Valvoline VR1 synthetic or dino?

[uai]

for me it's Motul 300V Competition 15W50 https://www.motul.com/de/de/products/300v-competition-15w50--2

 

[Mike A]

Brad Penn break in 30 weight for 750-1000 miles. Mobil 1 15-50 has all the zddp needed and it’s under $5/qt

[Stevenc22]

ZR1 dino here.  Love the stuff. Change it annually since i dont drive 3000 miles in a year.

[jimk]

@Vicleonardo1 has it right about racing oils.  They are formulated for the track and are short on certain elements for occasional or daily use like rust inhibitors.  These cars are often stored for the winter months when moisture raises hell.

 

For a classic flat tappet engine get one made for it:

https://www.amsoil.com/p/z-rod-20w-50-synthetic-motor-oil-zrf/?=36101

or

https://www.amsoil.com/p/z-rod-10w-40-synthetic-motor-oil-zrd/?=36101

[Vicleonardo1]

Relax everyone! VR-1 is the new Shimmer! 

It's for Racing and The Street! 

 

https://www.nbc.com/saturday-night-live/video/shimmer-floor-wax/n8625

 

In all seriousness. You can use VR-1 for the track (if you wish) and everyday driving. Just change it in the appropriate intervals based on how you drive it. 

 

The Valvoline PRO-V line is for racing only. 

 

Edited July 28, 2020 by Vicleonardo1

[jp5Touring]

VR-1 in the 2002,  change annually at the least.  I use Synthetic Castrol,Liqui Moly in my e39's all good stuff I think.

[albatcha]

20 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

I posted this before. Really not much difference between the synthetic or Dino. Dino slight edge, but probably splitting hairs. 

Either is an excellent choice for our 2002's. 

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136304-What-oil-brands-offer-the-best-protection-***Good-read***

 

Actually Re-reading that post, based on the zddp levels and the first part of the article, I would use Dino for break in and switch to the synthetic.  

ZDDP at 1500 may be a bit too much for long term use. But I am no expert. 

 

I'm not sure if the post you linked to was posted originally by the one who goes as 540 RAT, but if you go to 540 RAT's blog it is more up to date with newer info.

 

https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/

 

They say this of the 20w50 vr1 oil:

 

"

67. 20W50 Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil, conventional = 97,677 psi
This oil claims high zinc/phos.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
It was tested Summer 2019. The psi value above, produced by this oil, came from testing it at the normal operating water-cooled engine test temperature of 230*F, which put it in the OUTSTANDING Wear Protection Category. But, this oil is way too thick for most any water-cooled engine. However, it is ideal for air cooled engines, which cannot control their oil temperatures well. And it is popular with air-cooled Harley Davidson Motorcycle Owners. So, for their benefit, I also tested this oil at the much higher test temperature of 275*F.

At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. But, this oil only had a very small 3% drop in capability. And even at that elevated temperature, it produced 94,850 psi, which still kept this much hotter and thinner oil in the OUTSTANDING Wear Protection Category.

I also tested this oil to find out its onset of thermal breakdown, which was an impressive 285*F."

[albatcha]

I don't know exactly how correct they are, but the whole blog page has a lot of interesting information. I used to use VR1 20w50 synthetic, but now I use 0w40 mobil-1 synthetic european car formula with the "fs" on the bottle year round in North Carolina, even when it's 100 degrees fahrenheit.  Oil pressure is a little lower than with 20w50 when hot, but never below the "necessary" amount of pressure at all RPMS. And engine temperature is similar or ever so slightly insignificantly lower, not water temp, oil temp and temp of the metal, so I believe that the oil flow is still plenty.

 

Synthetic oil is better, the people who say old car's need dino oil were putting the most modern oil available in their car in the 1970's, they just got stuck in their old habits while science, the industry, and other people moved on.

[AustrianVespaGuy]

So I've been using the Rotella T 15W-40 diesel oil due to the high ZDDP ever since I started breaking in my rebuilt engine.  I think it's 'fine,' but keep wondering if there's something better I should be using now.  I've been hesitant to dump VR1 in there because that's what I run in the E30 track car and holy crap is that stuff THICK!!  Takes like 3 full seconds for the oil light to go off after a cold start to get that molasses pumped through to all the galleys.  The Rotella on the other hand comes up to pressure <1s.  So while I'd love to know what the consensus is on the 'best' modern oil for the 2002 is, you'll need to do a little more to convince me that VR1 isn't TOO thick before I jump onto that bandwagon. . .

[2002Scoob]

AMSOIL 20w50 synthetic here. I digg it. Nothing to back that claim other than my car hasn't melted down. 

 

Less than 7k km's on the motor, and callin' BS on anybody who says their M10 doesn't consume oil. haha. 

 

Also had good success (meaning, didn't have a failure because of it) with running Castrol Classic 20w50 dyno, too.

Edited July 28, 2020 by 2002Scoob

[jimk]

1 hour ago, AustrianVespaGuy said:

Takes like 3 full seconds for the oil light to go off after a cold start to get that molasses pumped through to all the galleys.

How are your rod bearings doing for that 3 seconds?  They aren't getting much oil.

[AustrianVespaGuy]

1 hour ago, jimk said:

How are your rod bearings doing for that 3 seconds?  They aren't getting much oil.

Well, of course it's not all that grim as the main and rod bearings are some of the first places to see oil, but yeah, still not great for the camshaft up at the top of the head!  And it doesn't do this with more 'conventional' 10-40 oil, so I know it's due to how thick that VR1 is!

[mgben]

Liqui Moly Classic 20-50 for used motor, BMW RM European had decent price. 

Then I read some less than flattering info online, Bob the oil guy?

Will do VR-1 next.

Bought  dino VR-1 for my higher mile MGB, and used Brad Penn in MGC. and thinner Brad Penn in rebuilt MGB motor. 

I didn't know Rotella T had high ZDDP. 

 

[jimk]

3 hours ago, AustrianVespaGuy said:

Well, of course it's not all that grim as the main and rod bearings are some of the first places to see oi

You should sketch the path of oil to the rod bearings.  Out of the pump, up the main vertical galley.  to the engine horizontal galley then to some side ducts to the main bearings, then into the crank thru the main bearings, then finally to the rod bearings that have been spinning at probably 1000-1200 rpm for the 3 seconds.

Oil technology development has strived to  produced oils that have a high VI and flow good when cold, and users go out of their way to avoid them for the old technology.

[irdave]

9 hours ago, jimk said:

You should sketch the path of oil to the rod bearings.  Out of the pump, up the main vertical galley.  to the engine horizontal galley then to some side ducts to the main bearings, then into the crank thru the main bearings, then finally to the rod bearings that have been spinning at probably 1000-1200 rpm for the 3 seconds.

Oil technology development has strived to  produced oils that have a high VI and flow good when cold, and users go out of their way to avoid them for the old technology.

 

What are you running in the s14?