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02Pilot

Solex
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Everything posted by 02Pilot

  1. 02Pilot
    I refuse to own something called a "tweel" on general principle.
  2. 02Pilot
    Yeah, there's a lot more to crankcase ventilation than just adding a vent. You need to consider where you're drawing your vacuum from (pre-throttle plate/post-throttle plate/exhaust), whether you're planning to seal the crankcase or create a draw-through system, and what your target crankcase vacuum is going to be under specific operating conditions. If you go to a sealed crankcase with a high target vacuum, I suggest you give some consideration to the transition between on- and off-throttle conditions; you generally don't want it to slam up and down. Personally, I have found that I prefer high vacuum setups in engines that can handle them, but if you have significant blow-by this won't work well. In a race motor, it may be hard to properly vent the motor fully, as you will have limited time at closed and light throttle conditions, and big cams are lousy for producing vacuum; I'm certain this is why you've seen lots of race motors with extra venting provisions. But it's hardly the only thing to consider. For anyone interested in the inner workings of crankcase venting (albeit in a more modern application), look up the "02Pilot Mod" for M54 engines - I developed it after extensive research as documented in this Bimmerforums thread.
  3. 02Pilot
    Do you have a problem, or are you to to anticipate one and deal with it preemptively? If it's the latter, given how easy it will be to add an additional vent later (pulling the cam cover and upper timing cover is minutes of work), I'd send it and wait to see if it's an issue.
  4. 02Pilot
    Octane is just a measure of the fuel's resistance to ignition. Higher ratings are less prone to ignition, which sounds like a bad thing but isn't once you consider all the things that might cause it to ignite other than the spark plugs. Pre-ignition is bad, and higher compression, high operating temps, and hot spots in the cylinder can cause it. Modern EFI systems will adapt to basically whatever you pump in; I've run my 128i on everything from 87 to 94 and it's fine. Engines without the capability to manage these variations simply require that you figure out what they need to operate properly under a given set of conditions, or you can just pump in high octane fuel and call it done. GRM recently ran a piece wherein a petrochemical engineer (IIRC) noted that high octane fuels have greater stability and higher additive concentrations, making them more suitable for long-term storage. While not a primary consideration, this is something to be aware of if you store a car for longer periods.
  5. 02Pilot
    Not that it's the easiest way to do it, but I've put my large frame Bianchi road bike in the trunk with both wheels removed, and that's with the TEP rear stress bar/battery relocation in place.
  6. 02Pilot
    You need the whole system flowing to make sure there's no air in there. Open the valve to the heater core, elevate the nose as much as you can, and bleed. It may take a few iterations, but it will bleed. These cooling systems are pretty simple compared with modern ones, which are often a real pain.
  7. 02Pilot
    Do you mean these tires in particular, or are you generalizing?
  8. 02Pilot
    You may have multiple issues. First thing I would do is try to localize the problem with a mechanic's stethoscope. If that doesn't produce a clear diagnosis, go over the top end. Look at the valvetrain first. Inspect everything closely, then adjust the valves to proper spec. Next, pull the spark plugs, inspect them, gap as necessary, then reinstall. Gap the points and set the timing. Now check the eight nuts holding the header in place - loose nuts here can lead to exhaust leaks. If you have the tools, compression and leakdown tests would be a good idea. Now start the engine. Any change? If not, your problem may indeed be deeper in the engine. But it makes sense to check the easier-to-access bits first.
  9. 02Pilot
    I'm curious about those Barum tires shown above. As I understand it, Barum is owned by Continental, so it's theoretically not as sketchy as some Chinese producer that no one had heard of five years ago. Has anyone actually used them?
  10. 02Pilot
    Heat plus impact should take those out faster than you expect. Make sure the hole is clean and as Toby said, use a good bit.
  11. 02Pilot
    Mine's a 900S (16v NA). Turbos are fun, but also can be considerably more troublesome. I wanted to stick to simple.
  12. 02Pilot
    Parts for my Saab C900 have been surprisingly cheap for the most part. Sure, there's a fair bit that's NLA, but what's out there is quite reasonable. Of course, you need to be a little sick in the head to actually want a Saab.
  13. 02Pilot
    Yeah, the stock front brakes are pretty inadequate for any sort of demanding driving. Relative to the drum-braked behemoths surrounding them in the early 70s I'm sure they were considered more than acceptable, but today's traffic is playing by different rules. If you're having trouble with heat building up and don't intend to go the full upgrade route to larger vented rotors, ducting may be a quick and dirty option. But as Einspritz noted, there are certainly specific pads that will likely offer improved performance (albeit at a price).
  14. 02Pilot
    It's all about heat. In general terms, organics work from cold, but have less tolerance for heat; ceramics need some heat to work their best, and can tolerate heat better than organics. Ceramics last longer and will also dust less, which is are no small part of the reason they became popular, I suspect. For street driving organics are usually best, at least if stopping is your first priority for evaluating suitability. On a track or for other extended high-speed use, ceramics will generally be preferable.
  15. 02Pilot
    It's nothing without the slot mags, heart-shaped window, and mismatched half-whitewall tires. And I'm willing to bet actual money that you did not opt for the two-tone brown shag interior. Hell, you don't even have a rotating disco ball in there, do you? Fail, fail, fail....
  16. 02Pilot
    You sir have missed an opportunity: You and your family are now condemned to a life of being less awesome than you could have been.
  17. 02Pilot
    It's been a very long time, and my brain is addled beyond recognition at this point, but I seem to recall an interchange with a Saturn (L-series?) exhaust stud that had an internal hex recess on it that made installation and removal much easier. I'll certainly be trying to track them down when I have occasion to replace mine - I hate fussing with stud removers.
  18. 02Pilot
    Probably nothing, but have you confirmed consistent operating voltage at idle? EFI systems can be finicky about voltage, and if it's dropping at idle it might be affecting something down the line. Also highly unlikely, as it would probably produce much more severe symptoms, but do you have a vacuum-operated FPR? I had a diaphragm in one develop a pinhole that sent extra fuel to the intake at idle.
  19. 02Pilot
    I asked above but didn't see an answer: how are you controlling air at idle? Is there an idle control valve or some other arrangement?
  20. 02Pilot
    How is air controlled at idle? Is it via the primary venturis or do you have a separate idle control valve?
  21. 02Pilot
    If the AFR is going rich when you lift off and come to a stop, you've got some sort of fuel delivery issue. Too much fuel entering when at closed throttle and not at idle. Not saying it's the issue, but it's an issue. You shouldn't be going rich when the throttle is closed; the EFI should cut fuel when the TPS says the plates are at the idle position.
  22. 02Pilot
    Failing the brake booster that seems to be the leading contender, can you give a little more detail on how it wants to stall? Is it a rough stumble, or is it cutting out, or a smooth drop in RPM? With EFI I'm guessing you have an oxygen sensor in play - do you have an AFM? If so, what is it showing when it wants to stall?
  23. 02Pilot
    It's always nice to resolve a problem, especially an electrical one, without too much of a fight.
  24. 02Pilot
    It's almost certainly electrical. Check your wiring first, as that's the most likely cause. Also be sure the sender is grounding properly.
  25. 02Pilot
    Given that all proper drone launches are immediately preceded by the call of "Pull!" and, if all goes well, punctuated shortly thereafter by the sharp report of a 12ga. shotgun and the subsequent rapid return to the earth of said drone, I would say this is probably not the idea sort of place to see them used. But then I suppose others may view drone use rather differently than I do.
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