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jireland2002 last won the day on September 2

jireland2002 had the most liked content!

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  1. some suggestions- I never run the battery cable under the car where it can be damaged. I run it thru the passenger compartment but not near the fuel line. Slip a rubber hose over it anywhere it can chafe (some for fuel lines). For track cars we always install a cutoff. I put it at the A-pillar by the driver. You need to wire the ignition to the switch as well if you want the engine to stop when you turn it off. I think a fuse is a bad idea. The starter draws a lot of amps and the fuse will probably blow leaving you dead on the grid.
  2. I bought a 700 sport years ago and did a bunch of work to it then it sat for a few years. We're now back at it.
  3. If you want a small plastic push in plug -- try McMaster-Carr on line
  4. You did not say where you are or where the car is. My advice is -- If you really want the car and it is a very good deal, just go get it before someone else does. You can always get a title if it's not on the stolen car list. If it's just a so so deal then maybe not.
  5. Even if there is no title you can get a new title as long as it not on the stonen car list. Get a bill of sale and any other paper work they might have for chain of owner ship.
  6. If the car has not been registered (in CA) for a long time it will not be in the system. So no back taxes/fees. You will need paper work (bill of sale, pink slip etc) and you must get the vin checked (probably by the CHP or maybe by AAA). Then you can get a new title and non-op it. If there is a problem with the paper work, there are a number of "fixers" mostly ex-dmv empolyees that will make it work for a few bucks. You could apply for a "historical vehicle" license. The state computer system is probably looking for the new type vin numbers. Post the vin and one of us will tell you when it was made.
  7. You better install a wide band O2 gauge. The l-jet will run lean and you'll need to know so you don't damage the engine.
  8. The key is the rust. If there is no rust in the underside of the chassis, buy it. Also - Get the vin # to see the build date.
  9. Look at McMaster-Carr. They have a lot of this type stuff.
  10. We have the rebuild kits for most common Webers
  11. Yes probably repairable. But if you bought it relatively recently we replace it.
  12. The latest rear subframe mounts from the BMW dealer are VERY soft rubber. In my opinion much softer than from years ago. Soft mounts allow the rear subframe to move under lateral loads. The result is rear steer. The car feels like the rear end is loose (oversteer) at corner entry. After it takes a set the remainder of the corner feels mostly ok, but the initial unsettled handling makes most drivers uncomfortable. I personally would not use the current stock of factory rubber subframe mounts without filling the voids.
  13. We have about 50 set in stock. IE Motorsport
  14. Those are nice deep valve reliefs. Any cam should work fine as long as you get the timing chain on correctly.
  15. Quick check for air leaks and any loose nuts etc. "most carb problems are really ignition problems" Check distributor- rotor, cap, points etc.
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