No Spark .....help resuscitate my 02 pls...

[AirDoc]

2002 Troubleshooting Guru's ......I need your assistance please

 

FLEX (my 76 02) has randomly stopped running....and ...well...I'm stumped.

 

Initial Status (ran over 800 miles in this configuration..no issues) - Smog Wiring removed, 008 Distrib with Pertronix .....One morning...warming the car up to go to a Cars & Coffee a few months ago....the car just quit running while idling in the garage.

 

The car has New Battery & Battery cables inclusive of the ground to the block - all clean. I am getting fuel..no issue there.

 

So...maybe the Pertronix was fried....I replaced with a Hot Spark version. Trying to crank....the car attempted to fire for about 2 seconds....then nothing

 

When you cant figure things out...change stuff.....Literally all ignition components replaced....put a 002 Distributor in with New/Correct Points, Condenser, Cap, Rotor, put new plugs, new wires, new coil.

 

Verified rotor turning, checked power to coil, checked internal resistance of coil ...recleaned all connections....all good.

 

Car will not give any spark..... no spark from HT Lead present.

 

The quest to run by 02/02/2002 is my goal....any help is greatly appreciated.

[adawil2002]

Could have burned out the Pertronix if not running 3 ohms of resistance. 

Could be bad condenser out of the box.

Points correctly gapped?

Is the distributor possibly rotated 180°?

 

How old is the coil?

[Schnellvintage]

Is the resistor wire still installed and with what coil are you using...? Proper ground from battery/frame to engine??
Fwiw



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[TobyB]

Test first- you need to see if you have switched ground

at the negative coil terminal.  You can do it

with a small light bulb- unhook the coil negative,

and wire in an indicator lamp, dash bulb, something like

that that draws 3-5 watts.  It should blink on and off

when you crank.

 

When that doesn't happen-

Time for a set of points.   

I bet both your electronic modules are toast.

 

t

 

[halboyles]

Check continuity on the wire (black usually) from the coil negative to the condenser.  No connection, no sparky.

[AirDoc]

2 hours ago, adawil2002 said:

Could have burned out the Pertronix if not running 3 ohms of resistance. 

Could be bad condenser out of the box.

Points correctly gapped?

Is the distributor possibly rotated 180°?

 

How old is the coil?

 

Points correctly gapped and verified to not be sticking

Distributor oriented correctly - had a buddy double check with me

Coil is new - both old coil and new coil have been tried to no avail.

Condenser - tried with old and new condenser....then again...both could be bad

 

thx for the input

[AirDoc]

1 hour ago, Schnellvintage said:

Is the resistor wire still installed and with what coil are you using...? Proper ground from battery/frame to engine??
Fwiw



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Using Blue Coil with internal resistor.  the old one and new one are the same

Ground - yes, Battery/Frame/Engine - removed the wires, cleaned them also....they are new.

 

thanks

[AirDoc]

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

Test first- you need to see if you have switched ground

at the negative coil terminal.  You can do it

with a small light bulb- unhook the coil negative,

and wire in an indicator lamp, dash bulb, something like

that that draws 3-5 watts.  It should blink on and off

when you crank.

 

When that doesn't happen-

Time for a set of points.   

I bet both your electronic modules are toast.

 

t

 

 

I like this bulb check...Let me scrounge some stuff up and see if I can check. Thanks for the input

[AirDoc]

1 hour ago, halboyles said:

Check continuity on the wire (black usually) from the coil negative to the condenser.  No connection, no sparky.

 

I just checked continuity in that circuit again....it's all good....hmm.....still thinking.

['76mintgrün'02]

The square tail light cars have a resistor wire feeding the coil.  It replaced the external ceramic coil on the ealier roundier cars.  The wire looks like a speaker wire, with a clear jacket that's usually yellowed with age.  The wire is spliced into the loom at the firewall, just behind the distributor.  If you are using a blue coil, you do not want to add the resistor wire to it.  You can dig out that splice and take full 12V from there and run another wire to the coil, to bypass the resistor wire.  I'd leave the resistor wire in place though, in case you ever want to run a black coil.  Assuming the resistor wire is still good.

 

Which plugs are you running?  Resistor plugs + R5 rotor + resistor wire + blue coil = too much resistance.  (Toby even says so).  Problems usually arise at higher rpm though, so I've read.  You have something else to contend with, it seems.

[jimk]

Is there 12v at the coil positive with key on?  It will be 12v resistance wire or not.  No 12v, chase for the open connection/circuit.

[ray_]

2 hours ago, jimk said:

Is there 12v at the coil positive with key on?  It will be 12v resistance wire or not.  No 12v, chase for the open connection/circuit.

 

 

Wal Mart has digital volt meters for about $10. 

['76mintgrün'02]

12 minutes ago, ray_ said:

Wal Mart has digital volt meters for about $10. 

 

Innova built a digital volt meter into their $100 timing light.   

 

 

and variable advance and a dwell meter and a tachometer...

all in one handy little tool box that fits under the seat in your 2002.

My car never leaves home without it!

Tom

[airborne85]

Maybe try replacing the spark plug dist/coil wire.........The one that goes from distributor to coil......funnier things have happened

 

 

ira

[Schnellvintage]

Is there no spark when cranking only?
Is there 10.5-12v at positive side of coil in the run position?


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