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I've been driving this car for four years and it needs a lot of love. It's usually a hard start, but for about 3 months now, if I turn it off I have to either be parked on an incline or ready to be there for an hour+. The first time it happened I cranked it til it was out of juice and got my dad to drive an hour to tow it and by then it started right up.

I've noticed that if its cold out or ive driven a short distance, it only has to sit for a half hour or less. The colder it is, the easier it is to start.

What is going on?? I'm so sick of out of the blue bump starts (although she is so tiny and extremely cute that I can do it myself on the flat now almost anywhere).

1969 2002 - daily driver "GG"

Red

5 spd conversion

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What year and model '02 do you have?  Stock or upgraded?

When wast the last time the car had a full tune up and replaceent of all the filters?

'71 MGB - sold   '74 2002 - sold

'89 XR4Ti - sold  '94 Miata R Package - sold

'73 tii - restoration project - sold

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I've had similar problems with cars in the past. I'd start looking at the points and condenser first. If their old, do a complete tune-up and replace the typical parts such as rotor, rotor cap, point, condenser, plugs etc.... The last time it happened to me it was the points.

I've survived damn near everything.

1974 - 2002, Mild - sold to son
1976 - 2002, lil' Wild

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What year and model '02 do you have?  Stock or upgraded?

When wast the last time the car had a full tune up and replaceent of all the filters?

It's a '69 with lots of aging upgrades. Original engine as far as I know and a rattley 5spd conversion from automatic. I replaced all the filters about 6 months ago, full tune up over a year ago. New spark plug wires, rotor, cap about 1.5 years ago.

Time for a new starter would be my guess

Relatively new starter and had it tested recently.

1969 2002 - daily driver "GG"

Red

5 spd conversion

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I've had similar problems with cars in the past. I'd start looking at the points and condenser first. If their old, do a complete tune-up and replace the typical parts such as rotor, rotor cap, point, condenser, plugs etc.... The last time it happened to me it was the points.

I'm gonna look into that whole gamut tomorrow, parts store is within bicycling distance! Have a new rotor and cap in the garage waiting for me

I've had similar problems with cars in the past. I'd start looking at the points and condenser first. If their old, do a complete tune-up and replace the typical parts such as rotor, rotor cap, point, condenser, plugs etc.... The last time it happened to me it was the points.

I'm gonna look into that whole gamut tomorrow, parts store is within bicycling distance! Have a new rotor and cap in the garage waiting for me

1969 2002 - daily driver "GG"

Red

5 spd conversion

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Next time it does it, hold the throttle wide open while you crank the engine. If it's flooded this will dry it out.

I'm assuming the engine has a carburetor, you haven't told us.

No amount of skill or education will ever replace dumb luck
1971 2002 (much modified rocket),  1987 635CSI (beauty),  

2000 323i,  1996 Silverado Pickup (very useful)

Too many cars.

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Coupla more thoughts:

 

  • If your '69 still has its original 1 bbl Solex, then I'd check ign, as those carbs are very good about re-starting hot
  • if it's a Weber, they always seem harder to start when hot, even with the phenolic spacer installed.  Combined with a slow-cranking starter (did you check battery cable connections since the starter is new?) and you have a hard-starting car.  That was the problem with my '73, solved by re-working the starter motor.  
  • Next time you have a hot hard start condition, pull the output fuel line off the fuel pump (presuming you still have a mechanical pump) and have someone crank the engine while you catch the gas in a jar or can.  If the engine cranks for more than a few seconds with no fuel spurting from the pump, I'd suspect either an air leak in the upstream fuel line, or vapor lock. Check the fuel line routing between the firewall and pump; if it's touching the cyl head or manifold, re-route it so that it's not touching anything, and/or insulate it.  That will prevent fuel from boiling in the line when the car is sitting after being driven.  A mechanical pump won't pump vapor, only liquid.  

Check the above plus the previously mentioned ignition items and that should solve your problem.  Let us know whatcha find.

 

cheers

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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