02for2

The issue is one of dirty/ misaligned contacts in the flasher relay. Easy DIY - remove relay cover and clean contacts (emery paper, alcohol, etc.) and make sure they're properly aligned with their 'mate'. This'll do it. Cheers!

OK, three times the charm...! Let's try another gathering of the MN/MSP 2002 owners - the Minnes02 Group, before the InterMarque Spring Kick Off! We've had 2 great meets but had several who could not attend. Glutton for punishment, let's go for three! Next saturday, April 30, at the Moose Country . There, I will hand out the reserved parking tickets for the Spring Kick Off on May 14, and a special surprise! Also, exciting news - FIAT of Brookdale has just signed up as one of our sponsors and will have two new 500s at the show, possible test drives! And, I finally convinced a friend to bring his 1925 Bugatti Type35A Race Car to the show. You are probably aware that the Bugatti Type35 is THE winningest Race Car of ALL TIME! Amassing 2,000+ outright victories. I've known Mike for more than 15 yrs. and he always told me his car (one of only 135 produced) had never competed (that's Mike running it in a Vintage Race at Road America in '05 (P13) - No Garage Queen this). I did some research and came up with this on Mike's car, all verified by chassis number: Meetings: - V° Les Alpilles Hill Climb, Avignon, 25th April 1926, E. Proal 1st - Circuit des Gattières, Vence/Nice 4th july 1926, Proal 2nd (to famed Bugatti Race Driver Louis Chiron) - Estérel Climb, Cannes, 1926, E. Proal dnf - X° Mont Agel Hill Climb, Nice, 10th March 1927, E. Proal 1st - V° Estérel Climb, Cannes, 20th March 1927, E. Proal 1st - VI° Les Alpilles Hill Climb, Avignon, 22nd May 1927, E. Proal 1st - Laffrey Hill Climb, Grenoble, 26th June 1927, E. Proal 1st Mike was thrilled and had absolutely no idea his car (which he's owned since '67) had such a storied past. Just seeing this car, which has never been publicly displayed, is truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity, and reason enough to attend the show! So, next Saturday, April 30 @ 1pm. See ya there! Cheers!

With a little luck, the buyer will never have to meet the seller... Cheers!

Would you buy a 76 2002 with no title, no rust or dents $600 ?? Hell YES! Cheers!

Uh.... a little over the past 30 yrs. Advice: Smooth usually equals fast. Trust your hand/eye coordination and constantly look to the gate ahead. If you hit a cone (if not on occaision, you're not pressing), it's now a free run - experiment, don't lift. Pay attention to those in the grid before you and learn from their runs. #1 - HAVE FUN! - It ain't Nuclear Launch Codes. Cheers!

If the speedo is working, then it sounds like an internal issue with the gearing. The Odo/trip counters get their revs from the speedo cable and since the speedo is working, it's likely an internal issue. Cheers!

That's an external voltage regulator. Common upgrade is a later alternator with internal regulator, making this one obsolete. Cheers!

OUCH! Sorry for your troubles! No stranger to unintended modifications myself. I usually don't fool around with bushings - get out the MAP Torch and burn em out, taking care not to overheat the control arm. Then I went Poly which slipped right in. Cheers!

This is exactly my plan. To pull the motor with a cherry picker and place it on a stand to redo the seals, waterpump, starter, manifold, carb, front/rear seals, mounts, install the flywheel (mine's an auto), boil and pressure test the Rad. Then, reassemble the whole thing on the floor, raise the car and drop it back onto the motor/subframe. I think it's the way to go rather than have to attend to engine issues separately a year from now. Cheers!

Weber DCOE's were bred as Race Carbs. As such, there's always a compromise when using them on a street car. You must first decide your goal. Do you want POWER, TORQUE, or MILEAGE? Properly set up, the DCOEs will give you one, maybe two of these, but not all 3 of those chracteristics. The reason for swapping a dizzy with mechanical advance is because the DCOE's do not have a vac take-off to power the vac module on the dizzy. You could drill and tap a take-off from the manifold, but you'll get into lots of other things, so not recommended. You'll need to recurve the dizzy (or get another) so your advance comes in earlier (like the vac advance did). This is a calibrated exchange of weights and springs and must be done by someone with the proper equipment such as a SunTune distributor machine. Advanced Distributors is a company which can convert your old vac advance dizzy to a recurved mechanical one specifically setup for the M10 motor. An ignition with no vacuum advance will require more initial mechanical advance than a vac advanced one for part-throttle tractability. 5 degrees at least and you may end up with 10 degrees or more. But, there is much more to getting a set of DCOE's operating properly. You need to have the correct jetting, incl. altitude compensation and such. Static Timing is important. There are baselines available here using Search, but to truly dial in your motor, you'll likely need to go off these for variances in altitude, individual volumetric efficiency of your motor, avg. local temps, local fuel quality, etc. This can really only be accomplished on a dyno. You may get the car to run by just plugging and playing, but I doubt you'll get max benefit from the carbs until you specifically dial them in. Cheers!

Got me... While clearly a BMW part, there is no record of it in the Mobile Tradition parts search under that number. Cheers!

Not wanting to hi-jack a thread, I decided to post this separately. While reading Clay's thread - Something I've been working on (http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,356705/) I recalled a product I did an article on for a euro vintage magazine I contribute to which would make producing say a Speedo face a breeze. The product is called Front Panel Express. It is basically a service offering one-off CNC'd panels. The unique thing about it is that Front Panel Express gives you the CAD software to design your own panels. These can be replacement NLA panels, or to give an added accessory, such as an Aux. outlet, Stereo, Radar Detector, iPod connection a professional, if not Factory look. It's simple to use (after a little familiarization with the CAD software), and you can keep tweaking your design until you get it exactly the way you want. Once finalized, you simply upload your design file, along with shipping method and payment to Front Panel Express, and 4-5 days later, the finished panel arrives at your door. A variety of materials, in a variety of thicknesses, fonts and colors are available. The cost of the piece is determined by material and essentially the number of cuts required. A simple panel can be produced pretty inexpensively. A more complex panel is naturally more expensive, but will have a very finished, professional apprearance. Check it out. It is totally free until you upload a panel design for them to produce. Cheers!

Beautiful! Reminds me of my '76... someday! Cheers!

Very impressive! It would certainly last me a lifetime because at $755, I'd be dead of Sticker Shock long before Mr. Brown Pants delivered it to my door! I have no doubt that it is the best available, but unless you are making your bread wrenching on cars (and can write-off tool expense), there's just no favorable cost/benefit. For us lowly Shade Tree guys, Harbor Freight (or perhaps a good condition Snap-On ebay find) is the best most of us are gonna do. Cheers!

The P-car seats are nice, but $$$$. You are competing with the deep pockets guys from stuttgart. Cheers!

My car was missing the rear lockstrip which had hardened and broken away in pieces. The gasket needs replacing, so as an interim fix, I went to NAPA and bought 16' of rubber Vac tubing of the appropriate size. The clerk looked at me like I was from Mars - they don't sell that much vac tubing in a month. It was pliable enough to insert by hand (though still a struggle), but sprung back in the channel to 'lock' in place. It is really more appearance than function as the gasket is so old and hard, it's locked into place all on it's own. When I do replace the gasket (at the paintwork stage), I'll go with the Turbo lockstrip. The Lisle tool works great, but not without lots of soapy water in a spray bottle and lots of oomph! Cheers!

My door cards were already cut and had some old cheap speakers installed, though they were probably fairly good back in the day. I tried looking for some uncut panels, but didn't find any as good as mine, despite the speaker holes in them. So, I've decided to remount them on Aardvark panels and swap the old speakers for a nice set of Focals. I'm installing a set of JL audio three-way 6X9s in the rear. At first I was going to cut the back panel, but now I'm looking at some alternatives. I'll keep you all posted. Cheers!

Yes, the Porsche alternative and the Bosche motor produced in Spain both run the opposite way. And, the wires in the car aren't long enough to simply reverse them. That is one of the wires won't reach around. In my case, I just made up a 2.5" extention wire of the same gauge (suggested) with an insulated male spade connector on one end and a female connector on the other. This was long enough to make the connection and reverse the motor direction so the fan blows into the heater box and not out of it. I suppose you could actually reverse the fan on the shaft as well, but making the extention wire is probably simpler. Cheers!

+1... ask me how I know... Cheers!

Not certain yet. My wife's co. is talking to the people involved, but no deal has been struck. If they don't get the biz, I'll probably have to pass due to other demands on our wallet this year. If they do, then for sure I'll be there because all expenses will be paid! They send me along because of the people I know and can introduce my wife to, which can lead to further opportunities for them. Cheers!

Well, OK, got me there. It's the next gen. But, i don't care for the early wood wheels, BMW or aftermarket. They look GREAT! But, they don't have a good feel to them at all, imho. This is a BMW wheel, leather (in great shape), slightly smaller diameter which is a nice compromise (not a tractor wheel, but still gives good leverage at low speed and parking).This wheel was optional on E21s, E28s and E30s. Finding one with coarse splines (pre-'85) isn't easy, but they're out there. The relocated carbon pin isn't very hard to do and the wheel is fully functional, all the horn buttons work and the turn signal cancels perfectly using the E28 wheel backpiece. Cheers!

Ditto... definitely mate them on the floor! That's money in the bank! Cheers!

Love the wheel! Hate Cashel prices. 'Course if they're the only game in town, whaddayagonnado? My wife bought me an early E28 M-tech wheel (coarse spline) for Xmas, and after some minor engineering to reverse the Horn contact and rearranging the washers/spacers, it works the business. Maybe not '02 specific, but period correct nonetheless. My car isn't as 'classic' as yours, so this too is a consideration. If you like it... go for it! Cheers!