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About Jam3422

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Seattle

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  1. I forgot to mention, those hours included removing and rehanging the door.
  2. I just had the lower skin and bottom replaced on one of my doors. The metal guy made his own panels, so I can't comment on how well the available repair panels fit. He carefully disassembled the lower door skin from the bottom in an attempt to save the original metal, but advised new metal to prevent the rust from coming back. It's pretty labor intensive to do correctly, thus not cheap. I think it ended up being around 10 billed hours, maybe a little more. I wish I would have taken more photos now... Andy
  3. Jam3422

    Seattle area cars and coffee?

    James - good idea, sounds fun. My car is currently in pieces, but once it's back together, I'd definitely show up. Another option - I had the metal work on my car done by Elliot at The Shop (https://theshopclubs.com/) in Sodo. They host a lot of car gatherings, and he offered to set one up for the 2002 crowd if there's some interest in that. They have a good bar with good food. Thanks Andy
  4. Jam3422

    Steering drop arm removal

    Sorry, Amazon. Quite a while ago, but I see it's still available. I'm pretty sure this is the size I have. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-8150-Conical-Pitman-Puller/dp/B00061SMS0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2M7ZXEF4A4GMX&keywords=pitman+arm+puller&qid=1552670592&s=gateway&sprefix=pitman%2Caps%2C219&sr=8-5
  5. Jam3422

    Steering drop arm removal

    $40ish, maybe less, works great, has never failed me. Very similar to the BMW tool Einspritz covets.
  6. Jam3422

    ti pedal linkage info

    Hal: Here's the linkage from my ti - hope it helps. Let me know if you need more detailed measurements. Andy
  7. Unfortunately, I agree with COOP. It's a shame, but from the photos and description, it's hard to tell if this is a really nice car or not. Even in the poor photos, there are plenty of nits to pick, but that certainly doesn't mean it isn't a nice car. I do like that it retains features that appear unique to the Canadian ti, including the US headlight buckets, bumper over riders, and mph speedometer. I think it's also interesting that Granada seems to have been a popular color for Canadian ti's, that's three fully functioning examples I can think of. it's also interesting that the car does not have rear defrost, given delivery to a cold climate. One thing for sure, that car had a lot of rust.
  8. Jam3422

    2002Ti Info Thread

    Here's the 1600ti owners manual - it does have some shots of various parts of the engine bay. Andy 1600ti owners manual.pdf
  9. Jam3422

    2002Ti Info Thread

    Nate: Here are the only two 1600ti brochures I am aware of. They don't show much of the engine bay, just the PHHs. I checked BMW archives, and they don't have any additional info I could find. You might try digging around their archives though. Andy 1600ti brochure english.pdf 1600_1600ti brochure.pdf
  10. Jam3422

    Annual 02-02-02 Meet

    Right, those are really rare. Sorry, I should have been more specific - car is an early 71 ti, so not an unusual style at all. Just looking for the right nipple, and one in nice condition. I could get a rough one vapor blasted, but I am trying to avoid stuff from looking "new". Are you bringing one of your cars? Thanks
  11. Jam3422

    Annual 02-02-02 Meet

    I'm looking for a nice (no powdercoat) valve cover for an early carbureted car, so if anyone has one, please bring it... Thanks
  12. Jam3422

    2002Ti Info Thread

    Cool, thanks. Any idea of the date? Electric fuel pump too.
  13. Jam3422

    Front Bumper Bracket Attachment

    Fantastic, thanks a lot for the quick info guys.
  14. The front bumper bracket (#15 below, the "bow") on one side of my car has been welded to the frame rail instead of being attached with two bolts (#8 below). The car is an early 71 2002ti, so it's a euro bumper. The guy doing the metal work on my car wants to make it correct, but we are unsure if the bolts are essentially captive bolts (not sure what those are called), or if there is supposed to be two captive nuts in the frame rail to receive two studs, which then attach the bow with nuts. I'm leaning towards option 1 given the parts drawing, but want to be sure. Thanks Andy