Ran When Parked.

[irdave]

And what are you doing awake right now?

[2002Scoob]

1 hour ago, irdave said:

And what are you doing awake right now?

 Hah! I live in Germany, it's 5:40 PM.

 

I'm not convinced it's the dizzy. 

 

How I'm testing for spark is putting the ignition in RUN, a spark-plug wire directly onto the the coil, then tapping the plug to the block (ground) which should cause a spark to gap, and it's not... so the dizzy isn't even in the equation.

 

At first I thought it pointed to the coil, but now I'm thinking grounds or some other source of resistance in the equation... 

Edited March 29, 2018 by 2002Scoob

[2002Scoob]

1 hour ago, irdave said:

And what are you doing awake right now?

Also, isn't the bigger question 'what are you doing awake right now?'

 

[2002Scoob]

Perhaps the only suspicious connection I can find...



An old fatigued + spade connector for the coil...


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[adawil2002]

That's probably it, check all the spade connectors.

[2002Scoob]

Think so? able to deliver enough juice to power up the dizzy, but not enough to throw spark?

 

We'll see. Gunna cut it back, clean, and install a new end. All the others are dialed. 

 

I hate fiddly electrical. 

 

 

[Simeon]

Your test method doesn’t sound quite right. The coil sparks by opening the points and cutting off the current to the coil. The charged field then collapses and the rapid change of voltage then sparks. 

 

I would try holding the plug to the block and cranking. This way the 123 will be turning on and off and throwing a spark if it works. If that doesn’t work then a grounded piece of wire momentarily held to the coil negative terminal and then removed will simulate the ‘points’ opening and closing while the plug is similarly held to the block. This would rule out the coil (I don’t think it is the coil). 

[ray_]

14 minutes ago, Simeon said:

Your test method doesn’t sound quite right. The coil sparks by opening the points and cutting off the current to the coil. The charged field then collapses and the rapid change of voltage then sparks. 

 

I would try holding the plug to the block and cranking. This way the 123 will be turning on and off and throwing a spark if it works. If that doesn’t work then a grounded piece of wire momentarily held to the coil negative terminal and then removed will simulate the ‘points’ opening and closing while the plug is similarly held to the block. This would rule out the coil (It's never the coil). 

 

Fixed that for you:)

[VWJake]

I third the motion that you need to ground the spark plug/coil wire and ground/then break the contact on the neg side of the coil(with key on and confirmed 12v+ at the coil and no other wires attached to the neg terminal of the coil for this test). I suspect you will see a spark each time you touch/remove the ground to the coil. Then you can replace that newfangledwhatsitz with a good 'ole fashioned points/condenser distributor and drive your baby to your hearts content.

[2002Scoob]

11 hours ago, Simeon said:

Your test method doesn’t sound quite right. The coil sparks by opening the points and cutting off the current to the coil. The charged field then collapses and the rapid change of voltage then sparks. 

 

I would try holding the plug to the block and cranking. This way the 123 will be turning on and off and throwing a spark if it works. If that doesn’t work then a grounded piece of wire momentarily held to the coil negative terminal and then removed will simulate the ‘points’ opening and closing while the plug is similarly held to the block. This would rule out the coil (I don’t think it is the coil). 

 

Learnin' somethin' new every day. I also don't think it's the coil, especially since I've got a brand new one in there, and the old one tested just fine resistance-wise. Gunna be a bit perturbed if it is the dizzy. 4 day easter weekend here in Germany and Brunhilde is grounded. 

 

I'm gunna go down to the garage and replace that spade, and then try this out. 

 

I think I gotta 1 more year in this whole internal combustion air-pump thing and I'm going full electric.

 

Low-mileage DCOE street motor, anyone? 

Edited March 30, 2018 by 2002Scoob

[2002Scoob]

Welp, I hate to say it and had been beating around the bush a bit till now, but I'm going to tentatively level a finger at my 123 Ignition distributor. 

 

Replaced the grungy, but actually semi-solid spade terminal from above, coil is new and tests out... even threw in a new coil-to-dizzy lead; I really don't think there's anything left to be of issue. I wish I had an old dizzy sitting around to fully confirm, but there's enough right everywhere else that I can't think of anything else that can be wrong. 

 

Anybody else had their 123's crap out on 'em, or am I one of the few/first? 

Edited March 30, 2018 by 2002Scoob

[VWJake]

No ‘02 pals nearby to bum a distributor from? Did you ever re-run the test of the coil to confirm you got spark out of it? I saw that you replaced the spade and then you just said well I’ve thrown a bunch of new stuff at it and it still doesn’t work so I’m gonna assume it’s the dist. It’d be sad if you missed out on driving it for something silly like a lack of 12v + at the coil or a damaged cap/bad button/rotor.

 

Just giving you a hard time, not trying be rude.

 

 

[Simeon]

Have you contacted the 123 guys for support?  If the green light is flashing internally to the cap as the engine is rotated then this would seem to indicate that it is working (the light is only going to be driven by the  same electronics  that are supposed to be interrupting the feed through the coil). 

 

Definitely it it could fail but let’s round out all of the faulty finding first. 

[jrhone]

Did u change that cap and rotor??  I have had ones go bad on me and suddenly the car wouldn’t start. I like to keep old ones around so I can swap them just to test. My sister actually had a new one fail while driving down the street. Car was running fine then just cut off in the intersection. After testing and checking everything. A new cap and rotor and the car fired up. 

[2002Scoob]

4 hours ago, Simeon said:

Have you contacted the 123 guys for support?  If the green light is flashing internally to the cap as the engine is rotated then this would seem to indicate that it is working (the light is only going to be driven by the  same electronics  that are supposed to be interrupting the feed through the coil). 

 

Definitely it it could fail but let’s round out all of the faulty finding first. 

 

50 minutes ago, jrhone said:

Did u change that cap and rotor??  I have had ones go bad on me and suddenly the car wouldn’t start. I like to keep old ones around so I can swap them just to test. My sister actually had a new one fail while driving down the street. Car was running fine then just cut off in the intersection. After testing and checking everything. A new cap and rotor and the car fired up. 

 

I'll check out the above tomorrow... Haven't looked for the green light on turning over, but will. 

 

I do have a few spare caps, but no spare rotors. They looked pretty cherry last i checked, but it's worth trying out more variables, I'm still really hoping it is something dumb and simple, but i'm running out of dumb and simple things to find. (but if it is either the cap or rotor, that'd fit the bill!)

Edited March 31, 2018 by 2002Scoob