What did you do to your 2002 today !

[popovm]

23 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Today I installed a set of KUMHO Solus 185/70/13s and it drives like a new car again.  I waited way too long; but it's true what they say, "a pleasure delayed is a pleasure intensified."

 

The guy at the tire store told me they're going to stop making 13 inch tires in 2024, except for trailer tires.  I told him I hoped they'd change their mind. 

 

I noticed the receipt said the tires were filled to 35 psi, so I checked them, intending to bleed them down to thirty.  One was at thirty already, with another at 34 and the other two at 38.  I don't know what they did to scratch up the insides of my wheels, but I'm glad it wasn't on the outside.  The scratches were deep/sharp enough to cut you, so I hammered them down. 

 

 

 

I hate having other people work on my car.  It was probably good that I'd removed the tires and left the car home where it'd be safe.

 

 

Tom

Tom, which shop? You’re local to me. I’d like to know so I can stay away. 

[theNomad]

Before redoing the radiator I deep cleaned the engine bay, and addressed some very rough spots that were touched up with POR-15 or primer (still have a few more to get to). I used rusty metal primer then Rustoleum "Heirloom White" which is nearly a match to the factory Chamonix.

Thanks to whoever figured that "good enough" color match.

Its not perfect, but a long way from the mess of flaking paint, black spots, white touch up paint etc. 

The exterior of the car has been repainted and its not as close to Chamonix anymore but the engine bay worked well enough just to cover the mess and make it mostly one color. The hood will come off soon and get wire wheel and adhesive removed, sanded, repainted, etc. For now, she needs to drive.

I'm still tempted to go full into it and do lots of part removal, good prep and then Satin Black. Figured it was better to stick with body color for now as I can't get to it all. 
"Good enough" to move on for now.

['76mintgrün'02]

11 hours ago, popovm said:

Tom, which shop? You’re local to me. I’d like to know so I can stay away. 

 

Okay, I'll admit it....

 

I called around looking for the KUMHO tires and Kitsap Tire in Poulsbo wanted an extra $60 delivery fee to have them sent from Tire Rack to their shop.  (Tire Rack offered free delivery to me).  They also wanted $120 plus $20 tire disposal to mount and balance.  Les Schwab wanted $150 to mount and balance, but they don't sell those tires.  I was quoted $540 for tires, with installation at Kitsap Tire and got out the door for $460 at Walmart.  Their earliest appointment was this coming Wednesday, but by taking the tires in separately, I was able to get it done on Saturday.  I dropped them off at eight a.m. and they were done by noon.  I don't have any complaints, other than the damage done by their machine.  I just thought it was funny that they were too lazy to actually set the tire pressure to thirty-five psi, since the paper work said that's what'd been done.  As a general rule, I try not to shop at Walmart (or Amazon), but I bent that rule to save $80.

 

"I don't let anyone work on my car, but when I do, I go to the cheapest place in town."  🙃 

 

I put 6,000 miles on my car this year, driving to eastern South Dakota and back twice and that took its toll on my (very) old tires.  I swapped in a (used) side exit muffler before the trip and needed to extend the tip to get it out past the bumper, to avoid exhaust being sucked into the car, because the big (beautiful) bumpers stick out farther than the (puny) early bumpers that used the side exit mufflers.  (I'm not sure how they solved that problem on the '74 cars that had big bumpers and side exit mufflers).  I simply split a piece of thin walled pipe and jammed it into the tailpipe.   I left it sticking way out, just to be safe.  It worked fine, but looked stupid.  Yesterday, I pulled it out, shortened it, spun it around so it overlapped the tailpipe and made it fit tightly inside the stainless tip. 

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

My emergency-fix had choked the ID down a little bit, but now it maintains the proper ID to the end.  A hose clamp locked it on solid and left it adjustable, in case I need to extend it more.  I thought the long pipe sticking out was kind of funny, but yesterday's fix makes me so happy that I now realize how much the long one'd bothered me. 

 

Tom

['76mintgrün'02]

11 hours ago, theNomad said:

I'm still tempted to go full into it and do lots of part removal, good prep and then Satin Black. Figured it was better to stick with body color for now as I can't get to it all. 

 

That looks great from here!  White makes for a nice bright engine bay.  (Don't go black). 

 

 

Nice Jeep fuel filter installation!

 

 Tom

 

EDIT, it looks like you've got the vacuum retard pod connected.  How does that  work?

 

 

Edited July 31, 2023 by '76mintgrün'02

[theNomad]

I am hesitant to go black mainly because it makes leaks harder to immediately spot in most cases. I realistically won't bother changing anything other than doing the underside hood. I have some front rocker rust bubbles to address before bothering to redo anything.

 

II believe its the vacuum advance correct? At higher rpm it advances the ignition timing. Seems to work fine. I'm going to go through and re-time the engine. I probably need to get a better timing light to be sure I get it right. I've never been confident in my ability to nail it (dont have years experience with carbs).

I wasn't aware anyone was not using it...

 

At idle I'm 1.25 turns out on the idle jets (weber 38/38) and AFR is at just under 13. If I try to get it higher I get lean popping. Running through the gears I usually get 13-14 with 15 afr on decel. I need to go through and retune it all just to be sure, once I burn up the old gas.

 

['76mintgrün'02]

23 minutes ago, theNomad said:

II believe its the vacuum advance correct? At higher rpm it advances the ignition timing. Seems to work fine. I'm going to go through and re-time the engine. I probably need to get a better timing light to be sure I get it right.

 

The rotor spins clockwise, so if the advance pod pulls the points plate clockwise, it is retarding the timing.  If it pulls the points plate counter-clockwise it will advance the timing.  You have a retard-style-pod.  See how mine pulls from the other direction?

 

 

I recommend the Innova 5568 timing light.

Tom

[Leucadian]

Went to the BMW CCA event down at the Harbor, great turnout, with a couple of 02's.  The showstopper was this 1800 w/ Alpina m10 by Reyn speed shop, gorgeous car

 

 

 

 

 

Also managed to snag an original 74' 2002 brochure!  Looks like a dealer (or potential buyer) scribbled an offer

down on the back of the brochure.  Look at those tii prices!

 

 

[tzei]

Got my d/shaft back from the shop. New u-joints and nose bearing & balance job. Dunno what  sorcery they did but nose bearing is not oe anymore. It's fine as long as it works.  Oe nose bearing parts are nla btw. Put it back on and hit a snag with exhaust centre piece. As i made some adjustments to engine/tranny to point to center of CB it naturally moved exhaust so it kissed d/shaft just before rear axle carrier. Cut it half way thru in front of first muffler and bend a little and welded that up. What a smooth ride! Me happy.

Edited July 31, 2023 by tzei

[theNomad]

8 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

The rotor spins clockwise, so if the advance pod pulls the points plate clockwise, it is retarding the timing.  If it pulls the points plate counter-clockwise it will advance the timing.  You have a retard-style-pod.  See how mine pulls from the other direction?

 

 

I recommend the Innova 5568 timing light.

Tom

I believe another post says 74 202 has mechanical advance an vacuum retard. It says it was to heat up the engine for emissions. Suggestions was to just cap it.

Hmm, maybe this is the issue I have with exhaust popping as I adjust idle jets to get the carb leaner? The vacuum is further retarding the timing at idle?

Didn't even register in my mind! Time to try it out once I get the radiator in

Thanks!

['76mintgrün'02]

1 hour ago, theNomad said:

I believe another post says 74 202 has mechanical advance an vacuum retard. It says it was to heat up the engine for emissions. Suggestions was to just cap it.

Hmm, maybe this is the issue I have with exhaust popping as I adjust idle jets to get the carb leaner? The vacuum is further retarding the timing at idle?

 

The pod in your photo above is not the combination advance/retard style.  They're larger and mount on the other side, like mine.  Yours is retard-only and I agree with the suggestion to cap it. 

 

That pod can have a dramatic effect on timing at idle, if the vacuum is taken from the manifold.  It would have no effect on idle timing if connected to the ported nipple at the base of the carb.  They need to see around 5" of vacuum before they start pulling.

 

If you buy the light I suggested above, you can assess how your distributor is behaving and time it accordingly.

Tom

[bluehills2002]

Over the weekend I installed the refurbished passenger side seatbelt in my ‘74 so I could drive with a friend to the BMWCCA show at Prowse Farm in Canton MA on Sunday.  (I had reinstalled the drivers side only back in the Spring.  Al (#bluedevils) rebuilt these for me over the winter- awesome job and such an upgrade!  Tom

[SydneyTii]

Cool BWA’s!

[Bibm5]

Today I stumbled across this dust bucket in my garage that hasn't moved in about four years. 

Finally decided on an M42 swap and found a shop I want to do the project since I have zero free time these days. I'm tired of not enjoying it and just want a reliable car that will run well without constant fiddling. 

['76mintgrün'02]

Yesterday, I ran some errands and when I got home, I popped the hood to adjust the idle mixture because it had dropped from 12-1/4 to 11-3/4 on the AFR gauge.

 

The first thing I did was to connect the 5568 and found that the dwell had dropped from 60 to 56. (!)  It was idling at 800 rpm and the flywheel said I had 13 degrees of advance.

 

I turned the dwell-adjustment back up to 60, which dropped the advance to 10 degrees and lowered the idle to 780 rpm.  It also put the AFR back at 12-1/4, so I adjusted the idle mixture without having to use the screw!  

 

Tom

 

[Twix]

Shook hands and bought a ‘72 in Polaris!