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About gregp553

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  1. Thanks Larry. I still don't know what I'm doing with electrical, but I did wire this thing from the installed lights to a relay, then into the car to a period correct green switch. The seller of this car put these on because he liked the look of the fogs, matching the color of the turn indicators. I agree, the color match is nice, and I hear what you're saying. The fogs will be used almost never, but I will consider your advice. Care to guess why changing to these incandescents suddenly solved the problem. Do you think the others were duds, despite looking pristine? Thanks again. Greg
  2. That didn't do it. Bought 2 incandescent bulbs, took out the Halogens that look perfect, and the incandescents work! They work!! This is why I hate electrical. I don't know what makes something not work, and I don't know why they do work. Is my generic relay only good for incandescent? Are the perfect-looking halogens bad? I don't know, but I'm calling this a win. Thanks for all the tips.
  3. It must be these bulbs, even though they look perfect. Here is a tester, grounded to the light housing and stuck into the bulb connection. And it lights up. It's gotta be the bulbs. I hate electrical because I don't know what I'm doing. When I grounded the light housing, the lights still do not come on. Am I crazy, an idiot or . . .
  4. I should say, in the rectangular cutout. The round one is where the lead wire is.
  5. It's a 72 but the bumper mount might still be the issue. Is the little round cutout on the base of the bulb a place I can attach a ground?
  6. Thanks! I read many articles, I think this one, too. The bulbs look brand new and there's no extra tab to ground them. The green button allows 12v to the housings. I suspect I need to figure out a way to ground the lights themselves. The lights are mounted to the bumper. Thanks for the input.
  7. Fog lights with single wire connections came on my car. I added a green correct switch in the console. The green light comes on the switch only when the headlights are on low beams. A new generic relay installed. Power comes to both fog lights (volt meter reads 12.12) when correct switches are enabled. Fog lights do not come on. Are the halogen bulbs the issue? They both look new. Do I need a better relay for halogens? There's no connection on the halogen bulbs for a ground. Is it a ground issue? New bulbs needed? Please help, my limited electrical skills can't handle this one.
  8. gregp553


    Restored in 2016. Original matching numbers, believed to be 87,xxx original miles. Original California car, moved to NJ, Massachusetts, AZ and Indiana. BEHR AC, Blaupunkt radio, and fresh interior.
  9. Instrument pod refresh. Cleaned, new bulbs; what a difference it makes.
  10. Yup. I drove the Dream Cruise, the car drove like a dream for 2-3 hours straight of 50 mph, 25 and traffic jam crawl. Not a hiccup. Got home and saw the little weep on the block like above. Funny thing is, when I drove extensively like this the head weeped but didn't drip when I parked it. When I drive short bursts to test for the leak it drips. Guess I'll live with it for now and drive longer. Win-win. Thanks for all the input. I'll update this someday if I ever go into the engine.
  11. I removed the air filter housing and got the best view yet of all the places oil could be leaking from the timing chain cover back. That's not it. The distributor housing is not leaking. The valve cover is not leaking. I wadded up a small 3" cotton medical pad and stuffed it right next to the base of the head exactly where the wet spot appears in my photo above. After a drive, the pad was full of oil, at least it looked like and smelled like oil. Seems hard to believe it's water/anti-freeze based on the visual of it. So, as impossible as it seems for oil to leak there from the head gasket, I'm stumped. I'm going on a 50 mile drive tomorrow for the Woodward Dream Cruise with a few thousand muscle cars, and it's either going to be fine or not so fine. Wish me luck.
  12. Drove it for 30 minutes. Leaked. Walking away from it for a couple days.
  13. I checked with a mirror, got under it, etc. Cleaned it with some brake cleaner, and drove it. Here is a clear picture of the leak after my drive. So, I re-cleaned, figured I had nothing to lose, and gave each bolt on the distributor housing a little tug. Test drove again and I did not see a leak. I have been fooled before, so time will tell. More later.
  14. Thanks for the insight, and it's so funny you say that. I actually left the hood unlatched in case I had to open it in a hurry! Ha! I will use a mirror to look further, but it just seems like when I get back from a drive, and there is fresh oil on the block as seen in the photo, I should be able to get some on my hand when I run it around the distributor housing or valve cover if that's where it leaks. More later.

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