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Guibo Bolts Loosening


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22 hours ago, jgerock said:

The replacement BMW giubo mounting hardware includes 17mm (wrench size) bolts and 16mm (wrench size) locking type hex nuts that are slightly deformed when examining the outer edge.  There is a specific term for these nuts - cannot recall what they are at the moment.

 

 

elliptical offset nuts, ✓ 

centerlock nuts,

toplock nuts and

partially depitched (Philidas) nuts

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I would replace the guibo, use BMW hardware and install in the recommended orientation. I just went through replacement and thought it was the worst project I have done on my car. Wouldn’t want to repeat. I also marked the nut locations relative to bolt to visually see any movement from tight position.

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I'm not a fan of changing the guibo myself, because there are 8 bolts (or 6 if you have 5-speed), and only one or two can be easily accessed at a time with wrenches (not ratchets).  So, I have to keep getting out from under the car to roll it back and forth so I can get to more bolts, or jack up the entire rear-end and spin the driveshaft more easily.  But then you have to keep setting and releasing the parking brake so you can get a good grip on the bolts without the shaft spinning.

It's mostly just annoying and uncomfortable for me.  

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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^ Yup. Car needs to be lifted so drive shaft can be turned to access the various bolts. Is a little bit of a pain. Probably would be nice if you had a helper sitting in the car to pull and release the parking brake.

1976 BMW 2002 Chamonix. My first love.

1972 BMW 2002tii Polaris. My new side piece.

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 With the car jacked up on both ends I use a long 17mm box wrench on the bolt and let it jam up against the floor pan just on the left of the shifter support bracket when loosening the nut no parking brake involved.

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

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Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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18 hours ago, Stevenc22 said:

Never said anything about using generic bolts or nuts, just that you need to have some sort of mechanical means of locking the nut to the bolt. Locking nut or loctite. I would never use a generic bolt for this application.

 

Hey Steven,  Sorry again, I was referring to myself :blink: when mentioning using generic stuff.  Just trying to enlighten the OP with possible mistakes, factory procedure and the best hardware to use.

 

On 7/1/2019 at 7:16 AM, jgerock said:

locking type hex nuts that are slightly deformed when examining the outer edge.

 

My last purchase from the dealer have fingers on the outboard side of the nut to drag on the threads.  I guess they needed to re-invent the wheel one more time.

1470590784_GuiboLocknuts.jpg.7f628f55b9837abc4615069193e7a307.jpg

 

73 Inka Tii #2762958

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9 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

 With the car jacked up on both ends I use a long 17mm box wrench on the bolt and let it jam up against the floor pan just on the left of the shifter support bracket when loosening the nut no parking brake involved.

 

Yeah, I've tried it that way too.  I can get more steady force if brake is on and shaft is held firm, though.  I'm highly skilled at loosening those bolts up so I need all the help I can get, hah.     

The good thing about tightening them is that its pretty much impossible to break the bolts or threads by overtightening them, and if you did, you could just pop it out and put in another.  So, I get shaft firmly in place and a full arm strength on both wrenches.  

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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Just have to add this one more tip that makes life soooo much easier.  The guibo is slightly oversize.  Not sure of the reason but it makes it difficult to feed the bolts through if you are re-installing your existing quibo.  New guibos have a compression strap around the circumference.

I bought a plumbing hose clamp to re-compress the quibo for removal and replacement. Tightening it around the guibo allows the bolts to slide in and out without a fight.  Just have to remember to remove it before driving the car.

DSC02378fx3.jpg.77b8ccb691f54675ad19d3279b7e8285.jpg

 

And one more thing... NEVER USE GENERIC BOLTS like I did in this picture.

 

 

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73 Inka Tii #2762958

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This thread is timely as I'll be replacing the guibo and driveshaft on my '74 over this upcoming "holiday" weekend.  Thanks for all of the great tips guys.  Luckily I already sprung for the proper BMW bolts and locknuts and also for a BMW branded guibo (which wasn't cheap).  I just hope that the output flange on my transmission didn't get buggered up during the guibo explosion.  I know the flange on my driveshaft is toast.  ?

'73tii Inka 🍊

'74tii Fjord 🏄‍♂️

 

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