gastephens

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About gastephens

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  • Website URL http://traqmate.com

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  • Gender Male
  • Location Alpharetta, Ga
  • Interests the thrill of the chase

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  1. Thanks for everyone's help.Yes, Occam is a sharp dude. (razor sharp you might say) After removing the motor mount and bracket, A/C bracket, and bungeeing the A/C compressor out of the way as far as possible I got enough access to get it out. Using a right angle drill attachment and reverse thread bits, and lots of Rost-Off and Brakleen, I extracted the sheared bolt!
  2. While it doesn't look like it, you are probably right. Tomorrow I will remove the bracket from the engine and see what I've got. It's a tight fit in there to extract a broken bolt. Thanks for the input.
  3. The bracket for the right side motor mount attaches to the block with two bolts in the rear and one in the front. It appears that the hole into the block for the front bolt is not drilled / tapped. The car used to have a York a/c compressor bracket mounted there so it was covered up. It does not appear to be a sheared off bolt but it is possible. Any thoughts or ideas?
  4. gastephens

    gastephens

  5. gastephens

    WN and other Parts Suppliers

    Everybody wants the best price. Not me. I want a fair price and good service. I generally get both from Blunttech. I got a bad rebuilt E21 Bosch alternator from them. One detailed email and Steve sent me a replacement alternator and a label for return of the first one. No hassle. No paperwork. No questions. Anyone can occasionally get a bad part. How much is good service worth?
  6. I finally restored my A-pillar door brake brackets and they are so much better. Unfortunately the driver side still makes a tiny pop when I open the door. My door brakes are in good condition but the plastic sleeve inside the door brake arm is a bit wallowed. Are those plastic sleeves replaceable? I could not find them on RealOEM.
  7. gastephens

    Comparo 2002 - Alfa GTV - for fun

    I've got the 2002. A GTV is just about the only car I would trade it for. Since they would serve basically the same purpose in my autoverse (hardtop comfortable enthusiast car that wife will actually ride in) I can't justify both. If only the BMW wasn't such a great car and if I hadn't restored it completely from scratch. Damn life decisions. Thanks for the insights.
  8. If you put a really nice, fully restored, non-tii with sunroof and A/C on BringATrailer it would fetch $27K.
  9. Sorry for your issues. I can commiserate since I've got more horror stories on my Austin Healey than you can imagine. BMW has been pretty good, comparatively. What I've learned. Body guys are hacks at just about anything mechanical, including installing all the bolts in the body correctly. Take off anything that might be of value or in the way. No way you want them touching it. I have NEVER gotten a body shop estimate that was anywhere close on cost or time. Even from guys who I consider good friends. The solvents used in body shops and the dust created will kill parts with contacts or moving parts (switches, fans, heater controls, etc.) After getting a car back from body shop you have to clean and tighten all ground connections. And the most painful lesson, only give them one chance. If they miss a deadline you give them some slack. Then you go get the car.
  10. Congratulations. Is this written with the wry humor we have come to expect or is it purely a how-to book? Entertainment, enlightenment, or some of both?
  11. I don't know what came on the car but I can tell you that most 16" wipers stick off the curvature of the glass. I gave up on both inserts and the junk replacement blades. These 15" units install fast, fit perfectly with no adapters, look stock (real metal!), and work great. And they are reasonably priced. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPZVTS/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  12. gastephens

    Sunroof seals

    I was replacing my seal rather than installing a new one. It is scary that I am now re-doing jobs that I did 15 years ago when I restored the car because they have worn out from use and age. Originally I used Wurth Rubber Glue contact cement but I decided to try that new-fangled SuperGlue Gel this time. I cleaned off the old glue with alcohol, Goof Off, and then Prep-All but could not get all the way down to paint. There was still a line of dark adhesive residue. The Superglue Gel would not stick to this at all so I dug out my can of Wurth Rubber Glue and it worked just fine. I like that you can apply it to the entire surface and the seal and then just carefully stick the seal into place. It does yellow so you must be very careful not to get it on the visible areas. I did use the Superglue to seal the ends of the furry P channel.
  13. Congratulations on a running car. That's a real accomplishment, especially with mix and match parts. The startup issue is likely choke and possibly mixture. There are 3 common choke types on a 32/36 weber, electric, water, and manual. Search for weber choke on the FAQ to figure out which you have and how to set it up. To check linkage, with car off, disconnect the linkage and move the throttle cam on the carb so you can see the range of motion. Then connect the linkage and have an assistant press the pedal while watching the cam on the carb to see if you're getting full range of motion. Adjust accordingly. Sent using Tapatalk.
  14. gastephens

    Making Pop-Out Windows Stay Out

    I have one that stays open and one that closes. Both are original to the car. I always thought that the geometry was slightly different on them since the one that stays open seems to open a little further than the other.
  15. gastephens

    A/C expansion valve for Frigiking

    Those are flare fittings. Rather than cut them off and install o-ring fittings, I would use an adapter. Here is a #8 example. http://nostalgicac.com/fittings-hose-kits/flare-adapters/8-flare-to-o-ring-fitting-adapter.html Alternatively you could have new lines made with flares on one end and o-rings on the other.