Ran When Parked.

[adawil2002]

1 hour ago, ray_ said:

I'd check grounds also. 

 

Andrew, when did you see a coil go bad?

 

;-)

 

The coil that came with Vern leaked and would get too hot to touch. Bad, bad coil. 

[2002Scoob]

I'm gunna look into it tomorrow evening, or sunday perhaps. Weather is looking pretty terrible this weekend.

 

I was thinking thou... in the 'run' position, the 123 IS getting power, as I'm able to connect via Bluetooth, and check to see if the immobilizer was on. So there's power getting to the coil...

 

I also took a peek at my fuse-box. None are blown, but all look a tad dusty. Anybody know which would be connected to the ignition? there's a diagram sticker on the underside of my hood, but nothing calls out 'ignition' or 'run' or anything of the sort. 

Edited March 9, 2018 by 2002Scoob

[adawil2002]

Regarding the fuses, give them a twist in the fuse box.

[Simeon]

Check the curve installed on your 123. I have a feeling if they are left unpowered for a long period that they can revert to a baseline curve. 

[Swiss 2002Tii]

Jeff, I had a similar experience when I was setting up my 123.  Despite checking and double-checking motor set to #1 TDC, somewhere along the line I got it 180 degrees off of #1 TDC.  Once I realized that, spun the motor around so that front pulley marker, fltwheel TDC mark, and Dizzy were all set to #1TDC, fired right up!

Tom

[wegweiser]

While not an answer to your question per se,  (and sorry for being all preachy) I highly recommend you put a high quality fuel pressure regulator on the car. I see so many beautiful, hotrodded 2002s running around with fancy fuel lines, silicone "racing" hoses, loads of go-faster polished red/blue catalog bling under the hood...and chrome plated Tiawanese CRAPOLA for pressure regulators. If you can't trust it 100% ALL the time...it's an absolutely useless object. 

 

PS: "Most of your carb problems are in your ignition."

 

And this: Dual Webers never like idling cold. (if they do, they're probably too rich) It's your duty as a DCOE owner to lightly feather the throttle til the car warms up, no matter how long it takes. Letting it lope / struggle at idle is a sin. The sound of which is akin to nails on a chalkboard to me.  

Edited March 10, 2018 by wegweiser

[2002Scoob]

5 hours ago, Swiss 2002Tii said:

Jeff, I had a similar experience when I was setting up my 123.  Despite checking and double-checking motor set to #1 TDC, somewhere along the line I got it 180 degrees off of #1 TDC.  Once I realized that, spun the motor around so that front pulley marker, fltwheel TDC mark, and Dizzy were all set to #1TDC, fired right up!

Tom

Hey Tom!

 

This shouldn't be the issue, as it was running stellar when I shut her down for the winter, unless somehow it decided to flop 180 on it's own. 

 

16 hours ago, Simeon said:

Check the curve installed on your 123. I have a feeling if they are left unpowered for a long period that they can revert to a baseline curve. 

 

Yep, this was actually one of the first things I did, because it had been left un-powered for so long, and it still had the last curve I programed in, so good to go on that front.

 

2 hours ago, wegweiser said:

While not an answer to your question per se,  (and sorry for being all preachy) I highly recommend you put a high quality fuel pressure regulator on the car. I see so many beautiful, hotrodded 2002s running around with fancy fuel lines, silicone "racing" hoses, loads of go-faster polished red/blue catalog bling under the hood...and chrome plated Tiawanese CRAPOLA for pressure regulators. If you can't trust it 100% ALL the time...it's an absolutely useless object. 

 

PS: "Most of your carb problems are in your ignition."

 

And this: Dual Webers never like idling cold. (if they do, they're probably too rich) It's your duty as a DCOE owner to lightly feather the throttle til the car warms up, no matter how long it takes. Letting it lope / struggle at idle is a sin. The sound of which is akin to nails on a chalkboard to me.  

 

Never apologize for 'preachy'! One man's preachy is another mans 'dropping knowledge'. 

 

I'm running a Malpasi Filter-King regulator with a decent quality inline pressure gauge just ahead of the carb. No Tiwanese crapola on Brunhilde, I've got TUV to deal with here in Germany. Everything has to be approved, from the era, and entered into the car's paperwork. 

 

And I hear ya on DCOE's not being happy when cold. Once I'm outa the garage I always meter the throttle to keep a fair idle till ti warms up. If it's so cold that the idle is really lumpy, and I need to get moving, I'll adjust the idle up to 950, then stop a bit down the road to drop it back down again once it's warmed up, as it'll climb up to 1150 or so on it's own when up to temp. 

 

 

I just picked up the Voltage meter from the office, dug through my junk for a square of scotch-brite for the fuse contacts, and  gunna run down this evening and do some trouble shooting. 

Edited March 10, 2018 by 2002Scoob

[ray_]

And you'll find it. And it will be something simple!

 

Cheers,

[jrhone]

Just curious.  I know you said the immobilizer wasn’t enabled. Did you enable it.  Try and start it then disable it and try and start it?  It wouldn’t be the first time that an electronic indicator was wrong.  

[2002Scoob]

Just curious.  I know you said the immobilizer wasn’t enabled. Did you enable it.  Try and start it then disable it and try and start it?  It wouldn’t be the first time that an electronic indicator was wrong.  

 

I didn’t go as far as to disable, attempt starting, the re-enable, no, but can give it a shot. It is indeed in ‘run’ mode and not enabled. Or... not disabled enabled... yah...haha

 

I didn’t have as much time as I hoped to troubleshoot this weekend, but at least pulled some voltages at the battery and coil, and they seem fine. Dizzy is getting juice.

 

 

I need to get some loose wire to rig a spark-test jig tomorrow to confirm plugs are firing, and that’ll be telling.

 

I did however, pull all my fuses and scotch-brite the ends and tabs. One fuse, #6, was brittle enough that cleaning ended up snapping the metal strap, but according to the fuse panel guide it’s for signal lighting and some other things... I’m felling the chances of this being the culprit are low, but please chime in! The coil voltage photo was taken before messing with the fuses.

Gotta get some replacements tomorrow, can’t seem to locate my pack of spares.... :/

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[adawil2002]

Hmm, (scratches head)

 

Yeah, those fuses, I'd replace them all as that sounds like your plan. 12.397v at the battery, should be fine and be 13.5v or more so when the car is running, as I recall.

 

Check bail wire plug on the back of the alternator, unplug, clean connections, plug back in. Be sure to check soundness of wires. I've had to replace 2 connectors because the wires broke at the factory crimp point.

 

[Simeon]

Just use your existing plug wires. Start with the coil wire, pull it out from the distributor and (carefully) hold the exposed terminal near the block. 

 

I keep intending to buy one of these, might even manage to pick one up before I need it. 

 

 

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Toledo-Inline-Spark-Plug-Tester-302026/SPO81568

 

 

 

[2002Scoob]

On 3/12/2018 at 7:33 AM, Simeon said:

Just use your existing plug wires. Start with the coil wire, pull it out from the distributor and (carefully) hold the exposed terminal near the block. 

 

I keep intending to buy one of these, might even manage to pick one up before I need it. 

 

 

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Toledo-Inline-Spark-Plug-Tester-302026/SPO81568

 

 

 

 

I ordered a set of the 4 smaller inline style spark-indicators,

 

For some reason I didn't think to pull the cap/check the rotor, but I'm going to tonight. The weather is still shit, and will be for the next week, so no rush.  That dizzy is darn near brand new (same mileage as the motor) and the coil not much older, so my hopes are that they're fine, but I'm positive I'll get to the bottom soon.  

[irdave]

On 3/12/2018 at 12:33 AM, Simeon said:

Just use your existing plug wires. Start with the coil wire, pull it out from the distributor and (carefully) hold the exposed terminal near the block. 

 

I keep intending to buy one of these, might even manage to pick one up before I need it. 

 

 

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Toledo-Inline-Spark-Plug-Tester-302026/SPO81568

 

 

 

That's interesting.

 

Did you try just putting new plugs in it?  (And yeah, maybe some new fuses...)

[2002Scoob]

8 minutes ago, irdave said:

Did you try just putting new plugs in it?  (And yeah, maybe some new fuses...)

 

Not yet, no, for a few reasons.

 

A- I pulled them and they don't look half-bad.

 

B-They've got less than 500 miles on them... so I'd like to not replace them. 

 

I pulled them, hit 'em with brake clean, and threw em back in. I'm about to run to the store for new fuses (if I can find the old style) and try some diagnosing over lunch today to see how it goes. 

 

I'll pull 'em again before I fire things up and post some photos, but they honestly look decent to my recollection.