google knows search better than forum software builders) before you buy fenders since the fit and finish of those will be really apparent. I would think you can buy sills anywhere and make them fit even if some of the dimensions are off. Of course, this Depends on how particular you are about getting close to original. 
 

https://www.jaymic.com/

https://www.wallothnesch.com
 

MVP Vintage Parts also makes body panels but the dealer they directed me to in the states is Ireland Engineering and IE is going through a transition period at the moment. I’ll let you know if I hear of another US source. 

My plan for my suspension is to replace the old strut inserts with Bilstein B6’s and keep the stock springs. My springs aren’t rusted. You could go the same route and just replace the strut inserts. If the rust is really bad on your springs and you want to stay stock springs/height, I am sure a few folks here have stock springs laying around after swapping them out for aftermarket. 
 

I can’t answer your brake question for certain. Someone will come along that knows the answer. 

 

Post some pics of the patient!

[2002iii]

Welcome, that's a long time and a lot of miles.

 

Pictures will help to determine what can be restored and what needs to be replaced.

 

You might want to post in the parts wanted section for a set of used good fenders, a hood and anything else your looking for. The rocker sill you'll probably want to buy a new one.

 

For the brakes I would suggest flexible stainless steel brake hoses and some quality brake pads.

 

I would also check all the rubber parts on the car.

 

Do lots of research and ask lots of questions. Good luck.

[Mike Self]

2 hours ago, Waller said:

I'm wondering if I should replace my rusty springs.

Unless they're badly pitted (noticeable after you either blast 'em or thoroughly wire brush 'em with a wheel) they're probably OK.  I've yet to see or even hear of a 2002 spring fail.  However, there are several after market spring sets that will lower the car a bit (1-1.5") and improve handling.  Some years ago I installed H&R progressive springs, Bilstein HD shocks (not sport, they're pretty stiff for street use) and larger sway bars (22mm front, 19mm rear) using urethane bushings in the sway bar mounts and links only.  Gives a nice ride and noticeably  better handling than stock.  

 

Good to see another long-time owner who's cherished is '02 for many years.  I too bought my '73 from its original owner in 1978 and still have it--but with "only" 267k miles.  And welcome to the FAQ fraternity/sorority.  

 

mike

[Dudeland]

Welcome to the clan, you are in good company here.   If looking for the stock feel, many folks insist on rubber suspension bushings, rather than urethane.  New bushings along with motor mounts may take some squeak and rattle out of it. 

 

When i picked up my car, the small plastic grommets at the end of the  door latch and lock actuator rods fixed some really annoying rattles. 

 

Stainless steel flexible brake lines are a must, just for safety.  Check the fuel line, chances are it is yellow and brittle. 

 

Led headlights and bulbs are a nice upgrade, but they do require a bit of fiddling. Some may argue that they are crap, but I really like the bright lights as a result.  I would avoid doing the ones in the dash, a bit of a pain and not terribly necessary. 

 

I suspect that you are used to setting up points, but if you get tired of them, put a pertronix or hot spark in and you won't need to fiddle with them again. 

 

Repack the CV's and replace the boots while you are there.  

 

Luckily there is a rebuild kit for the steering box in case yours has a lot of slop in it. There is a rubber coupler there that can get brittle.  I replaced my with a urethane one, and it just made things more harsh, stick to the oem rubber and you are fine. 

 

Refresh the rubber shifter  bits, I think Blunt sells a kit. It will make the shifter feel much better. Check the mount when you are in there.  Again use a rubber one,  the urethane is just noisy and I am not sure it gets you anything but more road noise. 

 

All of what I mentioned above without the steering box is $300-$400 all in. It will make the feel of the car so much better. It will take a bit of grunting, and a bunch of PB blaster, some threaded rod and PCV for removing the bushings, but it will be well worth it. 

 

If you wanted to "upgrade" anything from stock, front a rear sway bars (mine are from I.E) would be the one I recommend first.  Good for keeping the tires on the ground, especially under emergency situations. And it doesn't make things bone crushing.  Once you get it on the road, you can decide if it needs shocks. 

 

Searching the FAQ is your best friend.  99% of the answers are there.  if you are finding you are not getting a response on the forum, chances are it is because it is a question that has been answered 10 times before. 

 

l

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jgerock]

You can somewhat copy what I did to my 69 (now Riviera):

Swap stock suspension and brakes to (74) tii components

H&R springs

Bilstein HD shocks (front struts now are koni yellow)

Suspension Techniques 22/19 anti sway bars

All rubber bushings

[PaulTWinterton]

Just so you know.  OEM fenders are a much better fit.   Bodymen will tell you they are worth the cost.

[Waller]

Great responses, Thanks!

 

popovm, I look forward to sharing experiences, as we go through resto process. Is there a way to restrict google to the forum itself? That seems like a really valuable trick

 

2002iii given your thoughts and others, I may just repair the fenders I have, they aren't all that bad, and I am pretty good at fabrication.

 

Mike Self - cool to meet another 43 year owner! I think I will keep the car more compliant than you have done. Years ago I put in sway bars with urethane, and bilstein HD shocks. I tossed the shock within a year and tried KYBs. Tossed 'em. Went to HD sachs. Kept the sway bars, though. Love that you have a Topolino (or two?) Im a big fan of those and the TV1200. And the 850.

 

Dudeland , great tips! I knew about the door latch grommets, but a great tip for anyone who doesn't! What a difference. I DIDN'T know about the steering box rebuild kit, and that is very exciting! I have 3 or four steering boxes, and non of them are particularly precise. This could be huge, because I remember when I first drove BMWs and was amazed at the steering precision, and mine no longer has that. I think your aesthetic is similar to mine WRT ride. Have done a heavier front sway bar. I dont remember what I did in the rear.

 

jgerock I have tii wheels, and I think I changed out the front struts to tii or bavaria, I just can't remember...and Im not sure how to tell. Any other differences? Maybe give me some keywords to search for to find threads on this?

 

Paul I'll look into it. I've watched videos that show people fitting the aftermarket ones, and they look easy to fine tune. with a nip and tuck, a little weld, they seem to fit up nice. I'll do some more searching of the archives, especially  if I can figure out how to do it with google.

 

Thanks all!

Walter

 

 

 

 

[Waller]

JGEROCK, I found this using "&tbm=dsc"  appended to my google search which limits the search to forums in general (is that it, popovm?)

The tii model has the following differences over a regular BMW 2002:

1. 1972-1973 US 2002tii VINs begin with 276
2. 1974 US 2002tii VINs begin with 278
3. Kugelfischer mechanical fuel injection
4. Alternator mounted down low, under battery
5. Oil return line in block for injection pump, feed line in oil filter head
6. Larger brake booster
7. 23 mm master cylinder
8. 17.46 mm (11/16") diameter (rear) wheel cylinders
9. Larger 10.08 in (256 mm) diameter front brakes, larger calipers/pads
10. Larger front hubs and spindles
11. Boxed rear semi-trailing arms
12. Larger diameter exhaust manifold
13. Interior clock
14. “2002tii” emblem on rear body panel

I"m going to check my rotor diameter to see what I have.

 

Many years ago I parted a rust bucket tii, and may have moved those struts. (I was going to move the sunroof clip! I came to my senses. My brother in law took the engine. Sad, but it was a goner)

[Waller]

Im trying to post a picture:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CA2Gog88en7mE3679

[Mark92131]

Waller:

 

Welcome to the FAQ.  To post a picture, use the "choose files..." link at the bottom of the edit box for your post, select the photo on your computer and press the "Open" button.  The picture will be inserted in your post and will appear when you hit the "Submit Reply" button.  You can also drag and drop pictures directly into the edit box from your file manager.

 

Mark92131

Edited April 18, 2021 by Mark92131

[jerryasi]

I bought a couple non-OEM fenders on W&N, was lucky to sell them on this site for half what I paid. Thin metal poor stamping, was able to purchase a new OEM that had shipping damage for half price, couple hundred bucks, and had body man fix the other, OEM superior piece.