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man_mark_7

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Everything posted by man_mark_7

  1. man_mark_7
    Did you try this suggestion from irdave? What was the result? Does it only happen with clutch fully depressed? How about with car in neutral and braking hard? What happens when you pull emergency brake instead of foot brake? Just thinking of some ways to rule out electrical gremlins - Or, are you convinced it's fuel delivery related?
  2. man_mark_7
    Can't say I've paid much attention. They all seem to work.
  3. man_mark_7
    Now I somehow made a redundant post and can't seem to delete it.....
  4. man_mark_7
    Interesting - I just noticed my base model '73 has a 2002 logo where your BMW roundel is. (MY BAD - just looked, it has both the logo and the roundel.) It would be a shame to part this out, but if you go down that route keep me in mind. Where are you located?
  5. man_mark_7
    That is good stuff! I had forgotten about it. Better get some more for the tool kit. Self Fusing Tape
  6. man_mark_7
    How much searching did you do before buying? Can you recommend a brand/model?
  7. man_mark_7
    I tried check valve before switching to electric fuel pump. It worked fantastic. Great quick starts even after the car sat for a few days. Unfortunately, one day after coming back from some errands ,I popped the hood an noticed fuel dripping out of the fuel line where it attached to the carb, even after tightening the clamp more than I wanted to. When I unclamped the line, pressurized fuel briefly sprayed out of the fuel line. I concluded that fuel was trapped between the needle valve in the carb and the check valve near the tank and must have had an air bubble somewhere that expanded due to heat and pressurized the line. I just decided I was done playing with the mechanical system and went with electric and a pressure regulator.
  8. man_mark_7
    Forgive me if a thread like this already exists - If so, please point me to it!! I recently posted to a hose / fuel line clamp thread started by Worzella, that I found some clamps I really loved: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071GFC9RN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I also realized that I found some great heat shrink electrical terminals that changed my life (OK, I'm being a bit dramatic) not long ago: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07124B886/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This made me start to think about all the great maintenance/repair parts and tools I haven't yet stumbled upon. What are some of your favorites?!
  9. man_mark_7
    Hi Tiistick, Do you know which years this will fit? thx Mark
  10. man_mark_7
    I had to move the turn signal cancel striker from the left side to the right on my e21 wheel for my '73. Not sure if all 2002's have the turn signal stalk on the right side of the steering wheel? M
  11. man_mark_7
    Yikes indeed! Do you crank the engine for several minutes?
  12. man_mark_7
    After installing a new starter to fix a slow cranking issue my car would still need to crank too much for my liking after sitting for a few days. I opted to install a carter pump using the steel return line. I didn't like the idea of pressurizing the plastic line running through the cabin. I also installed an inertial cutoff switch. Bonus is that I installed the inertial switch under the rear seat so I can flip the seat up, whack it, and I've got a cheap anti-theft setup! My startup routine is now turn key, listen for electric pump to pressurize (2-3 sec?) then crank. The car starts right up. I debated whether to replace the mechanical or go electric and decided that if I was out somewhere touring the country (in my future dreams) and the fuel pump died it would be much easier to stop in the local auto zone for an electric replacement vs. getting a mechanical replacement. My 2 cents. M
  13. man_mark_7
    I love these clamps: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B071GFC9RN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  14. man_mark_7
    I'd like to try my hand at restoring a dash. Looking for a 2 piece that will fit a 1973. Multiple cracks, holes, etc. OK. Probably the only thing that is not OK is mold? thanks Mark
  15. man_mark_7
    Major Price Drop! Was $10, now FREE! I tried to enter $0, but it kept getting changed to $100. Works, but probably needs a rebuild. Cranked very slow so I upgraded. Bracket included Local pickup only. thanks!
  16. man_mark_7
    What is the dry ice pellet trick?!?
  17. man_mark_7
    Something like below. Used is, of course, fine.
  18. man_mark_7
    Pair of flag mirrors, gaskets and mounting hardware. Thx! Mark
  19. man_mark_7
    Bummer. I'm thinking of doing a sidedraft install too. Where did you get your carbs & why did you need to return them? Not looking forward to the hassles that I've heard of.
  20. man_mark_7
    Similar taste in cars. I had a '70 TR6 before the family came along. My current '73 2002 is my re-entry into the vintage world. I did manage to squeeze a '70 Triumph Daytona (motorcycle) into my garage with all the kids bikes and toys over the last few years. Enjoy the 1600-2, it looks like a beauty.
  21. man_mark_7
    PM'd
  22. man_mark_7
    Thanks Zinz. I took a look and there are a few choices. I think I'll wait until I get the old one out and apart to make sure I get the right one. I always wondered why it looked like there were some stacked gaskets / under the pump. Found this on a VW site. Totally makes sense. I think I'll rebuild the old one to keep in the trunk as a backup for those long road trips. I wonder how long it would take for the diaphragm to dry out sitting in the trunk.... fuel pumps are self regulated for pressure, but you have to know how to do it! This is accomplished by putting the pump further away from the push rod, lessening the pump stroke. You do this by stacking pump gaskets between the pump and spacer. We have seen the stock pump output pressure exceed 12psi, often due to aftermarket pump spacers being too short. Either stack a ton of gaskets, or use a properly built spacer.
  23. man_mark_7
    Installed the anti-drainback check valve I had been hesitating to install to fix my "doesn't want to start after sitting for a few days issue". I thought all was good, then I noticed that fuel was leaking from the fuel pump gasket after shutting the car off. I assume the check valve had trapped pressure in the line and that heat from the warm engine was expanding whatever air might have been in the line and therefore pressurizing it enough to leak. I tried cinching down the screws on the fuel pump, but it was still leaking. Unable to find a rebuild kit for the pump, and reading about all the horror stories about NLA pumps and different length pushrods, I opted to try and future-proof the car and ordered an electric fuel pump..... It looked good for the 10 minutes it was in the car.
  24. man_mark_7
    PM Sent - thx!
  25. man_mark_7
    I once again chickened out on the check-valve install. 2psi of suction required to crack it that far from the mechanical pump, and on the pump inlet side makes me nervous. I did, however pull the fuel line off the tank and lo' - no sleeve! I put a sleeve on and she seemed to catch quicker than normal. Of course, this is with the fuel line mostly drained to the pump since I had the line off so that's a good sign. I'll report back after starting her when she has sat for a few days. If the sleeve doesn't work I'll resort to the check valve. On another note, I know my gas cap is sealing, when I leaned on the tank to reposition the hoses temporarily, fuel came squirting out of the pickup tube as I compressed the tank! Now that I think of it, this probably isn't a good thing. The pump is pulling against a closed system. Is the fuel cap supposed to have an internal vent? M
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