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man_mark_7

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Everything posted by man_mark_7

  1. man_mark_7
    That was the first thing I did, replaced old slow cranking starter with the Bosch SR441X starter. Cranks like a dream now, just doesn't catch unless I crank a long time or give it some ether. I'll try the check valve and report back.
  2. man_mark_7
    Hi Bob. Do you still have mirror? thx Mark
  3. man_mark_7
    I bought an non return valve (check valve) a month or so ago but got spooked and didn't install it after I read that it had about a 2psi crack pressure. Did you notice any similar spec on the one you installed? Is it working OK for you? My symptom is lots of cranking required after car has sat for a couple days and fuel filter looks mostly empty. I'm puzzled though since I would have thought it would take more than a couple days for fuel to evaporate enough from the float bowl to cause an issue, but maybe my Weber 32/36 is really sensitive for fuel level and only a millimeter or two drop is enough to cause a problem? I'm guessing I need to crank so much because the fuel pump has lost its prime? If I hit it with a shot of ether the car fires right up then runs great.
  4. man_mark_7
    PM Sent - thx
  5. man_mark_7
    I've got DGAV. It is now an electric choke. I'm not sure it always was. In fact, It doesn't look like any other DGAV I've ever seen. It seems cannibalized from somewhere else. In the top left of the attached image you can see the accelerator pump. I haven't been able to figure out what the other vacuum chamber thing shown in the lower left of the picture is? It has the small black hose plugged into it that comes off the carb base plate. (2 pics follow)
  6. man_mark_7
    I've played with TinkerCAD a bit. They have some BMW's, but no 2002's https://www.tinkercad.com/search?q=bmw M
  7. man_mark_7
    I just installed sync-link on my stock '73 with a weber 32/36. I don't notice a hiccup. I'm running what's listed below. It's an old carb and I have not seen any mention on 2002faq about venturi sizes. The venturis I list below are what was in it when I got the car. Primary Venturi 3.5 Emulsion tube f50 Main Jet 140 Air Correction Jet 145 Idle Jet 60 Secondary Venturi 4.5 Emulsion tube f50 Main Jet 165 Air Correction Jet 170 Idle Jet 55
  8. man_mark_7
    Let us know how you like it. I just sync-linked my 32/36 then added a 123ignition bluetooth dizzy. Still tuning both but I love to growl of the weber with the sync-link. It sounds faster ?
  9. man_mark_7
    Well, if you swap the #2 and #3 wire, the car will run remarkably well, but spit through the carb every now and then... Problem solved. Now to start tuning with the butt dyno & a stopwatch. First thing I notice is that the idle is now very smooth. I used to get a minor misfire every now and then with the old dizzy.
  10. man_mark_7
    Thanks for the ideas flagoworld. She was running great before I pulled the old dizzy so I'm guessing it's not running lean. The odd thing is that it's intermittent (every 2-3 seconds) and only at low RPM. I did also adjust the valves when I had the valve cover off to set TDC so I'm going to revisit valve clearance tomorrow, then re-check TDC.
  11. man_mark_7
    Dropped in a 123ignition bluetooth distributor 2 days ago. Car is running, but pops through the carb randomly at low RPM every few seconds. I just haven't had the time to debug and play with the curve. There are a gazillion threads on 123tune. I think I read them all....
  12. man_mark_7
    Tan (I think it's called Saddle?) driver seat for '73?
  13. man_mark_7
    I never found an answer to either of MattnFL's questions. I would love to know the same: 1) which emulsion tubes (f50 in both)? 2) good method to easily & reversibly plug secondary enrichment orifice? thank! Mark
  14. man_mark_7
    Another thread from the dead. I have this same issue. Weber 32/36 progressive. When I manually operate the throttle and look down the bores the primary plate opens, but fuel comes out of both "wings" of the accelerator pump outlets. THe secondary plate does not open until I push much further. Why would this be happening? Like someone said above, doesn't this just mean the fuel is puddling on the secondary plate? Does it make any difference if engine is running (drawing vacuum) or not? I haven't tried looking down the barrels w/ engine running. thx!
  15. man_mark_7
    Just ordered one of the single DIN mounts from Kooglewerks. What supports the radio w/in the console? In other words, I don't imagine that all the weight of the radio is supported by the faceplate panel? thx!
  16. man_mark_7
    Thanks for the very kind offer Guy. I'll see what everyone else turns up. I would guess the innards are the same, but I'd love to know for sure. M
  17. man_mark_7
    There are 4 tabs holding the black plastic backing onto the switch. They are peened / crimped to hold the plastic on. You have to try and uncrimp them. You can see on my switch that someone broke off two of the tabs (far side of the picture - my finger is running behind the tabs). My switch was held together with a zip tie by some previous owner since the two tabs were broken. It might be hard to uncrimp without breaking. M
  18. man_mark_7
    Happy Holidays! I recently cleaned up my turn signal / wiper / washer pump switch on my '73. Turn signals work great, but I think I lost a part of the washer pump mechanism when I had the switch apart ? I found this post, but I can't really make out what the part looks like. "Repair Turn Signal Switch" (Yes, I posted here too, but it didn't elicit any responses - sorry for the double post) I think there should be pin in the hole seen to the right of the two long copper strips on the lower half of the switch in the attached photo, but when I made a metal one, it grounded and the pump ran all the time. I tried to make a small plastic dowel and I couldn't quite get the length right. Could anyone show me a picture of what this part looks like and/or provide some dimensions for it? Better yet, if you have one laying around you are willing to part with I'll give you $10 for it! Thanks in advance, Mark
  19. man_mark_7
    Bringing back another thread from the dead... I took my TS switch apart last week to clean contacts and I think I lost a part. What is supposed to go in the little hole adjacent to the two copper strips? I can't quite tell what it is from the pictures above. When I pull the lever towards me, I'm assuming a little pin is supposed to get pushed out of that hole to force the large floating copper lever against its contact point? Can anyone provide a picture and/or dimensions of the pin (or is it a ball bearing?) that is supposed to go in the hole? I searched all over my carpet and can't seem to locate - bummer!!!! Thanks in advance M
  20. man_mark_7

    2587443

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  21. man_mark_7
    Sorry to resurrect this thread from the dead. On a LH drive car does the cancel tab go at the 3 O'clock or the 9 O'clock position? In other words, should the tab be on the same side, or on the opposite side of the steering column from the turn signal stalk when steering wheel is in neutral position? thanks! M
  22. man_mark_7
    Hi all - My first post. I recently picked up a very solid, if not very patina'd, '73. (Pic attached w/ my '70 Triumph Daytona) She has very solid bones and I'm more and more impressed with this car the more I work on it. It seems mostly original, especially the Agave green paint. It does have the Getrag 245 / 5-speed upgrade. I'm finishing up some things so I can get it inspected. Along with many small things like fixing turn signals, horn, backup lights, etc., I have: Rebuilt Weber 32/36 carb Replaced right rear wheel cylinder Installed stock muffler (old one rusted/broke off?!) The stock muffler / resonator sound is a bit tame for me. I am considering deleting the resonator. I searched through the forums and found several mentions of "resonator delete" but they all seem to be custom straight-pipe solutions fabricated by muffler shops. Does anyone know of an off-the-shelf straight pipe that would mate to factory down pipe and muffler? I am certainly considering a header in the future so I'm open to other options. I avoided the ansa two-tipped sport muffler as I heard they are a bit droning at highway speeds. I also read that the straight pipes can cause some popping when decelerating. Is this just an annoyance, or can it cause damage to the engine or exhaust? Many thanks in advance! M
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