02for2

Yes... armrests Cheers!

I would think that adding a cat would create backpressure issues, even possibly headgaskets issues, if left on for more than an inspection period. Cheers!

Anyone here ever recover your Interior Door Handles.. ?? Looking for pics and possibly reupholstery shop recommendations. Thanks !! Cheers!

Looking for an excellent complete set of Black interior door handles and rear handles. Willing to pay large for NOS or 98%ers. Please don't waste time with 'pretty good', 'not too bad' or 'they'll clean up nicely' offerings. Cheers!

The links I posted show only about 1/3 of the entire collection ! Ken also has some very nice antiques as well. At the time I viewed it, the collection was deemed inestimable, partly because of all the one-offs and also because if this collection were ever to go for sale at one time, the sheer number of cars would actually depress the market. But, an estimate was made of more than $300 Million !! For those who don't know, Ken Lingenfelter is the CEO/Owner of Lingenfelter Performance Engineering. His famous late cousin, John, actually worked for Ken. Cheers !!

This story, complete with photos was circulated around the Porsche boards several years ago. It is a myth which was de-bunked back then. The 'collection' was accumulated by a retired auto dealer over many years. It is located in Portugal, but the land, bldg. and collection still very much belong to the original owner. The false rumor spread when the owner had a photographer come in to photograph the collection. Some of the photos got on the web igniting the rumors and back story. But, there are some very nice 'hidden' collections out there. Several years ago I was invited to view part of the collection of a guy known then as the 'Sultan of Michigan'. This collection, numbered more than 500 cars. It was all very secretive, the location, we were not allowed to photograph it nor take any electronic devices, and signed waivers not to disclose the location. We were picked up at the airport in a car w/ blacked out windows and driven straight inside the 1st bldg. before being allowed out. The collection was contained in several bldgs. with covered or fenced walkways between them. This was all for Security/Insurance purposes. Since that time, the owner has come forward and held a couple of charity tours through the collection. He is Ken Lingenfelter, John Lingenfelter's cousin. AMAZING collection !! There was a YouTube pirated and floating around, so you may have seen it. Watch it here: http://www.autoblog.com/2009/03/27/video-mystery-collection-is-one-of-the-nicest-weve-ever-seen/?a_dgi=aolshare_email or here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eMQMgwouKlU Cheers!

If your locksmith doesn't have BMW codes from that far back, the same number on the barrel applied to VW codes from the same era actually work. Ask me how I know... Cheers!

Great story, beautiful car and daughter, hope she has lots of good luck with it !! I've got a '90 325is and love it ! Would have just as well gone for a 318is if I could have found one in the condition of my 325. The 318 has a little better balance I believe because the M42 weighs less than the M20. Suggest having her wear different footwear other than Uggs when behind the wheel. Those can't be the best in a footwell with 3 pedals. Cheers!

It is NEVER a good idea to counter-rotate the engine (rolling it backward). Doing so can create slack in the timing chain and possibly cause it to jump a tooth or two on the timing chain sprocket, upsetting the mechanical timing. Always roll the car FORWARD in the highest gear (greatest mechanical advantage) and allow the tensioner to keep the chain taut as the motor turns in the direction it was intended. If you run out of room, put car in neutral, roll the car backward, re-engage the highest gear and roll FORWARD again until you find your 'spot'. Cheers!

IMHO, making a hodge-podge of your braking system is a bad practice. I mean afterall, they're your Brakes !! If an engine fails, it's inconvenient. If the brakes fail, it can be so much more ! There's just no point, and a false economy, not to do it right. Also, look for the DOT mark on the Steel flex-lines. If not DOT approved, they tend to loosen with time. The only issues here are if you have non-dot approved, you need to add a tightening check to your annual maintenance list, and there is the possibility your insurance could go sideways in a claim, if they were discovered, for not using approved parts (most policies cover this in the fine print). Spend the $100 and never have to worry about it again. Cheers!

Figure a minimum of $125/wheel. Then add $57/wheel for new parts to tighten up the center caps. DIY figure $150 tops for all 4 + the center cap parts. One thing if going professional is to shop for quality... not price. You want to be sure they have a good oven and are calibrating it regularly and also that they allow a slow cooldown period to keep from ruining the temper of the alloy. Lots of shop advertise by price, but rush jobs through not properly controlling temperature or allowing for proper cooldown. Cheers!

I've got the H&R w/ HDs all around. A very good setup, IMHO. I cannot imagine going any more stiff for a car spending more than 30% on the street. Stiff suspension setups feel 'cool' for the 1st thousand miles or so, after that, it can get pretty annoying very quickly. Cheers!

Some cars have a screw at the bottom. Some also have a clip or two along the leading edge. Otherwise, it's just move the panel upwards. Be sure to be gentle as the clips which attach to the window sill often corrode and sieze. It may be necessary to force a wide screwdriver or wedge of wood behind the panel and tap it upward using a deadblow hammer (preferred) or an ordinary one. Of course, remove the seat first. Cheers!

Thanks guys !! Looks as if we'll be tackling this after the holidays, but it's great to have your info ! Cheers!

Hey guys, There's a local guy here who owns a Turbo (presumably Factory Stock) and contacted Steve (aka Blunt), about helping him get his car started. Steve subsequently contacted our group to see if anyone could go look it over and possibly lend a hand. In emails w/ the owner, a possible 'tell' is that he says the Fuel Pump no longer makes a 'whirring' sound when he turns the key. We'll check the pump, grounds, fuse, drop-out relay (if so equipped). My intent is to go over and make sure the car is within spec - Timing, Plugs, Advance, possibly valve lash, check fuel pressure... the basic Fuel Air Spark diagnostics. Problem is, my manuals do not have any of the Turbo specs. Do you guys, or anyone else for that matter, know what these are? Timing, Advance, Spark Gap, Fuel pressure, Valve Lash...?? Thanks in advance... and I'll be sure to post some pics !! Cheers!

I've always had good luck working with Eurocarb Ltd. from the UK - http://www.dellorto.co.uk/. They also do Weber as well. Cheers!

I've likely posted much of this before, but... There's no difference between the performance potential of Weber DCOE and Dellorto DHLA carbs once setup properly; however, they're not simply clones of each other. There are very distinct differences between them. And there is a huge difference in getting them properly setup. Webers were initially designed for Racing, where the carb spent most of it's time at WOT. Early italian manufacturers such as Alfa Romeo and FIAT had difficulty adapting them to their street cars. Dellorto came along and used the excellent Weber design, but perfected it for street use. Both of these carbs are now close to 100 years old. Personally, I prefer Dellortos. But, I'm not trying to be contraversial here - if you like Webers, use them. One of the reasons for my preference is Dellorto calibrated parts, like jets and mixture screws, offer much finer resolution - you can be more exact in adapting them to a particular engine. Weber Main Jets are available in size steps of five - 130, 135, 140...etc. Dellorto's are available in steps of one - 131, 132, 133, 134...etc. Same with Idle Jets, Accelerator Pump Jets, etc... The Weber Idle Mixture Screws have blunt tapers and coarse threads, while Dellorto's have long slender needles and fine threads. Weber mixture screws usually end up adjusted about 1 1/4 - 2 1/4 turns out, while Dellorto screws end up 2 3/4 - 3 3/4 turns out. Overall, it's much easier to achieve a very exact mixture setting with Dellortos, while you must take larger steps with Webers that just sort of get you in the neighborhood. For tuning, the Dellorto is ported to accept a 4-pot manometer such as the Morgan CarbTune II. With this, you can dial in the carbs within 99% in under 10 min., all the while keeping the air filters in place and accounting for them. The Webers rely on an airflow meter, such as the Carb Sync which literally sits between the intake air to the carb and can disupt the very thing you're trying to gauge, plus it doesn't take the airfilter into account. The Weber progression circuit often has only 2 or 3 holes, while Dellortos have 5 or 6. The Dellorto 6-hole progression is a Lotus development for their own models. Because it worked so much better, Dellorto later adopted this across their full product line. The 6-hole setup gives the Dellorto a much smoother progression off-idle so the carbs depend less upon a heavy shot from the accelerator pump. The Weber uses a big pump shot. So much so that Weber carbed engines often deliver significantly shorter piston ring life compared to Dellortos because the big shot from the Weber washes the oil from the cylinder walls. The Weber accelerator pump's piston runs in a bore machined into the body. It's metal to metal, is subject to "blow-by" due to clearances, tends to wear over time, and the bore cannot be repaired. The Dellorto diaphragm pump has no blow-by and clearances don't wear with use. Then when it does get old, the pump is easily rebuildable back to 100% spec by simply replacing the diaphragm and gasket. Webers are much more prone to leak. Dellortos don't. In fact, Lotus switched from webers to dellortos specifically to correct fuel leakage issues. So, while more difficult to find, and with a more limited number of parts suppliers vs. Webers, I'd still take Dellorto DHLAs over a set of Weber DCOEs any day for the reasons stated. But, having said that, they are both great carbs. Cheers!

Nice! What kit did you use..?? Cheers!

Well, the later cars didn't normally have the screw, but many have replaced panels and some consequently do have it. I said it's stubborn... the steel clips will sometimes corrode to the panel edge, which is why you sometimes have to use the wood/hammer method. I used a piece of lath (thin enough to get behind), and also once, a steel interior removal tool (like a broad bladed screwdriver). The main concern is damaging the panel or the window seal using this method, but if one is careful, it will work. Be sure it's seated at the top of the panel (behind it) and lots of little taps in several places to loosen it rather than going all 'Ahhhrnold' on it. If the clips are rusted, it's really the only way. In any event, you need to push the panel straight up to get the clips to release. Good Luck !! Cheers!

The rear side panels do not use clips. They have a single phillips head screw on the bottom, and then are held by clips on the window edge. Remove seats and then the bottom screw, then work it upward with a side-to-side rocking to work the clips loose - it will be stubborn. I have also seen them removed by getting a slim flat piece of wood or such, working it in behind the panel at an angle and then use a deadblow hammer to gently pop it upward until the clips let loose (about an inch) - be careful using this method as you can damage either the panel or the window seal. Cheers!

Seems like many have been very Nice this year. I say this because I know of a few 02 owners who are going to find LED Conversion kits under their tree come Xmas morning !! (Thank you for that). But, I have received several inquiries at 2002s.net about how late these can be ordered and still be received by Dec. 25th. The answer is that your order must be in by midnight this Thursday (12/15) to insure that you receive them by Christmas. It takes us a couple days and the Post Office is usually slower this time of year. If that doesn't work for you, email me directly at info@2002s.net, and maybe we can still work something out to make you a good Santa. Again, special thanks to all fellow FAQers who've helped make our kit a sucess! Wishing everyone warm Holiday Greetings! Cheers!

An average incandescant bulb/lens has a 'throw angle' of 270°. The average LED has a 'throw angle' of <70°. This is why each of our arrays contains 50+ LEDs (150+ LEDs per side). The effect is cummulative. Through trial & error (producing 8 pre-production prototypes), by adding this number... as well as the way they're arranged, we've achieved a 'throw angle' of 278°. So, to answer your question... YES, individual LEDs have a limited 'throw angle'. But, the way we have arranged them, they actually exceed the 'throw angle' of the stock OEM incandecesant units. In other words, there is no concern about being seen at any angles beyond directly to the rear. Cheers!

put it in 4th or 5th gear and push or pull the car It's never a good idea to turn an engine backwards, so you want to be certain to make sure it moves forward (whether pushing from the rear, or pulling from the front). Moving the car forward insures that the engine turns the 'correct' direction. Counter-rotating the engine can create slack in the timing chain and possibly cause it to jump a tooth or two on the Cam sprocket, upsetting the mechanical timing. If you run out of room to move the car forward in gear, put it in neutral and push it backward, re-engage the highest gear, and move the car forward until the desired cam position is reached. Removing the plugs beforehand insures that you won't be pushing against the compression. Cheers!

+1 on G2 - have used it on several vehicles with excellent results. One is 8 y.o. and shows no signs of deterioration. Cheers!

Hey guys, Thanks for all your support !! I have since contacted both Gary and Mike and assured them their orders/questions had been processed and were on their way! This is personally an embarrassing situation because our goal is to provide the best customer assistance we can, and we work hard to build that reputation. What happened was that the storefront software upgrade by the software company was to occur on the 17th. My wife and I left the States for Australia on the 12th. I was assured that the upgrade would be seamless, which it was, except for one tiny little fact... they didn't tell me was that my 1st log-in to the store after the upgrade, had to be from my 'home' IP address, a security feature - part of the upgrade. We were travelling with my wife's laptop, connecting through the hotel's network to the internet. The software recognized the IP address as different from my 'home' address and locked me out of the store, so I could not process any orders. VERY frustrating as my email (separate from the storefront) alerted me that there were orders waiting to be processed. It actually put a slight damper on our trip as my wife saw my frustration and even told me to 'chillax' as there was nothing I could do about it until we returned home. We returned on the 27th and I immediately got the orders going and replied to those with concerns. Thank you all again for your support... it meant a lot ! Also, thanks to Gary and Mike for their patience and their patronage !! Business is back as usual !! Cheers!