MildSeven

in case anyone looks up this thread (as I did)... I'm adding a 'clearer' image from my disassembly

I was just looking in to the same question last night + today. Also with a '76. From what I've read, it depends on the coil you're using. I have red bosch and I need to re-add a resisted wire. I believe I had 2 wires which went to the fuse box (the photos i took of the disassembly aren't clear). I know 1 needs to be connected back to #12. I'm thinkin about putting the 2nd one back, even if it doesn't do anything to be safe :p. I have 2 which connect to the coil which were part of the smog wiring harness. the connector just right of 12 o'clock in the photo, and the connector just to the left of 6 o'clock.

The cork V. Reinz gasket I bought was leaking (through bolt holes) following the install... I tightened to bolts slightly (about a month ago), seems to be okay now but I did follow the advice of others and ordered a paper gasket which I haven't yet installed. The motor is out of the car so I figure better safe than sorry before I put it back in. I ordered this one but have not installed it yet, it's MTC (as Steven suggested) but cheaper (especially for shipping to Canada). http://www.ebay.ca/itm/141913036900?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I ordered that same linkage kit (but not from IE). I looked in to buying throttle brackets with the tab on the other side (the proper side), but I think they were like $11 a piece or something and being the cheap SOB that I am... I did the same as you. The motor still isn't back in yet, what's your plan for a throttle return spring? PS: I'm digging the wrinkle look.

worth a try, anyone have one for sale?

The hood seals on each side, my car didn't come with them. BMW part #s 41615480195 & 41615480196 thanks, Anthony

I believe the part number is 51131830810 in good condition... like this: thanks, Anthony

cool beans!

ooooohhhhhh, the plot thickens

found!

BMW part # 32211113178 the one with the weird head for safety lock wire. EDIT: here's a photo: just fishing for the part to save a few bucks.... especially on shipping. thanks

i found this one too, says it's manufactured by "MTC" like what you posted but selling for less moulah. http://www.ebay.com/itm/141913036900?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I also dropped the motor/tranny + sub frame out the bottom. Easy peasy... (and if I'm saying that... it is, because i didn't have much experience before starting this (on-going) project) - Make sure everything is disconnected from the engine (& tranny) and remove anything which will give you more space to drop it (e.g. radiator). - Place some chocs behind the rear wheels. - Jack front up a little... use extra jack with wood (or ATV jack if you have) to support the sub frame. I also used a candle stick to hold the transmission (and would lower it as the motor was lowered. o You should be 2 people, we were 2 but 3 would be better. o We had 2 jacks, 1 to raise car, 1 to support sub frame/engine/tranny. o 3 candle sticks or other support. - Support the sub frame/engine/tranny in the center of the subframe with 1 jack (which has wheels) o Assuming everything else is disconnected, undo the remaining 6 bolt which secure the sub frame to the chassis. o The subframe / engine / tranny will now be resting on the jack. - Use the other jack to raise the car (on one side at a time, using the candle sticks to support each time) - Do this slowly watch that the motor is clearing everything and that you didn't forget anything connected (like I did with the pedal box throttle cable + reverse light wires). - You should also be able to drop the sub frame/motor/tranny with the jack which was holding the subframe up - Once you have the clearance to roll the motor out the front on the jack, do it. I have a lot of photos in my flicker account... I used some leftover 2x4s to make the frame support using the 6 sub frame bolts. (they connect across the middle)