(UPDATE) Side mirror attachment solution... maybe

[KFunk]

On 2/14/2018 at 9:55 AM, worzella said:

My driver mirror more or less came off in my hands when I tried to tighten the set screw, and after investigation, the mount bracket was held on by two screws through holes in the door skin.. one of the holes enlarged so the screw was loose and unable to be tightened more. 

 

After some FAQ research, I located the capture nuts (NLA everywhere I looked) in the picture at Ace and found the smaller head Phillips 6mm bolt at Home Depot. I originally wanted a hex head 6mm bolt, but the diameter of the head was just a hair too large and would not fit in the mirror track when trying to attach the mirror itself. I had to slightly enlarge the bracket holes too. 

 

I *think* these capture nuts will fit in the existing holes in my door, but will not know till this weekend when I attempt the project. I will update my results. 

Plan B is to rivet the mount bracket to the door skin!!

 

 

 

I think I've still got a bunch of the right sized jack nuts (the name I found for these) that fit in the hole just fine, and kept my mirror secured for the past 2 years.  I bought more than I needed online.  I've mailed them to someone else before, and can do it again if necessary.  

[worzella]

Mike. Keep repeating!  I use your advice all of the time!

 

Losing a mirror is way down on my anxiety list right now. After putting this together for 9 years I am finally driving it and live in fear of it exploding into bits and parts flying all over. 

 

But I am a virgin. Only 52 miles on it so far. Ha ha time for an oil change....

[Dudeland]

Has anyone tried a blind rivet?


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[jgerock]

I've replaced those on my 73 and after a while, the rear one comes loose.  Thought I had it secured for OFest, but MLytle reported the mirror almost fell off.   Since I just took the door panel off to replace the window regulator, I'm going to hate messing with that mirror again.

[2002]

To help these things stay in I put a new piece of sheet metal inside the door.  It reinforced the thin door metal.  YMMV.

[giusto]

I shifted into 5th on a stellar morning a couple weeks ago and my weekend was ruined. A two-day break in the rain gave me the green light to hit the backroads – I wasn't going to be stopped. I downed two cups of coffee. Warmed up the little car while I polished the roundel on the hood. Checked the tire pressure. During the walk-around, I noticed may driver's side mirror was - ahem - not tight. I wonder if a kid bumped it on the way to the garage toy box. "It'll be fine" ... pedal down. 

 

Shortly after I slipped it into 5th, my grin turned upside-down as I noticed the mirror about to jump ship. "I better grab that" I thought. Rolled down the window and before I could grip it ... tink tink tink. Shit. 

 

I've been battling this loose mirror for a couple of years. Carefully tightening the cage nuts in the worn out metal. I don't have the cash for a sand-down, weld-up, re-drill, re-paint type of fix. Here's what I came up with.

 

Remove the door card. Drop the glass. Cut out a 4" piece of aluminum. Dig through your plastic tubs and find two #8 x 1" bolts, washer, and lock nuts. I had to tape the nut in place in order to start the thread for front hole. Tighten in all up. Then, remount your road-worn driver's side mirror. 

 

 

Edited March 17, 2019 by giusto
Uploaded larger pictures.

[lobf]

Unfortunately all of the links on page 1 seem to be dead, and I don’t see anyone say what size the capture nuts were that they used. The original post seemed like it was saying 6mm capture nuts, but I got some of those and they were way too big. 
 

I’m trying to not go to the hardware store just to poke around on account of the pandemic, so I’d like to just order a couple of the other daft nuts I need. 
 

Can anyone advise what size capture nuts to keep my mirror from wobbling?? 
 

thank you! Sorry to revive an old topic 

[PaulTWinterton]

On 3/17/2019 at 6:09 AM, giusto said:

Here's what I came up with.

 

That works well, although having to work from the inside adds a lot of labor.  If the OE cage nuts are no longer available, I'd follow this guidance.

 

Four things I learned:

 

-  The sheetmetal distorts outward over time due to twisting of the mirror.  It must be flattened for the baseplate to sit flush and tight.

 

-  The OE cage nuts work great and for many years if they are installed properly.

 

-  Cleaning the mirror joints also relieves the stiffness and subsequently eliminates the stretching of the sheetmetal of the door.

 

-   What doesn't work are Non-OE cage nuts that have more than a millimeter of height as the mirror and gasket must sit flush on the sheetmetal.  A raised cage nut keeps the mirror elevated just enough to wobble.

 

OE cage nuts are delivered incorrectly, IMHO.  You should make the adjustment below before inserting into the door.

 

 

Edited July 31, 2020 by PaulTWinterton

[stephers]

I just use 4mm nut sert   but I also have  very expensive tool to install them properly    Once in, you can hang a lot of weight on them, you can really crank the screw down tight and they fit nice and flush with the sheet metal   Done once, never have to do them again   

[lobf]

Thank you I’ll try 4mm cage nuts

[calw]

I just implemented Guisto's solution, with an aluminum plate inside the door.  Although you can't see the front hole looking down thru the window slot, you can see the back one, which makes it possible...  I made two modifications to the scheme-  #1. I used flush head (countersink) 8-32 bolts and "KEPS" nuts (with captive star washer) instead of the nylock nut shown by Guisto, and located them with a tiny bit of 5 minute epoxy glue before attempting the install, and # 2. I rounded the corners of the aluminum part, worrying about sharp corners deforming the steel of the door when tightening the bolts- this probably isn't a viable concern, but I did it anyway. 

 

It was easier than I thought, but the access is indeed very tight.  It might work better with a second person pointing a bright, tiny light down the window slot

[Scottjeffrey]

On 7/31/2020 at 4:26 AM, stephers said:

I just use 4mm nut sert   but I also have  very expensive tool to install them properly    Once in, you can hang a lot of weight on them, you can really crank the screw down tight and they fit nice and flush with the sheet metal   Done once, never have to do them again   

Hi Stephers, Are you referring to rivet nuts? I am contemplating using them for a passenger mirror installation. If so, is it an M4, I need? It will accept the OEM scores used?

Many Thanks,

Scott