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  1. I have for sale a pair of Hella 160 fog lamps I bought several years ago from Rallylights. Used on the car for one summer. I sold the car recently and the wiring harness/relay went with it. Included are the bumper brackets. $100.00 plus shipping.
  2. I forgot about the JimStim!, I will dig it out and include (for testing setups and such)
  3. I thought I would post this here first before I list it over at RV3. I have a Megasquirt II setup I had on my M42 powered 1600 for sale. I took it out of the car and went back to stock to sell the car. I have decided not to reuse the MS, so it is time to move on. The car was running with it but the idle was hunting when I decided to pull it and sell the car. If you want to mess around with Megasquirting your M42 02 this winter here is your chance to get basically everything except the COPs and air temp sensor (cheap GM one needed) for $400.00 plus shipping. Can be used with other setups as well, does not have to go only on a M42. Included: Megasquirt 2 with the 3.0 board built from a kit from DIYautotune. Added in the proto area is a dual VR chip for bringing in crank and cam signals (can be used with only crank) so you can run sequential ignition 14point7 Spartan2 wideband controller with Bosch O2 sensor Relay board - connectors shown in photos were temp till everything was working - I was hoping to go to ITBs eventually Quad Spark - for firing the coil-on-plugs (COPs went with car) Relay cable - needs a few wires soldered back together as I had bypassed the relay board, I think it was for the cam signal. wiring harness for M42 - hacked for the MS setup, included if you want it. thanks for looking.
  4. not as far as San Fran - only about 40 miles away from Green Bay, Wi
  5. now on craigslist for 8k with no extra parts. http://greenbay.craigslist.org/cto/5578456007.html will include the extra parts if someone from the FAQ buys.
  6. Moving and not sure my almost finished project will have a home so it is probably time to let her go. It is a 1969 1600 that now has a M42 in it after the original motor gave up the ghost (and head). The bad: After I got the engine all in I found out that the rear main seal leaks pretty badly, I tried to fix it last fall and after all the work of dropping the engine and tranny – it leaked just as bad (I think I should have replaced the cover piece that has the seal in it). It can be driven but should be trailered home. I was told the engine and tranny have about 135K on them (installed with Jakeb kit). It had a Maaco paint job done in the early 80s which was not very well done, the original color is Polaris. The good: The vast majority of work has been done for you. The car was basically taken off the road 30 years ago. So it needed a lot of maintenance, cleaning and removal of ziebart. Front and rear suspensions were replaced with cleaned and rebuilt ones from a 02 to get rid of the oil filled CVs, add roll bars and better brakes (kept 1600 diff). All items replaced such as bearings and bushings, wish bones, drag link, tie rods, ball joints, rebuilt half-shafts, etc. Painted with POR 15 and added Bilstein HDs and H&R sport springs. Tires have less than thousand miles on them. While the suspension was out the underside was stripped of the ziebart with wire brush on a drill and two coats of POR 15 system applied, then undercoating. Brake system completely replaced except for two metal lines at the rear (off the distribution block) including s.s. braided lines. Hella third brake light added, new headlights and wired for driving/fog lights. Interior: seats from 320, 3-point seatbelts added, floors stripped to metal then two coats of POR 15 system then fat mat then Etsy salt & pepper carpet kit. New door brakes. The rockers were showing rust bubbling through so the area was cut out and new welded in. Rockers and frame also sprayed with rust inhibiter. Small pin hole in spare tire well also patched with new metal. So what does this car need to be a daily driver? The leak fixed, exhaust finished from the middle muffler back (tied in to original for now), the tach & speedo sorted, some wiring finished for hidden stereo in trunk if wanted and carpet and interior bits put back when done fixing leak. I looked at this car when working on it as a driver, a preservation of it if you will, and not a restoration. Also included are the extra parts pictured at the link. Please come and look at it and drive it. $8,500.00 Location: Green Bay, WI More photos at: http://s806.photobucket.com/user/dudok_photos/library/?sort=3&page=1 Much more including history – call Tim at: 920-265-5206
  7. Or - combine a trip to Lambeau for a game and I'll bring em to your tailgate.
  8. Price:: 25.00 Location: : green bay, wi I am moving and do not want to drag these along with me. Please come and get. http://greenbay.craigslist.org/pts/5347044329.html
  9. Okay, thanks. I will turn it around this time.
  10. The master is new as I was going from a mechanical clutch setup to this. I had the nipple facing up. If it is facing down is there room to get the hose up in the tunnel(on top the slave)? I recall it being VERY tight around the slave.
  11. I am wondering if anyone swapping in an M42 put a new slave in? The reason I ask is when I got the engine & trans there was no slave cylinder. So along with lots of other bits I ordered one last year. Got everything finally up and running, last thing to do was a bleeding. Using a power bleeder I did the slave, could not get the hose on it so just cracked it open. I did this several times and still no engagement at all of the clutch - felt just like it did before bleeding. So, freaking out I first checked the schematics to see what I screwed up. I noticed the thing circled - called a "thrust adapter" and did not have this. I also noticed on Pelican someone else with this problem and they suggest getting the adapter. So, I ordered it thinking it will increase the size of the donger (no joke intended ). It came in today and comparing it to the old one they are the same length. I dropped the engine and tranny because of a bad leak at the rear main seal and the clutch fork setup looks as it should so i did not screw something up there. The trans says 240 on it. Do I need to bleed it better? This is the slave that comes up everywhere I search for the e30 318is. Anyone else have an issue? I want to button the thing up this coming holiday weekend as I have set aside the time. I will try and bleed the thing as I raise it into place to have better access to the bleeder. thanks for listening and any suggestions.
  12. Could try the "cheaper" ITBs. Throttle bodies from a cycle. I was thinking about trying this: http://www.maxbimmer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=149345 Might not be too hard as I already have it running on Megasquirt and the throttle bodies can be had on ebay for less than a $100.
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