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bnam

Solex
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Everything posted by bnam

  1. Speedo is also avail new from WuN. I bought the right one for my lsd conversion from them. B
  2. I've had great experience with WuN as well. Parts in 4 days. And sometimes the prices are much better than US sources to make the higher shipping worthwhile.
  3. My car had one on it when I first got it. Ran it that way for about a 1000miles. Then switched to regular tensioner. Avail for sale if you want it. B
  4. This picture makes it clear for me. No lock plate. Still got to contend with the loc-tite.
  5. Al, Do you have Boge inserts in front with the H&R? My car currently has HDs in the back and stock (Boges) up front. I'm thinking of leaving it like that when I insert the H&R. And then decide if I want to change the front to HDs as well. Byas
  6. Two more angles. And, I ran a dental pick along the edge and it did not catch on anything.
  7. Is the lockplate on? Doesn't seem like it is, unless it's what looks like a washer behind the nut. Any pic of the installed lock plate so I can compare? Byas
  8. Yes, the bar rests on the ground. There seems to be something between the threads and flange, as I was able to scrape some of it off with a small screw driver -- so probably loc-tited. The last install was done by Schatz and Krumm right after I got the car 2 years ago. They probably installed the loc-tite when replacing the seal. I need to go get propane heater to heat the joint and try again. I do have a cheap cordless impact wrench, but don't have a big compressor and proper air impact wrench. Byas
  9. bnam

    Home Stereo

    Sonos - that's the way to go. I've installed a Sonos Connect to the rcvr in my tv room, Sonos 5 and 3s elsewhere.
  10. It works just fine and has for 7K+miles. Won't attempt to change it for now. Got too many things going on -- suspension - springs, bushings; driveshaft, output seal etc. The fluid-in nipple is angled to the left in this pic. If this had been mounted correctly, it would have canted towards the gearbox leaving space for a long extension to reach the upper nut. But, since the bleed screw is not canted -- in this inverted position -- I think there is even less space to get at the nut from behind.
  11. Lock plate? Oops -- I removed no such thing. Will check for it in the AM. How do I remove that? B
  12. Better than soldering -- properly crimped, should not have a corrosion issue -- at the wire to connector interface.
  13. While my driveshaft is at IE being shortened by 14mm, I plan to replace the output flange seal. I bought a thinwalled 30mm deep socket and built a lever with angle iron. But, I'm not able to budge the nut with a 1/2" breaker bar. There's not enough room to use a pipe over the breaker bar to increase leverage -- though will try to raise the car a bit more tomorrow (did buy taller 6-ton jack stands). There's a place nearby called u-do-it which is a diy garage with racks/lifts and tools for the diy to use. Perhaps I need to install the drive shaft and take my car there and see if I can get more leverage when it is up on the lift. Byas
  14. In a recent thread by hackmechanic (I think) I had posted the question -- can the slave cylinder be mounted upside down, and will that make it easier to remove? To my surprise I found out today that the slave cylinder on my car was mounted inverted by the PO. So I can answer my two questions -- yes and no. It's been working like that for about 7000 miles now. I took a half hearted try at loosening the top nut, but I'm inclined to let this sleeping dog lie. Byas
  15. Use proper oem style connectors and a quality crimp tool. The joints will be better than soldering. Don't use the crappy crumpets from auto part stores. For wires thin wall automotive wires are best.
  16. The "sleeve" you have seems similar to what the dealer installed on my '74. It was really just a cloth braided hose split open and zip tied over the hose. The hoses in my cars case were braided hoses not the foam insulated ones.
  17. was it every printed? Mine does not have it on the engine bay plate either -- but it does on the door sticker. byas
  18. I prefer to have some more dish to the wheels. The prototipo looks flat to me. For a cheap sports wheel -- the '79-84 FIat spider wheels were Momo designed (branded as Ferraro) and use the same mounting. Those are often avail cheap or in PnP yards. Byas
  19. Tom, On you web page of non-bmw baur like cars, the car with the 5 bar logo is a Fiat. /F/I/A/T/ changed their logo at one point (late 80s or so) to just the 5 bars ///// before going back to the round badge. Byas
  20. Thanks! Checking with them now. Just noticed they don't carry rear bushings. B
  21. $195+tax+shipping for 1 OEM balljoint? Seriously? Byas
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