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02for2

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  1. 02for2
    If you have one pinhole, you have significant internal corrosion and are well on the way to several more leaks. There are DIY kits out there, but these generally are not very good, and a DIYer cannot usually sufficiently clean the inside of the tank to fix the issue. You can buy new, or used replacements. But, these are either not as reliable, or not as cheap and having the tank professionally repaired. There are several franchise companies doing this work. The very best is moyers - http://www.gas-tank.com/ You send them your tank, and they turn it around to you with a lifetime warranty. They have 50+ yrs. experience. A tank renewed by Moyers, is cheaper... and better, than a brand new tank. Plus it is guaranteed for life. Cheers!
  2. 02for2
    Hopefully, you didn't impact the battery with the charger. If the battery is 5 yrs. old or if it has been discharged 5 or more times... ditch it! The SAE published a study showing that a battery loses it's ability to hold a charge, on avg., by 15% with each discharge. After 5-6 discharges, the battery is incapable of recharging even the amount that is drawen from it for a single engine start. So, if your battery falls into this category, there may be no other cause than this. Assuming that the battery is OK, you need to pull the positive terminal and hook up a DMM (digital multi-meter) between the positive terminal of the battery, and the positive post on the battery itself. Set the DMM to VDC (smallest scale allowable). This will show you if there is any drain on the battery.(if you have a stereo with a clock and presets, disconnect it now because it is a source of battery drain). Once hooked up, start removing fuses, one by one, keeping an eye on the DMM. When the voltage drops to 0, you have found the offending circuit. Now check all wiring, connections and grounds in that circuit to fix the problem. Cheers!
  3. 02for2
    Not likely the starter is shot after so few miles - esp. since it worked OK up to now. Suspect poor wiring connections, or the engine last stopped at a point not allowing the bendix gear to mate with the ring gear. First thing to do is push the car forward about a foot while in 5th gear. This will rotate the engine to a different point on the ring gear. If no-joy, un-do all the starter connections one at a time, clean them and re-attach. If still no-joy, check all fuses, check for power to the starter when the key is in start position. If still no-joy, suspect ignition switch. Remove the electric switch from the back of the ignition, and check for continuity at all the positions while rotating the switch. Cheers!
  4. 02for2
    Looks Good! Cheers!
  5. 02for2
    This definitely points to one or the other supply (hot) wires shorting to ground somewhere, when you add the additional (correct) ground by screwing it to the body, it overloads the circuit and blows the fuse. With a DMM: •Remove the power feed (i.e. fuse, control module) from the suspect circuit. •Disconnect the load. •Set the rotary dial of the DMM to the ohm (Ω) position. •Connect one lead of the meter to one end of the circuit to be tested. •Connect the other lead of the meter to a good ground. •If the DMM does NOT display infinite resistance (∞ or OL), there is a short to ground in the circuit. Here is another helpful primer on using a DMM on all sorts of automotive diagnosis: http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf Cheers!
  6. 02for2
    Ditto! If you use plastic screws, you will not complete the circuits at all, no short or anything else either... like lights that light. Cheers!
  7. 02for2
    Both sides are 'hot'... there are two circuits with a common ground - it's a two filament bulb - 1 for running lights and one for turn indicator. The common ground is through the mounting screws to the body. Make sure that there is no contact between the two wires, or terminals. Make sure there isn't corrosion or conducting debris in the bulb socket which could cause the short. Absent any of this, you're just going to have to trace/inspect both wires for cracks, pinches, etc. Cheers!
  8. 02for2
    Then there is the school of thought that were you to 'repair' the switch, and it did indeed last several years as the previous reply suggests, what are the prospects that the replacement switch will still be available when the repaired switch finally gives up the ghost, the car is now 45 yrs. old and a replacement is NLA? It may be prudent to consider biting the bullet now and replace it, repair the old switch as shelf stock, if ever needed. The answer will depend a great deal on what your longterm plans for the car may be. Cheers!
  9. 02for2
    The 2002 has what is termed a course spline on the steering column. Sometime in 1984, BMW switched to a fine spline, so all wheels produced after that date will not work. I have an M-Tech wheel from an early e28 5 series in my car. The splines worked, but the horn contact is reversed. The brass/copper contact ring normally mounted on the steering column housing of the '02 is incompatible with these wheels. I was able to shape a delrin spacer with a dremel to hold the carbon contact pin, retaining the contact ring on the M-Tech steering wheel with little difficulty. By removing the 0.5" spacer from my steering column, I was able to mount the new wheel and fit the spacer with no difficulty. It works the charm. Cheers!
  10. 02for2
    dug, as mentioned, we formed a loose association last fall and have added numerous fellows since. We had quite a showing at 2 major car events this year. Also held a couple nice wrenching parties and social gatherings. We are planning a couple upcoming events, and some more wrenching. We are trying to organize a good showing at the annual Wheels & Wings show in Osceola, WI on Sept. 10. - http://vil.osceola.wi.us/index.asp?Type=B_BASIC&SEC={3702C8FE-96CB-430E-8AE3-A05DF5EDFCC5} Contact me via the email button and I'll include you into our group base. Cheers!
  11. 02for2
    Looking for a complete set of Black interior door handles/armrests in G to VG condition. Will not consider torn, bent or visibly worn. Pics appreciated. Reply using email button. Immed. Paypal pymnt. TIA! Cheers!
  12. 02for2
    The DCOM was to be a replacement for the DCOE, but not a direct replacement. It was designed to be more emissions friendly, consequently, it is more difficult to tune. The most notable difference is that it has a diapram type accelerator pump instead of the DCOEs piston type. It has vacuum take-offs for the dizzy as well as for other emissions appliances. It has not been produced in huge numbers due to the predominance of EFI. You will find that it is jetted to be much leaner (for emissions purposes) and if using it on an M10 motor, you'll likely end up going 3-4 steps up in both the idle and main jets to get satisfactory performance. Set up properly, they are possibly slightly 'better' than the DCOE in performance. But they were designed to be tuned with an exhaust gas analyzer as opposed to a flow meter. The goal being to achieve favorable CO, HC and CO2 values rather than max performance. Cheers!
  13. 02for2
    There are different grades of clay. The stuff sold to consumers is harmless, but does a good job of eliminating paint contaminates. Use diluted dishwashing liquid as mentioned. Claying with industrial clays such as body shops use can be too abrasive, so go with Mothers, Griots, Zaino and you'll be fine. Realize that you use zero pressure and keep it well wet (lubed). Also, anytime you clay, you also remove the wax/sealant, so plan to re-wax when finished. Cheers!
  14. 02for2
    I said 'Other'. I think the old Buick 215 (aka Rover V8) would make an ideal powerplant for an '02. It's actually lighter than a stock M10 and has way more low-down. I haven't looked too deeply into the possibility, but what I have discovered indicates the swap wouldn't be much more challenging than any of the BMW 6 motors. Cheers!
  15. 02for2
    Congrats! Those in the know know the '76's are faster... I have a 76 also. Two things you need for those tailights: The LED conversion kit from 2002s.net And try Novus Plastic scratch remover/polish/cleaner. This is a 3-step product that really works. An hour of rubbing my taillight lenses one night in front of the TV and they look like new... and mine were not very good to begin with. Cheers!
  16. 02for2
    Interested in #9 and #15. $50 shipped? lemmeno Cheers!
  17. 02for2
    If I'm reading it correctly on their site, they've dropped the rental price to $100. Still spendy, but less so. Cheers!
  18. 02for2
    Head was likely skimmed in the past. This puts the camshaft physically closer to the crank. Since the tensioner is past the sprokets, it results in retarded timing. Haven't done the calculation for the '02, but likely one tooth = 3°-7° retarded timing (+K-Fish). I do know that one tooth on the timing belt on my Lotus Esprit = 6° retard. This is why there are adjustable cam sprokets, so you can recoup the difference. Cheers!
  19. 02for2
    Air... period! Cheers!
  20. 02for2
    Overkill! LMA is sufficient! GTLMA is silicone based. The issue with silicone brake fluids is that it is not hygroscopic - that is, it does not absorb water - the water remains separate. This is a problem because water is heavier than silicone fluid. So, any water introduced in to the system (ambient humidity, rain, car washes, etc.) goes to the lowest point in the braking system. Where??... the calipers! Stick with LMA! Cheers!
  21. 02for2
    It's a 2,000 lb. car... there are no magic pills. The stock brakes work great! Cheers!
  22. 02for2
    That's what I'm using! IIRC, I also used a piece of butyl rubber under the clamps for better adhesion and to prevent marring the bumper. Cheers!
  23. 02for2
    Hotter spark is mostly a bunch of bologney - myth. The spark plug sparks, period. Once the AF starts to combust, the process starts and any spark exceeds the energy necessary to begin the process. Spark duration plays a part (which is why multi-spark CD systems have some merit). Points and to a lesser extent Pertronix have a more gradual release of the energy stored in the coil then either a Crane or ECU spark - these are instant all-in. Probably more important to a mostly stock M10 motor is spark indexing - that is, the open end of the electrode is properly facing the designed Flame Front. This is one reason to stick with the OEM spec plugs. The head was tapped with these in mind so the electrode faces the correct way. But, in discussing a street car, this is all pretty much moot. The subtle differences offer no noticeable advantage. Don't worry about it. Cheers!
  24. 02for2
    Absolutely! But, first take a nylon bristle brush and clean the entire exterior of the carb. Next, take it apart and allow all the parts to soak for 48, not 24 hrs. The Varnish built up will not completely dissolve in 24 hrs. I've seen more than one set of DCOEs fail after reassembly because the owner failed to soak the parts long enough. A 24 hour soak may work... a 48 hour soak will work! Cheers!
  25. 02for2
    Plugs #2,3 and 4 are oil fouled. Plugs which are badly oil fouled can short circuit and display the poor running characteristics you describe. This is often caused by piston rings or cylinder walls that are badly worn. Oil may also be pulled into the chamber because of excessive clearance in the valve stem guides, or badly worn valve stem seals. If the PCV valve is plugged or inoperative, it can cause a buildup of crankcase pressure. This condition can force oil and oil vapors past the rings and valve guides into the combustion chamber. I would suggest that you do a compression and leakdown test on the motor. Swapping plugs will delay having to fix it, but only delay the inevitable. Cheers!
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