Valvoline VR1 synthetic or dino?

[mvliotta]

There is a head-spinning number of posts on oil type and vendors, which makes the decision on which oil to use post break-in quite confusing!

 

So some info first...

-Recently rebuilt bottom end with new pistons, rings, bearings, etc 

-Head was not touched and has less then 30k miles on it

-Broke in engine with 30 wt break-in oil for about 700 miles

-Plan on driving 3 seasons out of the year (near NYC), 2-3k miles/year

 

And will narrow things down a bit on next oil change. Want to go with Valvoline VR1.

 

My question is whether I should go with dino or synthetic? Planning on 20w-50. Some say synthetic too slippery for continued ring seating. Others say synthetic is a better engineered oil.  
 

What do you say?

Edited July 27, 2020 by mvliotta

[NYNick]

I say you're opening a can of worms. 

You're still my friend though.

[mvliotta]

30 minutes ago, NYNick said:

 

I say you're opening a can of worms. 

You're still my friend though.

 

This is a very diplomatic response....

Who are you? And what have you done with Nick?

[NYNick]

Ok fine. I'll revert back to NYNick mode.

 

The Canadian dollar is almost directly affected by the price of oil. When the price oil oil goes up, the Canadian dollar strengthens against the USD. I like to buy CAD when the Canadian dollar is weak. Therefore, if we use less Dino (which the entire world is doing lately), the price of oil goes down. Plus, it hurts those oil producing countries in the Middle East, which is always a bonus IMO. Based on that logic, I'd recommend using Synthetic.

 

Of course, I use Dino in all my German cars, so there's that.?

[Son of Marty]

Why not have a oil analysis done find out for sure if your rings have seated then take your pick.

[adawil2002]

Had my engine rebuilt in 2018. Break in 500 miles, changed oil adjusted valves. At 1,500 miles changed oil. Then changed again at 3,000 miles. Changed again at 5,000. Have only used Dino Valvoline VR1 20/50.

 

Have put 37,xxx miles on since the rebuild. Changing the oil excessively after every long trip whether it's 2K-4K miles. Oil usage is zero.   

[Vicleonardo1]

I posted this before. Really not much difference between the synthetic or Dino. Dino slight edge, but probably splitting hairs. 

Either is an excellent choice for our 2002's. 

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136304-What-oil-brands-offer-the-best-protection-***Good-read***

 

Actually Re-reading that post, based on the zddp levels and the first part of the article, I would use Dino for break in and switch to the synthetic.  

ZDDP at 1500 may be a bit too much for long term use. But I am no expert. 

Edited July 27, 2020 by Vicleonardo1

[jimk]

3 hours ago, adawil2002 said:

Oil usage is zero.   

The only time I believe 'zero' is when the drained oil volume is measured and compared against the volume originally filled.  I've yet to see any results, so to me 'zero' is an unproven number.

 

To add -- Andrew does have a good engine with no noticeable oil usage.

Edited July 27, 2020 by jimk

[rcf925]

Amsoil Makes a synthetic with Zinc, That's probably what I'm gunna run after I hit The 2500 mile mark

[Djthom]

I would recommend Liqui-Moly classic. It's available from Pelican or other places online. Another good option is the Driven oils which are the continuation of the old high zinc Brad Penn oils.  (PennGrade is supposedly the rebranding of Brad Penn but the formula changed as detailed on various porsche sites including LN Engineering).  

 

I used to use VR-1 but have moved away from it after someone pointed out it's a racing oil and meant to be changed after each race.  Supposedly it lacks some of the moisture scavengers and other ingredients that are needed in a longer term oil.  

 

 

[fastricky]

Vince you might consider running 10W40 for the break in and then going 20W50 thereafter. It's what SCR did/suggested when my motor was rebuilt. - Rich

[Vicleonardo1]

VR1 is for track and street. Standard oil change intervals for how you use your car.  (Racing vs Street) It has all the additives needed for a car that needs higher ZDDP levels. I wouldn't use it in a modern car with a catalyst. 

Contrary to the link I supplied above, the estimated ZDDP levels may be just a little lower, but in a perfect range. 

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Public/Document/18452/18bdee61-0a7e-e711-9c10-ac162d889bd3/a61538b4-0cbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

 

But dude, it is a free country. Do what you like. 

Cheers! 

[mvliotta]

17 hours ago, NYNick said:

Ok fine. I'll revert back to NYNick mode.

That’s more like it!

 

10 hours ago, fastricky said:

Vince you might consider running 10W40 for the break in and then going 20W50 thereafter.

Thanks Rich. Cheers!

 

15 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

Either is an excellent choice for our 2002's

 

10 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

It has all the additives needed for a car that needs higher ZDDP

Read up on this a bit more. Liking dino VR1. Will go with that. Thanks!

[fastricky]

8 minutes ago, mvliotta said:

That’s more like it!

 

Thanks Rich. Cheers!

 

One of my favs thanks Vince! ??

 

[Conserv]

Vince,

 

When the ‘76’s engine was rebuilt in 2012, Korman recommended Dino for at least the first 10,000 miles, saying that synthetic oil, used early, could stop or slow the break-in process. 10,000 miles was chosen with an abundance of caution in mind; it’s certainly not a hard-and-fast line. After 10,000 miles, either was fine in their view.
 

I’m only 5,000 miles in — the car was away for three years post-build for its Big Re-Paint and another six months at the BMW CCA Foundation — but I’ll probably stick with Dino, 20W50, after I reach 10,000 miles.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve