TG2k2

Not sure how OEM you want to go but I had these on my last car (with Scheels). They are built well and I was very happy with the figment (specifically the height). https://www.boltonbliss.com/product/scheel-mann-low-rise-seat-adapter

Found this on eBay. It’s NOS and very expensive... hopefully you can talk them down? Note: you may have to change your location in eBay for it to show up. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.it%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F323500076824

I am going through the same thing with my 1.6L engine as I look to rebuild it. The advice that many have given me is the following: 1. Install a more aggressive cam. Most people use the 292 or 300 cam which will give you a bump in performance without sacrificing drivability. 3. Use higher compression pistons. Personally I prefer to keep things stock in this area (where possible) but it is an option. The problem is this typically means expensive machine shop time that can very quickly add up. 4. Make sure your gear ratio is the best one for your setup. There are plenty of articles on the FAQ about the different ratios that will help you determine which one is best for you (I would be happy to give you advice but I am by no means an expert in this area). 5. Once you have configured the engine as you want it you can start looking in to things that will help get the most out of it. For example, installing a lighter flywheel. These types of upgrades won’t give you more power but they will ensure the power that is generated is going towards overall performance as opposed to turning an unnecessarily heavy flywheel. The 1.6L engines are known for their buttery smooth, high-revving capabilities. You can get more out of them but be careful not to go overboard. There is a fine line between reaching the engine’s potential and losing the attributes that make them so special. Take your time to speak with people who have done the same. Once you know what you want carefully plan your implementation and you will achieve your goal without making any sacrifices. Good luck!

I agree with @halboyles on this. I believe the main difference is just the rolling of the edges for rigidity and that both bushings are consistent between the early and later control arms. This is one thing that even the most accurate historical-aware parts list cannot be used to confirm. It appears BMW made a conscious decision to eliminate the early control arms so even a vehicle specific lookup on a site like REALOEM gives you the more recent version of the control arm (with no link back to the part that the current one precedes). Regardless, the points where the control arms attach to were not modified (as far as I know) which should be a good indication that the bushings are consistent.

They are similar in shape but the earlier control arms were narrower/not as thick. I will see if I can find the exact measurement from my notes and send them along...

https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/dach/bmw-1502-2002-turbo/katalogbild-54-06.html

Are you looking for stock springs? I have a pretty good set that I bought from another FAQer that look like they were barely used. If you’re interested I’ll take some pics when I get home tonight.

Looks like some great roads to rip the 02 (or 912) around on!!!

@2k2tii - C, you can order it (and all back issues) through this link: https://www.bimmer-mag.com/issues/1

Here are some pics of a 1600ti booster... the first few pictures were taken after the booster came back from being serviced (the exterior has yet to be painted back to its factory black and bright royal blue).

I have been looking in to this as well and my understanding is that there are three things that help identify the 1600ti air canister (over the 2002tii canisters): 1. There is no indent for the booster in the 1600ti like the 2002ti and 2002tii had. The booster was smaller and didn’t require the extra space. 2. The clasps that hold the end caps on are reversed (i.e., they are mounted to the main body instead of the end caps). This was also the case for the 2002ti. 3. There are 4 slanted/angled output holes to sync up with the carb inlets (as opposed to a single hole that fed to the manifold of the injected cars). Again, same as the 2002ti. [mention=48280]halboyles[/mention] - the picture you posted appears to be a 1600ti air canister given the lack of indent. Attached are two pictures of a 1600ti (top) and a 2002ti (bottom) canister for comparison. I also have several pictures of a 1600ti booster (see next post).

I have a tii clock available. Please PM me if you are still interested.