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man_mark_7

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Everything posted by man_mark_7

  1. Thanks so much for tutorial! Looks very nice. I will be curious to see if the vinyl stays attached and/or shrinks over time....
  2. I just installed IE Street / Track header. I was able to get it in from below using jack stands and by unbolting the trailing link and tie rod end on the exhaust side. Didn't have to do anything with the motor mounts. M
  3. I used the Aardvark panels. Good quality. I had to open up the holes along the top very slightly so that the star pronged tabs of the metal door/glass rub thingy holder seated all the way against the wood before I bent them back over.
  4. And a quick search turns up a post with the same cast of characters. ?
  5. Do tell. Is this a bolt-in? What part #. I assume ND is Nippon Denso?
  6. Makes total sense. Glad I didn't go with my first plan which was to mount it in the header. Sounds like 10-12" downstream from the header, as long as I make sure there are no leaks at any joints, is the way to go.
  7. Yah - Install manual says at least 15deg off horizontal to prevent condensation (as you said). I was thinking - great, looks like there is room to mount it vertically - but the instructions say don't mount perfectly vertically either because it may overheat! So - that leaves somewhere between 10 and 80 degrees. I think if I can mount it in the adapter after the header I can get it in at about 20deg.
  8. Does anyone have pics of the area immediately after the header of their IE install? I'm trying to figure out how the bend in the "flange adapter" after the header should be oriented and where the support bracket off the transmission should attach. I've got a 245 Getrag installed. I've been communicating with IE, but they don't have any pics readily available. I was hoping to get a jump on things and get the AFR sensor bung welded in to the adapter before the rest of the exhaust arrives, but I probably need to wait and rough everything in to make the final decision? Thanks! Mark
  9. Sad news indeed. Just texted my Air Force buddy. RUSH was the soundtrack to our first days of freedom after basic training and tech school while stationed in Dover Delaware. Fly by Night Neal....
  10. Finished getting the exhaust manifold & studs out in preparation for an IE header/exhaust install. Mocked everything in place so I can get a bung welded in for AFR sensor. Has anyone mounted in the "flange adapter" vs. the actual header? I just don't seem to have enough room to mount the sensor on the header and get the angle greater than 10deg from horizontal. I think I will need to get the option AEM stainless bung to do install in the stainless flange adapter? I also partially installed the new MOMO California wheel I got for Christmas. I'm just waiting on a BMW horn button. Anyone want a well worn E21 wheel? Lastly I'm waiting on parts from the Czech Republic for my dual Weber DCOE 40 install!
  11. Just emailed Corbeau to send me swatches of their two tan colors for the Sport seat. They responded quickly and said they'd send them right out.
  12. I will be following this saga with great interest. I've got stock seats in my '73 but they are starting to spring some leaks.
  13. I have had at least 3 or 4 good laughs on separate days when seeing this!!!
  14. I am really interested in this air filter, but.... This bolts directly to the face of the Weber carbs, correct? Is there any data on how this setup compares to velocity stacks? I have heard that you tune the length of your velocity stacks like you tune your primary jets, emulsion tubes, etc. If it's only a % or two HP change then no big deal, but I'm really curious. Thx Mark
  15. From 24hrs of Lemons fame (or infamy)
  16. Very nice recovery! What are the wheels? They look Panasport/Minilite - esque, but not quite.
  17. I'm so afraid to click this link. Can someone else click it and tell me if it's safe ?
  18. Finish the header & AFR sensor install I started just before Xmas. It's in place, now I need to mark location of AFR sensor, remove header, get bung welded on then re-install for real. Drive See how far off my seat-of-the pants jet setup on the Weber 32/36 was, then pull the carb & intake Install the dual DCOE 40 setup I have sitting in the basement which are just waiting on the right primary chokes to arrive on the slow boat from Czech Republic. Drive Install the new MOMO California wheel I got for Xmas Drive Finish installing new door cards from Aardvark Drive Fiddle with endless bits that need attention Drive even more
  19. How good / bad are the heater control panels? Do they show any signs of rust? Thx M
  20. I like the air filter! I'm just about to install dual DCOE 40's on my '73. What is the brand / model? Is that a non-tii brake booster? thx M
  21. Hi Brandon,

     

    I'm looking for a turn signal cancel tab (also called a "retainer") like the one shown below. Do you have any?

     

    thx

    M

     

     

    Screenshot 2019-12-30 at 5.43.12 PM.png

    1. Brandon

      Brandon

      I believe I do.  Let me check for you and I’ll let you know soon.

  22. Hi Looking for a turn signal cancel tab for my '73. WN, Pelican and a few other places have it for ~$35. I thought I might be able to save a bit by asking here. BMW calls it a "retainer" with part # 32321118825. Picture below. Many thanks, Mark
  23. Glad you are up and running again! How hard was it to pull the "new" needle out? I wonder if a combination of the float setting, and relatively low fuel pressure, caused the new needle to get jammed into the orifice? Did you notice if the cone angle on the tip of the new and old needles were similar? Were the overall lengths of the needles the same? All of these things could affect what sounds like the needle valve not opening enough. M
  24. Dying to hear the outcome, but based on the way you set your float height I would guess that is the issue. The fuel to the carb would be getting cut off when there was barely any fuel in the bowl. The diagram really helps in a way that "40 mm to the bottom of the float" can't! M
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