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MildSeven

Solex
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Everything posted by MildSeven

  1. I'm just saying, that's what peeps do ("everybody's doin' it, man"). I don't know enough on the subject nor would I want to run them or even re-drill wheels.
  2. Mine doesn't return to 0 Not sure what specs are needed but I have a '76 and I believe I have a 3.64 diff. thanks, Anthony
  3. This is true, I saw a pair on vwvortex a couple of weeks ago. To use them you would need to purchase some "wobble nuts." I think they could look pretty nice though
  4. If I'm not mistaken, it wouldn't work with the channel anymore because it would be too slim. Also on another note, everyone is looking for a solution to make URO (or other brand seals work well), some people may have show cars others may have rust buckets... we're all in this together
  5. there was no melting? also... here's my recent URO install issue for reference...doesn't look as bad as what you're describing.
  6. Cold is much, much better than heat for the tar (on the floors), for the behind rear bench, heat worked fine. The pieces chip out instead of melting out, much cleaner. FYI, Even a little tar residue will have an ill affect on the wire brush, wasn't fun. I think some of the rust you have there looks worse than it is... and a grinder will help you. When I started on my 2002, I didn't know much either, now I don't know much but I almost have a nice 2002. good luck. for reference (the photos of rust on my 2002): https://flic.kr/s/aHsk9bDyAZ
  7. If the local folks don't bite (because I assume that's easier for you), I'm interested.
  8. this thing... anyone have? Price shipped to Montreal, Canada (H9S 2S4)? thanks! Anthony
  9. Someone posted this a while back for me... not the best image quality... but has colours.
  10. I'll report back how the 3m Super 90 holds up... so no one makes the same mistake I may have made. but 2 notes on my application... 1. I live in Montreal. Where a hot summer day is 33'c in the summer and like 40'c with humidity (feels like), that's 104'f. I don't imagine the sun can take the roof of the car over to 200'f (93'c) but I might be wrong. 2. The material I used is super light. (EZ cool, less than 2lbs for 40sq') I guess we could see how well it holds up on the firewall as well.
  11. I have a '76, not sure if it's original but I have 2 horns. i think you're already on the right track.. but just in case. if you ground the brass ring, around the steering column, the horn will sound. I'd work my way backward from there.
  12. thanks! The part on your carpet hasn't been written yet Shit, I really hope it can stand up to the heat :S The foam panels are SUPER light though, I think the whole 40sq' role was 2lbs shipping weight.
  13. Avoiding the subject concerning the benefits... I simply avoided the area around the heater box opening, so that the heated box could be installed without being impeded by the dynamat. Other than that obviosuly any openings ("holes) for wires or wire clips. I used a combination of dynamat lite and some EZ Cool foam insulation. Details in my blog: Dynamat: EZ Cool:
  14. so what was the unknown wire for?
  15. ya, I didn't consider the length. In the photos, the only colour I can make out is brown.
  16. here... connects to #5 (coolant sensor), unless I'm wrong about the wire.
  17. looks like the coolant temp sender wire. edit.. dug up a photo from my disassembly album. You can see it plugged in here at the bottom/center of the photo on top of the coolant divider.
  18. Thanks for the replies. It's for a '76 Part needed vs purchased part (from ECS, Part # 51711813507 ) My door sill thanks! Anthony
  19. that;s my issue as well, are these rivets supposed to be visible? it looks horrible :s
  20. I'm in the exact same position as you... Did you find out the correct part number?
  21. Ok, so I installed the EL-13 relay from rock auto (Tridon/Novita brand). It was under $6. Everything works. I do find the flash to be very slightly slower but I can't remember what stock sounded like The issues in the end... My hazard switch was messed up... A bulb in the rear, was functional but not making contact with the terminal Hazard relay was finished. this made my life easier for the EL-13, didn't have to use diagram:
  22. I followed these instructions, thanks for the write up. My pointers/comments... Rope: I doubled up the rope because I wasn't sure if I should have (based on the instructions). For the rear windshield, it wasn't useful as it went well. In the front, I was happy I did it. A small section along the bottom corner the rubber wasn't pulled it by the first string but the second one did the job. I think it's good insurance and would do it again on front and rear. Silicon, do a super thin bead of silicon (I thought I was putting a thin one but apparently not thin enough). It squeezes out the sides and is not fun to clean off the paint. This is the lockstrip tool I purchased (Lisle 47000): https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000COA1CQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 thanks again for the write-up! Anthony
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