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Everything posted by Danz3

  1. Car is sold. Now to start looking for my next project.
  2. Update. I think I have a buyer for the car. Unfortunately he’s in California and I’m in Pennsylvania. I had a PPI done here locally and he’s satisfied that the car is as described. Any advise on a safe way to complete the transaction?
  3. I wont be showing at Shadyside but will be attending. Hope to see you at the PVGP
  4. Selling my 1974 Tii 2781168 all numbers matching car. The car was purchased from the original owner in 2013. I have service history from new including all service stickers from the BMW dealer through all the parts I have added over the past 6 years. The car is in its original Riviera color but was repainted in 1996. I have done much to preserve the car. Front and rear suspension has been updated, front brake calipers rebuilt, rear brakes updated with new backing plates, cylinders, shoes and drums. New master and slave cylinder with SS hose. The interior was refreshed with new carpets and everything else cleaned and refreshed. The dash shows no cracks. The car is mechanically ready to drive anywhere at anytime. The motor was professionally rebuilt in 1994 at 89K miles, receipts included. The current mileage is about 125K so the motor has about 36K on the rebuild. All hoses, electrics replaced and the distributor rebuilt/recurved by Advanced Distributors in 2019, O2 sensor added in 2019 so the car is properly tuned. New rear seals in the transmission, guibo with BMW hardware in 2019. The paint shows well and the trim is generally good. There are defiantly some blemishes that are present but it adds to the patina. People mistake the car as original paint etc. Things that still need done; door seals, clock repair (ran for 6 years after I repaired but now has stopped), windshield (some delamination in corners). Hagerty "good" valuation is $27.6K so I'm looking to sell near that price but am open to reasonable offers. If you are in the Pittsburgh area the car will be at the Vintage Gran Prix July 20-21. I would like the car to go to an enthusiast and I'm hoping to sell locally but will consider working with any buyer.
  5. I had a similar idle issue. The issue was fouled plugs due to a rich condition. Cleaned the plugs, added O2 sensor and properly tuned the car. Now runs better than it has since I’ve owned it. Now Idles smooth.
  6. I would replace the guibo, use BMW hardware and install in the recommended orientation. I just went through replacement and thought it was the worst project I have done on my car. Wouldn’t want to repeat. I also marked the nut locations relative to bolt to visually see any movement from tight position.
  7. I had a similar issue with my 74. Take a look at any slip in the linkages especially between the gas pedal to the pivot on the firewall. Once I took out slop I was able to properly adjust AFR.
  8. Finally got a chance to drive the car after loosening the exhaust connections and transmission bracket and replacing the muffler hangers. Sound is gone. Not sure what causes the sound but it’s gone.
  9. I did have the down pipe off. I just got done loosening the transmission hanger and re tightening. It didn’t seem to move but who knows. I’ll let you know.
  10. I will check tonight when I check the exhaust system to be sure.
  11. I believe the tires are fine. Relatively new but worth a look.
  12. Thanks for the quick response. I did that first. Shook exhaust and did take out slop by tightening the worn rubber hanger with some rubber. I will verify again just to be sure.
  13. I searched extensively and found a couple suggestions but am not sure they will address my current issue. Over the winter I replaced the rear transmission seals and guibo. During installation I was sure to verify driveshaft, output flange alignment etc. I even made an alignment tool to verify driveshaft alignment. The differential was loosened and moved rearward as suggested. The sound is like the sound you get when opening the windows of a modern car when the air reverberates in the cabin. There is no odd vibrations or metallic sounds. It occurs at 25-30 mph weather in gear or coasting down hill. One observation is that it seems to improve with time. After a long drive it is much better. My thought is that it may be exhaust related. The rubber hanger at the rear is worn out so I needed to add a rubber spacer to take up the slop, new part ordered. I did find a short post about the transmission exhaust hanger and binding but haven’t checked that yet. Any thoughts appreciated.
  14. Snorkel or no snorkel on a Tii. Who cares.
  15. I searched and read just about everything regarding warm up regulator adjustment but can't seem to find a solution to my issue. Just some background. I have the car running really well. Valves adjusted, distributor rebuilt, dwell set, timing set, AF good from idle, cruise and WOT. The only thing I can't seem to figure out is the warm up regulator. Here's the situation, The car starts and idles fine at cold start, AF 10-11. The car drives fine while it warms up. As the car nears full warm it runs very lean 18+ and stalls when stopping and returning to idle. Once it is fully warm the car runs and idles just fine. Has anyone mapped the AF across the warm up cycle? I've set the regulator to the recommended procedure but this is the best I can get without getting really rich at startup.
  16. I'm looking for a VDO windshield washer bottle to replace my leaking unit.
  17. Finally got to drive the car after winter projects of transmission seals, install rebuilt distributor and O2 sensor. I drove to our local cars and coffee and it ran well but very lean at highway cruise. 17 ish. Got home and rechecked and adjusted the timing, moves the cam in the tuna can just a mm nearer the setting hole and adjusted the idle AF mixture. Idle Cruise about 60 Can’t say enough good about having the O2 sensor. Best improvement for money that I wish I had done sooner.
  18. After I posted that I realized how dumb that was. Just happy its back to a good place now. Looking forward to spring to get it right.
  19. It may sound worse on the video. I just adjusted the valves last year.
  20. Yes it is. It was checked at Advanced when I had the distributor rebuilt. I will swap the new part back in once its running the way I want and see if it is indeed part of the issue.
  21. Update. Checked the plug wires and order, again. No issue. Changed cap and rotor to old known functioning parts. A bit better but not right. I did notice that I assembled the rubber coupling between the air box and the intake wrong. There was a gap at the underside of the connection. Fixed that and it's much better. Not sure if I got lucky or it was a combination of bad "new" parts and lean condition. Interestingly even though it appeared to run really rich my O2 gage read lean. That would account for the leak in the intake. Not perfect but once the salt is gone on the roads I can properly warm it up and set timing, AF, etc. So for now happy. IMG_2289-1.mov
  22. Finally back at the car. Verified TDC and distributor alignment. Timing sprocket mark aligned, rotor at notch and flywheel mark for TDC visible. Am I missing anything here? Onto simple things like wires etc.
  23. I’m thinking it’s wires as well. Just panicking for no reason. I’m planning on checking order for a third time, checking to see that the plugs are getting spark and replacing new cap and rotor with some “known good” spares.

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