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Simeon

Alpina
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Everything posted by Simeon

  1. Another arrangement to look for that works (and I have run this in the past) is to run the main negative cable from the battery to the block (an 8mm bolt directly opposite the battery on the block) and then another cable with a lug at both ends from the same bolt on the block to a solid bolt on the body (in my case one of the mounting bolts for the RHD brake boosters into the inner wing). It doesn’t matter how they are connected as long as the battery negative terminal, block and body are all well connected together.
  2. The bolts through the casting at the bottom of the strut tube into the steering arm at the bottom are special bolts. These are a very high grade fastener with provisions for safety wiring into place. If you need to replace these then you are better replacing them like-for-like with the correct BMW part. They are not cheap for what they are but it will save you some headaches.
  3. Your distributor has an advance / retard vacuum capsule. The retard function (I forget which side is which) should be left disconnected. The retard function was part of the original emissions system and was controlled by solenoid valves to be cut in under certain circumstances. You definitely don’t need it to run with your Webers.
  4. Weld in battery tray has a hole with one of the large self tappers (similar to the radiator bolts) through one of its rear edges. Certainly that’s how mine is arranged.
  5. Is that... e30 steel wheels used with beauty rings? Where did you get the rings from? Are they an e30 figment or generic?
  6. This will be the correct answer ultimately but we can slowly edge towards that by peeling the head off the engine.
  7. The mechanism relies on the crimped in plate at the bottom holding the gear and worm in mesh. This is staked in place and not adjustable but you could try re-staking that to take up some slack. If your mechanism is loose, this could be a sign that something else has collapsed internally allowing the worm and gear to separate slightly. The only option might be to replace it.
  8. I would check with the manufacturer about the feasibility of putting two in parallel. The ‘clever’ parts of the battery management system onboard each battery might not like it.
  9. This is the one Hal. You let me down, I was going to live vicariously through you. ?
  10. This is true. The rear bolt on the exhaust side of the engine. If you flip or swap the hardened head bolt washer when you have the head off and it doesn’t cleanly fit back into the dimple in the aluminium head it can leak oil from the bolt. I had this once and undid the bolt a few threads (so oil doesn’t get into the hole in the block) and added some sealant under the washer. I then re-torqued the bolt. No leak and no issues.
  11. Slightly off topic; I am wondering if @halboyles received the steering box rebuild kit from Argentina?
  12. It doesn’t need much. I literally went to Bunnings and got a roll of closed cell EPDM rubber self adhesive draught excluder section. Maybe 10mm wide by 5mm deep. You could also also use a good bead of seam sealer applied with a caulk gun.
  13. Disconnect your regulator and try and start it again. See how it does that time. Don’t run the engine for more than a few seconds though without it in circuit. If you are still having starter problems then I suspect a poor ground connection. It might not be your regulator that is actually smoking and possibly be the smallish brown ground wires attached in that vicinity (potentially to the mounting screws of the regulator). This could be a sign of your starter trying to ground out the the small grounds.
  14. The cam timing (the relationship between the cam and the crankshaft) can be used to adjust where max power appears in the engine speed range. This is not a huge range of adjustment however, and your mechanic would need to be careful that there is enough space between open valves and the piston top. The standard arrangement sees the cam timing based on TDC from the factory though the actual position of the cam varies depending upon how much has been cut from the head or block in its lifetime. Shorter the head and block, the closer the cam is to the crank and the shorter the timing chain needs to be. Often people may use an adjustable timing sprocket to ‘lose’ some of this extra timing chain length, more as a way to advance the cam timing back to its standard location. As for the noise - did your mechanic bleed the air from the hydraulic timing chain tensioner?
  15. Is the caliper centred over the rotor? Could it be rubbing against the piston when fully retracted?
  16. +1 to this. I would clean it up and size the job before getting into a roof replacement. A few pin holes can be drilled out to clean them up and then plug welded closed with a chunk of copper on the inside to prevent heat distortion and support the weld. If the holes are confined to the section near the roof opening then I would even consider cutting a patch as the frame underneath will limit distortion.
  17. They wouldn’t specify a tapered plug for a parallel thread. I would suspect that you are supposed to use some kind of thread sealant with that. If it’s a feature of later engines, I wonder if there are details of how it is fitted in the shop manual for a later car (e30 at a guess).
  18. If the engine stays cool at speed and under load then there is nothing structurally wrong with your cooling system. More air through the radiator at low speed is required. I would say that you need more fan (you didn’t say what size fan you have). Also, how sure are you that the fan is running the correct direction to push air?
  19. I would treat that with a rust converter after a good wire brush (a twisted strand brush in and angle grinder would be good) and the paint with a 2 pack epoxy primer to seal it.
  20. 30 minutes with a DA sander and some #80 discs would sort any of those roof panels out.
  21. The middle screwdriver is a cuckoo in the nest. There is supposed to be a pair of slip joint pliers in there.
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