Exhaust header nuts

[MildSeven]

From memory, I currently have a mix match of nuts holding my exhaust header on, I didn't want to go through the hassle of removing it until I'm ready to put on my new IE header on.

 

I need some help... I think the proper nuts are copper, but what size/thread? I'm a little embarrassed that I wasn't able to find the answer on my own, Google has got me a little confused.

 

Can someone help me, so that when I walk in to a shop I know what to ask for?

 

The thread size and nut head size.

 

Thanks,

Anthony

[NYNick]

Realoem is your friend.

[zinz]

or Blunt...

 

https://www.blunttech.com/products/12614887

 

or Ireland, since you're buying their header...

 

http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/manifoldstuds.html

 

 

Ed

[MildSeven]

thanks guys.

I want to be able to walk in to a shop here and buy it to avoid waiting on shipping from US.

 

on Real OEM it has: M8 SW12

 

I also found 8x1.25 non flanged

 

 

[TobyB]

Hold da phone. 

 

The BMW nuts have these nice big flanges, which are great

until you get into a tight header jam,

and then they suck.  

 

The VW crowd figured this one out for us- on ePay, if not other places,

there are vendors selling 11mm brass(I think) hex rod drilled and tapped to 8x1.25.

They sell them as 'header nuts' or something equally inventive...

 

It works great- the difference is significant, when you add the size savings of the nut

AND the 1/4" drive socket to get on top of it.  Get an 11mm socket with a built- in universal,

grind it down to the minimum it takes to get on 'em, and all of a sudden headers are 

easy to pull and reinstall.  And the solid brass seems to stay tight ok, if you check them 

once or twice after 1st installation.

 

Honestly, usually you only need one or three, depending on how 

your Big Tube headers are built.

 

hth

 

t

 

[MildSeven]

35 minutes ago, TobyB said:

The VW crowd figured this one out for us- on ePay, if not other places,

there are vendors selling 11mm brass(I think) hex rod drilled and tapped to 8x1.25.

They sell them as 'header nuts' or something equally inventive...

 

Thanks!

 

I believe I have a couple of nuts like this (currently holding the header on), I remember using different combination wrenches to get the job done.

 

another question, I should put copper anti-seize on the studs and on the exhaust sleeves, where the stainless sleeve slips on the stainless pipe? ...secured by band clamps

 

 

[TobyB]

Don't think I ever did.  I relied on the copper nuts.  Stainless, I would, but it's mostly grease, it'll burn off in about 15 minutes.  Can't hurt, tho.

 

t

 

[MildSeven]

3 hours ago, TobyB said:

Don't think I ever did.  I relied on the copper nuts.  Stainless, I would, but it's mostly grease, it'll burn off in about 15 minutes.  Can't hurt, tho.

 

t

 

 

thanks Toby.

 

one last one, I haven't in the past but, should I use any sealant on the exhaust gasket?

Edited May 1, 2018 by MildSeven

[FB73tii]

I like those 11mm brass nuts for the intake side, got some from Ireland Engineering several years ago. For exhaust I use a 10mm head locking jet nut. I get them from Pegasus, called MJET. For the big Stahl header I had to grind the flange off a few jet nuts due to interference with the primary tube weld. I had installed the nut without doing this, and a few days later noticed an exhaust stud had broken all on its own, just sitting there. This was because the flange of the nut was overlapping the weld, causing uneven loading. Also need to use two shortened studs for this header. --Fred

 

[TobyB]

I never have.  But I don't have a 100% airtight sealing history, either...

 

t

 

[halboyles]

Doghouse Repair is a very inexpensive source for the 11mm brass and steel nuts.

 

https://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/3136/43-6051-exhaust-or-intake-nut-11mm-custom-copper-brass-tall/

 

https://www.doghouserepair.com/store/item/3137/b2-5052-0-exhaust-or-intake-nut-set-11mm-custom-steel-tall-usa-bugpack-8-pc-empi/

[MildSeven]

thanks everyone!

[its55]

Resurrecting this old post ... does anyone see any reason why these copper exhaust nuts should not work well?

 

Exhaust Nut Flange Class 8 Steel Copper 12mm Wrench Special - BelMetric

BELMETRIC.COM

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Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies nationwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, Time-Sert kits & more.

 

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

On 11/13/2022 at 9:54 AM, its55 said:

does anyone see any reason why these copper exhaust nuts should not work well?

 

just this

 

On 5/1/2018 at 1:16 PM, FB73tii said:

For the big Stahl header I had to grind the flange off a few jet nuts due to interference with the primary tube weld.

 

That style nut worked fine on my manifold.  I don't have a header.

 

EIDT--oops.  I used the style in the photo below this post, with the weird little slit in the nut to keep it from backing off.  No flange.

Edited November 15, 2022 by '76mintgrün'02

[AustrianVespaGuy]

Sorta already answered, but weighing in anyway.  To keep things simple for you, especially if it's been a while since the old hardware has been apart, $20 plus some loctite gets you a brand new set of studs (WITH allen head sockets to make installation/removal extra easy) and correct/easy clearance copper nuts:

Stud & Copper Nut for Exhaust Manifolds – M10/M20/M30 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI

WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM

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Each

 

Edit: While you're at it if you've got another $20 bill to spare, I personally REALLY like the exhaust gasket with built-in heat shield flap to protect the plug wires. . .

Heat Shield / Exhaust Gasket – M10 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI

WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM

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Each

 

Edited November 14, 2022 by AustrianVespaGuy