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man_mark_7

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Everything posted by man_mark_7

  1. man_mark_7
    I was debating this option too. Knowing it can be done gives me the nudge I need! Many, many thanks.
  2. man_mark_7
    I got a good deal on an unused IE street/track header a few months back. I just pulled the stock exhaust manifold and am PB Blasting the studs to hopefully remove w/ vise grips. I had to grind the nuts off since I couldn't get them to budge when removing manifold so, yes, I do need to pull the studs. I looked at all the header install threads I could find, but none answered my question: How much do I need to detach to get these headers installed? Do I need to undo both motor mounts and jack the engine up? Or, can I get it in from below? Any other tips? thanks, Mark
  3. man_mark_7
    Do you know what the covering is?
  4. man_mark_7
    Thanks for the report @wheelieking! Glad you're pleased with the system. For now I'm just doing the header and collector to stock resonator / muffler. I plan to upgrade to IE resonator / muffler in the future.
  5. man_mark_7
    How did this install go?! I'm about to embark on a similar install.
  6. man_mark_7
    Slayed (slew?) the dragon! I got the exhaust manifold and downpipe out so that I can install the long IE header I picked up a few months ago. Top nuts/studs came out easily. The lower studs/nuts wouldn't budge. I managed to get the grinder to the nuts/studs on 1,2 & 3, but not enough room for #4. I managed to snake in my Sawzall and with a rather long, flexible blade managed to make it 3/4 of the way through #4 before I ran out of angling room. I used the good old hand hack saw for the final 1/4 of the stud and bobs-your-uncle off popped the manifold. I just started soaking the lower studs, looks like I have enough length there to get a good vise grip clamp on them and back them out - I hope! I think I need to undo the passenger motor mount to get the long IE header in?
  7. man_mark_7
    Very clean! Well done. Does anyone know what the rectangular hole with the circular hole next to it, and the other two holes nearer the rear of the car along the axis of these strips, are for? On the passenger side of my '73 they are all empty. I can't see the square hole and the adjacent circular hole on the drivers side, are they under the battery tray & what are they for? Thx!
  8. man_mark_7
    I don't think wheel (rim) diameter will help much unless you make it help. Usually, the tire height is adjusted so the OD still matches the EOM OD. You would have to explicitly spec a larger diameter tire. This calculator is really useful to see what will happen to the accuracy of your speedometer, and potential for rubbing on wheel wells or tie rods, etc. https://www.willtheyfit.com/
  9. man_mark_7
    I've got the same header sitting in my attic. Was planning to install during this "salt" season. (NE roads in the winter). I'll be interested in the responses.
  10. man_mark_7
    Turns out the holes in the door card were all slightly undersized by ~1/16". Once I opened them up a bit it was easy peasy. I used a block of wood with an even larger hole drilled into it as a support structure. I use the following method: Drilled out top row of holes on door card by ~1/16" Placed the door card panel onto the block of wood placed the metal door panel top piece onto the door panel, lining up the 4-prong barbs with the door card holes Tapped (w/ a hammer) a punch that was slightly smaller than the hole through the 4-prong barb opening Used the punch to start to fold over the 4 prongs Use a hammer to flatten down the four prongs Some pics below
  11. man_mark_7
    I think we're getting a little off topic. But, I can't remember, was this thread was about trim delete, or rear seat delete? What other "deletes" are there?
  12. man_mark_7
    This makes a lot of sense. I recall on some other vehicles I've had that there was a plastic disk that pressed against the back of the door card around the window crank shafts. The spring pressed against the back of the disk to hold the disk against the card. This closed the gap between the handle and the card - as you said.
  13. man_mark_7
    If we all stop commenting, then I'm sure this will just go away ?
  14. man_mark_7
    Thanks for the ideas. Some combo of all of the above: countersink, push the drill bit through, and poly adhesive would probably give me 50+ year door cards!
  15. man_mark_7
    That is some real skill there. I'll give this a try.
  16. man_mark_7
    I am finally getting around to installing the Aardvarc door cards I bought months ago. I've looked at the various install instructions (see below). My question is, has anyone come up with a good method to re-flare the 4 little metal prongs that attach the top metal rail to the door card in several locations? They don't quite protrude far enough through the card to easily peen them over w/ a hammer. thx! M
  17. man_mark_7
    I have always wondered, what is the purpose of the springs surrounding the window cranks?
  18. man_mark_7
    Definitely turning into a Streisand Effect thread: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Streisand_effect.
  19. man_mark_7
    I will be following this with great interest. I have 3 DCOE 40's (yes I know I only need 2) that I picked up cheap and in great condition a few months back. I should get my IE intake and linkage kit by this Friday, then I'll start the install. I will also be running an IE header (and sooner or later full exhaust). What are your current venturi / jet settings? What are you running for distributor? M
  20. man_mark_7
    Brand new, with original shipping box - excellent, unused condition. WN part # a17111102621 Lists for €252.06 ($280) + €24.50 ($27) shipping on Walloth - Nesch. Will sell for $225 + shipping OR $200 for local pickup. "Radiator with high cooling rate - with original dimensions (exchangeable with standard radiator for 1502 - 2002 ti), net size 400 x 340 x 40 mm - fits for all models - especially for cars with cooling problems or high performance engines or race activities - approx. 50% higher cooling rate than standard radiator for 1502 - 2002 ti, approx. 20% higher cooling rate than tropical/tii radiator, Made in Germany in original look- for use in US spec. model only with lower water hose 11531266452" https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/catalogsearch/result/?order=name&dir=asc&q=a17111102621 Purchased new from Walloth-Nesch. During install found out my car had a minor "push" to the nose that needs to be repaired before this radiator will fit. I had also bought this as an insurance policy for running hot in the summer. My car actually had no issues in hot weather. There is a small dent in the top tank that I didn't notice until I took these pictures. It really looks extreme in the picture, but it's actually not that noticeable in normal lighting. It shipped this way from WN. Less
  21. man_mark_7
    What compression ratio did you go with? I'm slowly accumulating parts for a similar build.
  22. man_mark_7
    I have a Walloth-Nesch "high cooling rate", aka Tropics, radiator still in the box that I've decided not to use. I paid ~ 230 Euros plus ~ 50 Euro shipping. That's about $300 total. I'd let it go for $225 + shipping. Regards, mark
  23. man_mark_7
    My vote is for firing order. Spoken from a place of experience after I put in a 123 ignition. It's amazing how well they actually run with wires on the wrong plugs.
  24. man_mark_7
    Gertrude got some new shoes. Rota RB 15x7's with 205/50/15's. I've only had about 5 min behind the wheel around town, but they feel good!
  25. man_mark_7
    Bumper mount brackets for front bumper?
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