m2 died while driving...

[Doug Riparetti]

1 hour ago, mlytle said:

LOL!  CARBS...barely controlled fuel leaks....

 I have almost 27,000-miles with my set up, I’ve only been on a flatbed one time, that was because I broke the rear end.

 

You show me someone else out there who has that many miles on there S14 powered “02”, an as trouble free as mine?

 

Chuckle all you want.....

 

49 minutes ago, Simeon said:

 

That doesn’t matter if you are always at WOT ?

Edited March 21, 2019 by Doug Riparetti

[COOP]

Of course, the ultimate is a 2.5L stroker S14. It ain’t cheap but it is oh-so-satisfying to have the torque that’s missing from the 2.3L, not to mention gobs more power. I’ve driven both, back-to-back, and it’s literally night & day.

 

COOP

[Ian]

Actually, the S14 fuel injection is plenty reliable.  I have about 20,000 miles on my S14 that I dropped into my 2002, as both a daily driver and track car.  I replaced a Korman Stage III engine that while a hoot to drive, did not  make big power until over about 5000 rpm, and spit raw gas out the tailpipe on cold days.  In contrast, the S14 feels more powerful across a wider rpm band, and is plenty peppy for a light 2002.  And the fuel injection starts up every time without drama.  It's true the FI doesn't have quite the sound of dual side-draft webers, but the CF airbox gives a pretty visceral replacement noise.  

 

To get back to the original post, the S14 should feel terrific in the 2002.  It has more torque than the m10, so should feel great running around town, and when it comes on-cam it really pulls.  You'll never confuse it with an LS engine, but the S14 has a charm all its own that is strangely addictive.  It does sound like you've got a fuel deliver problem, and plenty of suggestions have been offered up.  In addition, have you checked your fuel injectors for spray?  After sitting awhile these injectors will get gummed up and won't flow enough fuel in a decent pattern.  You can have them cleaned and brought back to spec by a number of companies; I've used Marren and also RC Engineering who did a great job for about $125.

 

 

Edited March 21, 2019 by Ian

[COOP]

Well said Ian! As one of the very first people who performed this conversion (and an inspiration to many here, including me), you definitely have plenty of wisdom to bestow.  I too have over 20K miles on the S14 in my ‘73 tii and have found it to be extremely reliable, especially the F.I. system.

 

Not only is the performance and balance of the engine magical in a 2002, but it’s also special  every time I open the hood to think of its illustrious history (Paul Rosche homologation masterpiece, winningest in the history of DTM, etc).

 

COOP

[ray_]

8 hours ago, Doug Riparetti said:

 I have almost 27,000-miles with my set up, I’ve only been on a flatbed one time, that was because I broke the rear end.

 

You show me someone else out there who has that many miles on there S14 powered “02”, an as trouble free as mine?

 

Chuckle all you want.....

 

 

329DC355-67DB-475E-9FF8-F541072D5556.MOV

 

Mine's not been towed but once in the past dozen years, 32k miles. And that was when a water pump hose ruptured.

 

Cheers, 

[jimk]

8 hours ago, Doug Riparetti said:

You show me someone else out there who has that many miles on there S14 powered “02”, an as trouble free as mine?

I have nearly 20k miles since 2013 install with Haltech Elite, LS1 ignition coils, sequential fuel and ignition.  No stoppages.

Edited March 21, 2019 by jimk

[ray_]

7 hours ago, COOP said:

Of course, the ultimate is a 2.5L stroker S14. It ain’t cheap but it is oh-so-satisfying to have the torque that’s missing from the 2.3L, not to mention gobs more power. I’ve driven both, back-to-back, and it’s literally night & day.

 

COOP

 

I dunno. Maybe the ultimate is 2.7L now. But I don't plan to find out.

 

?

[jimk]

To check fuel, route the return from the fuel pressure regulator to a container with a hose, power the pump and the flow should be about 2 liters per minute if you have the correct pump.  Engine fuel use is close to 1 liter per minute on the stock 2.3L engine at WOT 7K rpm.  Need allowance for filter clogging with attendant flow loss.

My engine consumes 160 gms air / min at those conditions and 97 kPa barometric, figure fuel volume consumption for sizing purposes at 12.5: A/F ratio and 737 gms fuel / liter.

Edited March 21, 2019 by jimk

[Doug Riparetti]

 Let me make a clarification, that’s almost 27,000-mles since I got my car back on the road on the 11th of December, 2017.

[COOP]

27 minutes ago, ray_ said:

 

I dunno. Maybe the ultimate is 2.7L now. But I don't plan to find out.

 

?

 

2.7L does sound saucy! My recollection, however, is that Dinan Engineering briefly offered this option back in the early ‘90s but ran into big-time reliability issues (too much stroke = kaboom).

 

COOP

[Mike Self]

On 3/20/2019 at 12:49 PM, irdave said:

Pulled the fuel pump fuse to turn on the ignition without the fuel pump.  Went to put the fuse back in, because I didn't remember if the pump was turning on, blown fuse.  New fuse, immediately popped with the key.  So likely a wiring issue- hopefully anyways- it's running on a tii pump. 

Dave, what year is your car?  If it has the seat belt warning light atop the dash (mid-72 and later), the associated wiring for that warning light goes through fuse 11, which is the fuse that powers the electric fuel pump on a tii.  The seatbelt warning wiring (the wiring to the buckle and in the seat) can short out, causing fuse 11 to blow.  And...that seatbelt wiring isn't on the factory shop manual wiring diagram.  I found that out the hard way when fuse 11 kept blowing.  You might check the underside of the fuse box and compare the wiring you find with what's in the diagram.  The seatbelt wiring is the one that doesn't show up in the diagram. 

 

Hopefully for you it's as simple as that.

 

mike

[irdave]

18 minutes ago, mike said:

Dave, what year is your car?  If it has the seat belt warning light atop the dash (mid-72 and later), the associated wiring for that warning light goes through fuse 11, which is the fuse that powers the electric fuel pump on a tii.  The seatbelt warning wiring (the wiring to the buckle and in the seat) can short out, causing fuse 11 to blow.  And...that seatbelt wiring isn't on the factory shop manual wiring diagram.  I found that out the hard way when fuse 11 kept blowing.  You might check the underside of the fuse box and compare the wiring you find with what's in the diagram.  The seatbelt wiring is the one that doesn't show up in the diagram. 

 

Hopefully for you it's as simple as that.

 

mike

 

Thanks Mike.  It's a '76.  I need to post a picture of the rat's nest of wiring.  It's a lot of the reason for switching to the stand alone ecu- to get rid of all of this extra wire.

[tzei]

63000 km on my car with S14 (since 2006) and no issues with oe efi so i’d say it does its job. Towed or flatbeded - never.

[irdave]

And that's after I've started to clean it up...

 

My car shows fuse 12 for the fuel pump with a green/white wire. In the trunk I've got 12v between the + side of the battery and the green/white wire coming from the fuse box / 3 pole connection- so I'm thinking the g/w wire is grounded hard somewhere along the way...

[Einspritz]

the Green / White wire should be in its own sleeve all the way back to the trunk, so it is unlikely a short along the way.......check the resistance / continuity with LOOONG test leads from the fuse box to the trunk to see if there is a short....