TG2k2

Hi Ryan, These were on the earlier 1600 models that didn’t have three point belts (or headrests). The ones I have are so badly rusted you can’t even make out the BMW logo. I’m just hoping I can find a decent set at this point that I can work with... Thanks for checking my post out! TJ

I’m looking for a set of the early lap belts shown in the pictures below. Willing to pay or trade for parts. Please let me know what you have and what you need. Thanks! TJ

When you use these devices you have to get the kind that changes frequencies. Although mice hate noise they will eventually get used to one frequency. If you have one of the devices that changes frequencies every so often (ideally at random) they are much more effective. Ask me (and the wires in my last 02) how I know...

Fun Fact: the all-white visors were used on early ( I was pleased to find that W&N recently had them listed on their site. I tried to order two a couple of days ago and they followed up to tell me that they had incorrectly listed them (technical error). They don’t have any! Wish I could have given you some better news...

Great article Anders! I hope you are doing well. Hang in there... one day you’ll have that NK you always dreamt of in your garage!!!

Been a while since I did this but from what I can recall... When I put my Recaros IN to the car I mounted the adapters to the seats and then the adapters to the original rails before I put them in. When I was ready to put them on the car I placed the seats on top of the platform so that the front part of the rails (that bends downwards) lines up with the front mounting holes. I secured the front two bolts (the thread part facing straight back as you screw them in) by pushing the seats all the way back on the rails and then the back two bolts (the threaded part facing down as you screw them in) by pushing the seats all the way forward on the rails. If you’re taking yours out the reverse order is the way to go. Push your rails all the way forward, undo rear bolts that secure the rails to the body/platform, then push seat all the way back and undo the front bolts that secured the rail to the platform. Also note: if the restorer did the mounting correctly I believe the bolts for the original rails are soldered in on the underside of the platform (i.e., you don’t need a wrench to hold them still while taking the bolts out. Though some of mine had come loose over time so I recall having to hold one or two while undoing the bolts). Whereas the bolts for the seat adapters to the rails and seat bottoms would need a wrench to hold them still (while using a second wrench to undo the bolt). Oh, and be careful once you are ready to take the seats out. Make sure you know where the rails are so you don’t put a tear in your door cards or scrape paint off your door frame or something. Some blue painters tape can be used to secure things once they seats are unbolted and before you’re taking them out. Someone else may have done things differently but that’s what I remember from it and the process wasn’t too bad... Good luck!

I had them so bad one year that I took about 30 glue traps and created a circle around my car. It definitely kept them out but also made me realize I had more of a problem. That’s when I went all Rambo on those little freeloaders...

I had a set of these on my first 02. Didn’t know they were an accessory until recently. Most people would say something like, “Oh, that’s interesting... haven’t seen that before” or “What did the PO do there?” Very rare indeed. Nice find!!

Sports Car Restoration in Plainville, CT. 123 Whiting Street Plainville CT 06062 1 (860) 793-2002 Ask for Nate

I have one... I’ll PM you

Hello ti owners, I have been trying to find a stock/factory image of a 1600ti engine compartment. I have plenty of the exterior and even the interior but the engine compartment, specifically, seem to be difficult to come across. If anyone has any 1600ti or 2002ti engine compartment pictures please post... for that matter, feel free to post anything ti. As with any knowledge on this site the more we have the merrier! Thank you in advance! TJ

Woah! Unfortunately that was not meant to be a joke. More like my mind reminding me how old I am. Yes, the DDH 40s that were on the A1 were definitely Solex!

My understanding is that they used Weber DDH 40s for the early cars.

Just a heads up... the website URL is www.ic3.gov

Relays usually last a long time. The thing is even if the car was restored there is a good chance they left the original one if it was working. It might just be time for a new one. Sounds like you’re checking the right things but here is how I typically proceed with a bad relay... First thing to do is make sure all of the contacts on the relay and other connectors in the line are clean. I am shocked at how the smallest amount of corrosion can make what is otherwise a clean line not work. If you haven’t done that already I would recommend scraping away any corrosion that may exist, making sure you get bare metal at the contact points. I typically use Deoxit D100L (red liquid that comes in what looks like a nail polish bottle) on all electrical connections before hooking them up to keep it free of rust/corrosion. If you’ve done that and it still doesn’t work then try and have someone turn the lights on and off at the stalk while you listen to the relay. I don’t know if you’ll hear a click if you put your ear close to it but you can also take a screwdriver and put the handle end in to your ear and touch the relay with the head (it’ll act like a stethoscope). If you aren’t hearing a click replace the relay. You can also try jumping the circuit using a piece of wire to connect the lead to the open (as in on) point. I don’t remember the numbers on the bottom of the relays but you can probably find a technical article on this here on the forum (or maybe someone else remembers which numbers are witch?). If you jump it and the lights go on the internals of the relay aren’t working or they are stuck (possibly from corrosion). Again you would want to replace the relay. Electrical issues are a pain in the arse. Good luck!!!