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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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13 minutes ago, stephers said:

Then you need a speed nut and another screw like the ones that hold the rad in

Speed nuts there. Just need the screw. I can pick that up at hardware store. That’s why I’ll use the bracket-simple. 

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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2386D9AC-460D-47A0-83BB-07DCBE320381.thumb.jpeg.0de123972a66f4dc89fac9f470bd7ade.jpegRestoration of the wiper linkage and installed!!! (Soaked in rust remover, primed and painted polishing the aluminum) Early model so pointed the home position to drivers side and all went well withe reassembly. 
 

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saved the original BMW stamp on the motor. 
 

 

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Well, that escalated quickly. 
started as “Let me just pull a few of the screws holding side panels on and paint them.”

Whole thing held together by hopes and dreams. Pulled it all out and in process of redoing it all. Not a restoration, just a clean up, minor repairs, etc. Took opportunity to add some brown carbon wrap like I’m using elsewhere. This will help tie that all together and break up all the black. 
I like it. 
 

still need to source some screws and U speed clips to finish it up. Just mostly mocked up at this point. 

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2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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its55

don't forget the 6 lock rod grommets to stop rattles

 

file.jpg
WWW.MAX2002STORE.COM

We've built a kit for replacing the wear items that cause those common rattles in your 2002, coupe, and E3 sedans! Contains 6 lock rod grommets, 2 rubber latch buffers, 2 gray "corn kernel" buffers, and even new screws to put it all back together! Your doors will close like...

 

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9 minutes ago, Zeke said:

its55

don't forget the 6 lock rod grommets to stop rattles

 

file.jpg
WWW.MAX2002STORE.COM

We've built a kit for replacing the wear items that cause those common rattles in your 2002, coupe, and E3 sedans! Contains 6 lock rod grommets, 2 rubber latch buffers, 2 gray "corn kernel" buffers, and even new screws to put it all back together! Your doors will close like...

 

 

All is new but the lock rod grommets.  I will check those too.  Thanks!

 

 

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Chasing down intake and exhaust leaks with a smoke machine the last few days, I found the intake side pretty tight but on the exhaust side major leakage at both the downpipe/resonator junction and the slip-fit between resonator and muffler.  Worse, I found my new Eberspach rear muffler spewing smoke out of the seams at the front end. The thing has less than 1000 miles on it, and is now the second major factory part in the last couple years (the other being fuel injection lines) that was bad when new.  For shame.  Happily, it’s still under warranty, but one dreads…

 

Meantime, to address the always-difficult-to-seal junction between downpipe and resonator, I copped from Stevenola some Permatex high-temp gasket and used it liberally on both flanged pipes.  Hope that treatement is considered kosher?  In any event, no smoke coming outta there.  

 

While at it, I bought a new clamp for the transmission-to-downpipe connection, and in my efforts to isolate my slight drivetrain vibration at high speeds, squished some high temp silicon between clamp and pipe, hopefully tight enough to keep it from slipping out and loose enough not to cut through it.  Not sure this is a permanent or even semi-permanent fix, but trying to find all possible ways to dampen vibrations.

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Edited by 0257
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‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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13 hours ago, 0257 said:

bought a new clamp for the transmission-to-downpipe connection, and in my efforts to isolate my slight drivetrain vibration at high speeds

The metal bracket on the trans is the tricky part to eliminating noise and vibration. Loosely connect the downpipe and resonator , then position the bracket to the trans with the proper rubber grommets and bolt sleeves. Make sure everything is lined up with the downpipe before tightening your new downpipe clamp and resonator. Everything should "float" stress-free.

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25 minutes ago, John76 said:

The metal bracket on the trans is the tricky part to eliminating noise and vibration. Loosely connect the downpipe and resonator , then position the bracket to the trans with the proper rubber grommets and bolt sleeves. Make sure everything is lined up with the downpipe before tightening your new downpipe clamp and resonator. Everything should "float" stress-free.

Hear you, John.  I have read the blue book on this, which echoes your suggestion to line up the cup in the tranny bracket with the pipe, tighten the dampered bolts mounting the bracket to the tranny, and then tighten the u-bolt, the idea being that there should be no tension between downpipe and tranny.  My arrangement is a little different in that the cup on the tranny bracket has a cushion underneath.  I snugged the cup up against the pipe as much as I could while tightening the bracket to simulate that. We’ll see how it works long term, but short-term it should buffer the transmission of vibrations to the tranny, which generally show up in the shifter and, at higher revs, throughout the undercarriage.

‘74 Fjord 2002tii (Zouave)

’80 Alpenweiss 528i (Evelyn)

’05 R53 Chili Red Mini S

‘56 Savage Model 99 in .250-3000

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26 minutes ago, John76 said:

The metal bracket on the trans is the tricky part to eliminating noise and vibration. Loosely connect the downpipe and resonator , then position the bracket to the trans with the proper rubber grommets and bolt sleeves. Make sure everything is lined up with the downpipe before tightening your new downpipe clamp and resonator. Everything should "float" stress-free.


recently I refurbished my exhaust system as well. What I did was line everything up properly and tighten it up while the transmission hanger assembly was bolted but loose and could move to a final resting place. Then I tightened up the transmission hanger. Seems good so far. 

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Today I painted the hood support and other visible areas behind the grille black. I remember the original nose on my 67 being that way. I think it looks a lot better darkened out on a chamonix car. But then I saw this picture and now have second thoughts. But I’ll live with my decision. 

97B78B81-8D86-4017-BC43-5AC0B435058F.jpeg

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