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About Jam3422

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  1. Like James, I also am finishing up assembling my car after metal work and paint. You can spend $35k for paint in Seattle if you want to, but there are alternatives. I ended up having the metal work done in Seattle, then hauling my car 60 miles north of Seattle for paint. Doing business in Seattle has become so expensive, car related shops are closing and/or moving at an alarming rate. Even gas stations are becoming harder to find. Fortunately for us 2002 folks, Midnight Motorsports (Patrick) is thriving. Feel free to pm me, and I can fill you in on what I know about paint/metal work in the area. Also, I don't know how well you know Seattle, but if you are planning on living in Seattle proper, garages are quite rare (though not impossible to find), and car storage is pretty expensive. You can rent garages, but most/many prohibit working on cars. However, I agree with other posters - bring your project with you if you can make it work.
  2. There's always Terry Tinney http://www.terrytinney.com/, not that far from Sacramento. He's probably really busy, but most of the good ones are.
  3. I'm in - points, condenser, grew up down the road from Kettering, OH.
  4. The thread Ed posted a link to is a good one. Absent the BMW tool, which I keep threatening to replicate, there's no way I have found to get the float levels exactly right without a lot of driving and adjusting. Your method of measuring the distance between the carb body and adjusting nut will get you close enough to get the car running. After that, I suggest getting the carbs tuned pretty well in your garage/driveway with an AFR gauge, and then going for a drive. I found the best float level for my PHHs is just high enough so there's no leaning out/stumbling while aggressively cornering or stopping. A quarter of a turn makes a noticeable difference when you are getting close to the ideal level. The blue books specify the float height adjustment per full turn. I've been toying with the idea of replacing the gas reservoir that's part of the BMW tool with an electric fuel pump and adjustable regulator. That would simplify making a bench tool quite a bit. It's on the list of winter projects, but I'm not optimistic I'm going to get to it.
  5. I'm looking forward to it too. It's good motivation to get my car back together in the next couple of months. Geoff, sad to say, that's a good price for a 38 cm Petri...
  6. Crazy huh? Their pricing seems to be all over the place. The other parts guy there is very old car parts friendly, maybe I should have waited to ask him.
  7. I'm also looking for a clear windshield. So far, I have only been able to find green ones locally (Seattle). I checked with the local BMW dealer today - $628 for a clear one... If anyone finds a source for clear aftermarket windshields, please let us know.
  8. Paul: W&N still has them at a reasonable price - but there's that shipping cost issue. Otherwise, I have one with a chunk missing from one side you can have.
  9. I'm looking for the early, smaller 15 mm (the actual size may be 14 mm) coolant nipple that connects to the hose leading to the heater valve. It should have 18 mm threads on the head end of the nipple. Does anyone have a trashed 121 head they would be willing to wrench the nipple off? Thanks Andy
  10. Yes, thanks very much to Trieu for making these harnesses. That's what makes this place great - someone coming up with an innovative solution to a problem, and then going out of their way to help others with the same problem. Andy
  11. Thanks Jim, I'll get in touch with him.
  12. The wiring harness for my ti clock is long gone - some PO has done some funky wiring I'm in the process of correcting. I could build something that would work fine, but I'd really like to have the factory harness with the 3-prong connector at the instrument panel. Thanks Andy
  13. Body nuts go in the holes. The outer "sleeve" for the ashtray goes in the big hole.
  14. The BMW Alpina book (James Taylor) says the A2 engine, introduced September 1969, used 45mm DCOEs, 300 degree cam, 39mm intake valves, 10.5:1, etc. The book also says the A3 engine used the 45s, and the A1 used 40 mm Solex DDHs.
  15. Interesting, wrong dash, console, and 12 fuses. Beautiful car though. It would be interesting to see the VIN. Thanks for posting photos.
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