02for2

np Cheers!

My reply was not a Blanket YES. READ the instructions. You may need to measure the resistance currently at the coil to be sure you're within limits. These are 30+ y.o. cars and who knows what mods or errors exist. If not enough resistance, the Crane Box will burn up! The Crane is a good system, once setup properly, you'll really like it. Set it up wrong and you'll wish you'd stayed with points. Cheers!

Possibly... the Crane does need some resistance to work properly. If a late model, you have a resistance wire, if early, you may need to keep the ballast resistor. See the Crane instructions here: Crane XR700 Installation Cheers!

Great e30... is? If so, you already have sports seats there and while not Recaros, they're still very good seats. So, I vote the 2002. Cheers!

Whoa.... What's the old expression; Money Talks and BS Walks? I have had at least as many committments to buy our tailight kits as I have had actual sales, and we've sold many dozen. My conversion rate of those committing to buy via email or forum post, who actually end up buying, is less than 30% - that means 2 out of 3 committing to buy don't. My accountant (me) and the IRS would go bananas if I counted every email committment as a sale, and they'd be right. Fact is, most of my customers are unknown to me before their checkout on the site and simply go to the site and buy, not feeling the need to inform me that they're going to beforehand. Maybe the guy got hit by a Bus, maybe his wife found out, maybe he lost his job and is so low that he cannot bear contacting you to retract his committment. Fact is, none of that matters - It ain't a sale unless the money's in the bank. If you want to count your chickens before they're hatched, seems to me the problem isn't with the supposed buyer. If you have to purchase materials to produce it, require a non-refundable deposit equal to your material costs. Even that's no absolute assurance, but at least you're not out-of-pocket. Esty, you and I once discussed a carpet kit, but in further discussion with you, I found that I needed to finish my 5-spd. conversion in order to get the correct carpet (good thing I did because I'm going to go another way). When I am ready for my kit, I'll contact you and send paypal within 30 min. of your reply. If an amateur seller, simple solution; don't accept 1st dibs, but 1st Paypal notification. List your parts with the statement that the first one sending Paypal wins. Committed buyers are not going to have a problem with this, their intention is to buy. I think it's pretty 1984 to start publishing lists of whom you percieve as committed buyers who never followed through. There is no buyer until the money changes hands. Anything else is something you agreed to accept and therefore cannot b*tch after the fact because it fell through. It's unfortunate, it p*sses you off, but it's also reality...especially in today's economy. This is a case of Caveat Venditor Cheers!

We had 6 2002s in total - Steve's Tangerine 1970, Mike G's Malaga 1976, Colin's Polaris 1968, Tony's Chamonix 1970(?), Karen's Schwartz 1975 (not shown) and my Sahara 1976. Plus, we had a nice '88 535is in our group. It was COLD! But everyone still seemed to enjoy the fellowship and other cars. FIAT had 4 of the new 500s on display incl. an as not yet for sale convertible model. I'm being given one for a week for testing in order to do a Drive Report in the local enthusiasts newsletter! Thanks for all who came, despite the weather, it was a good event! More pics... https://cid-6993f17466348f36.photos.live.com/play.aspx/InterMarque%20Spring%20Kick%20Off . Cheers!

Excuse my ignorance, but 13th... schmirteenth. This is not a rare Ferrari or Bizzarini, it's BMW's base economy car, one they made tens of thousands of. There are plenty of them already in museums around the world for people to go stare at and view in their pristine state. I question the wisdom in a full-out resto on this car anyway, especially in this economy. I say stop the rust, get a decent paint job on it and a decent interior. This way the car is preserved while not breaking the bank - but even that's not cheap. If you wanna race it, race it! If that's the most economical thing to do, by all means do it! Whether on the road or on the track, at least you're getting the car back to it's intended purpose - to be driven. Personally I'd hate to see it all gussied up and then never driven unless the conditions were perfect. That's not what these cars were built for. Cheers!

IMHO: Zymol = GOOD Zaino = BEST! Nothing gets a depth and brilliance to the paint like Zaino. Sal Zaino and his Bro. have been hocking this stuff for years in person at car shows around the country until just a couple years ago when they began internet sales. I use Zaino Bros. exclusively on my 1990 Porsche 911 w/ 20k orig. miles, as I have on my Boxster and my Esprit - amazing stuff. All that said, what do I use on my 2002? - Nu Finish liquid car polish. Currently, my 2002 sports a poor quality respray, and it's just not worth the premium stuff. When I do repaint it in a couple years, I'll switch over to Zaino for sure. For an everyday car, or one which doesn't have show quality paint, Nu Finish liquid car polish gives a good enough shine while being some of the toughest stuff out there. Being an acrylic coating and not a wax, it easily last a year or better. It's cheap and easy to use, and tough enough to withstand waterspotting. Cheers!

Yep... That'll work. You want to use the #220 shutter wheel (marking on the side). Be sure you're at TDC when setting it up and that the shutter opening is just coming to the sensor. Cheers!

I can fix that for you... Cheers!

+1 and your valve lash! Cheers!

The Haynes manual lists the torque on the Pinion nut at 108 ft. lbs. minimum. It states: " Fit a new collaspible collar and reasasemble the pinion to the bearings and driving flange making sure the latter is aligned correctly by mating the marks made before dismantling. Hold the driving flange quite still, tighten the pinion nut to 108 ft. lbs. and using a cord and spring balance, check the turning torque of the pinion. This should be the figure recorded before dismantling plus 25% to offset the drag of the new oil seal. Where the correct pre-load is not reached, tighten the pinion nut to a fractionally higher torque wrench setting and recheck. Remember that if the preload of the pinion bearings is set too high, it cannot be reduced by backing off the pinion nut. In this case, the collapsible spacer will have to be renewed for the second time and the adjustment procedure carried out again." So, if you did not record the turning torque of the pinion nut prior to disassembly, you have no reference for resetting it. Several smarter 2002 people than I cautioned against doing this procedure saying it is one best left to the pros. Get it wrong, and you'll destroy your diff in a few thousand miles. With most of the work already complete, I strongly suggest bringing it to an experienced 2002 mechanic to have this set properly, it should not cost very much. Don't try to save a buck here, it would be foolish. Cheers!

The optical triggers such as the crane are immune to shaft wobble. The pertronix is not - as the shaft wobbles, it varies the air gap between the magnet and the sensor leading to false, or non-firing. Advanced Distributors can rebuild your unit too. But, make sure that at maintenance intervals, you lube the little felt pad in the shaft with some motor oil, that will extend it's usable life considerably. Cheers!

You paint the hats of the rotors, not the rotor surface itself. This is sinterted iron and maybe the fastest rusting ferrous metal on the planet. No big deal, the accumulated rust is rubbed off the first time you use the brakes. The rotors are really heat sinks, so get hot. This is why you should use a hi-temp paint on the hats. Cheers!

Easiest way is to look at the carb, it'll show the model. Also, operate the gas pedal and look at carbs. If both butterflies open, it's a 38/38 - the 32/36 is progressive. Cheers!

Here a tip I've used for many applications, especially for things such as fog lights, etc. To add a weather-proof connector to your wiring harness, consider a 2-prong flat electrical connector such as this one. It is NAPA part # 755-1598 and is used primarily as a trailer light extention. It is a 12" loop with male/female connectors at opposite ends - $1.98. Cut them in half. Splice/Solder, then heat shrink 1/2 to the wires on your lights, and the opposite half from the set to the wiring harness. This way, you can disconnect the lights easily if ever need to service radiator, remove bumper, etc. (Btw, pick is incorrect. Cut in half, you'll have color-matching male/female connectors) I'm not sure you can buy weather-proof connectors alone for $1.98/side. Hope some find this useful. Cheers!

Pat Braden's book on Webers suggests the following for the 2.0L 2002: Venturis - 33mm, aux. ven. - 45.0, emulsion tube - F16, Main jets - 120, Air correction - 190, idle jet - 0.50 (F8), pump jet - 0.40, needle valve - 175. This is a good start, but to really dial in your individual motor, I'd go up/down 1 of each main and idle jets and see which works best. Also, this assumes the engine is in good tune - valve lash, advance, ignition, no air/vac leaks, floats properly set. If you haven't done this yet, you're in for an excercise in frustration. Do the fundamentals and then fine tune the carb. Cheers!

Well... it is Pole Day at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, so I guess in some sense they're correct! Cheers!

For $150 Large USD, it better be the real thing! Cheers!

Nice Fix! But, since it is normally fixed with the side tabs, what does the Trim Retainer shaft plug into? Btw, this part, Upper Cover - e21 Sport Seat (52101877057 (Lft.) 52101877058 (Rht.) is readily available for about $20. Just sayin'. If mine were to break the tabs, I'd go your route. Cheers!

WOW...!! I got mine from Germany for $60 and $14 S/H and they're perfect, like new. No little cracks in the glass and came with new seals. It was a guy who dabbles with '02 parts, not as a biz, more as a 2nd income source, he's gotten lots of nice things in the past couple years, always near perfect and very reasonable. Cheers!

This one didn't look too bad, but you'd want to negotiate a better price. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/2337573672.html Cheers!

For $6500, it wouldn't be the first one I jumped on, nor the 5th. For $2000, it may be worth looking at, but no more. Even considering inter-state transport, you could easily find a nicer car for $5k out-of-state. With the economy in the stink, it's probably worth your time to be patient and keep looking. I can't pinpoint it, but I think there's more issues with this car than meet the eye. It may be unfair, but it looks like it's been polished and such to make for a quick sale. Buy this car and plan to have a War Chest of at least $5k to clean it up (there's more rust than there appears to be), and to sort the mechanicals. For that kind of money, you could have yourself something truly special and Nightmare-free. Cheers!

You'd likely have to use a crank trigger for the spark and a speed sensor or some such to a control box for the advance. It won't be easy or cheap to get it working well, but it's certainly doable and an interesting project. Cheers!

No doubt! I agree 100%! But stock, it's no hair ignitor. How do I know? I run a stock M20 in my E30 325is. No Doubt, a 'built' M20 will get your attention. But the same can be said for virtually anything from a 50cc Tucumseh to an LS1. However, I cannot imagine a favorable cost/benefit ratio of building an M20 around a set of carbs. Cheers!