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About florida2002m3

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  1. So today my two rear hangers broke, causing my old rusted headers to crack near the flange into the center piece. (See picture) Over the years I have been collecting exhaust pieces from swap meets.... junk yards.... etc. I have some sort of 4-->1 (stahl type) header, Ansa center resonator, and some random magnaflow. (see other pics) I am slightly in a pinch with this, it is currently my DD since the M3 has been in the shop for a new drive shaft (no eta) and the wife takes my 535. If I wasnt in a rush I would read and read and read about the best steps to take. But since I am in a pickle I figured I would just start asking questions now. 1. How often do the studs snap when de-nutting them, the current system has been on there for a long time? 2. Do I use a stock gasket with aftermarket headers? pn: 18111245500 3. My car is rather rusted underneath If I take all these goodies to a shop and ask them to mickey mouse their way through the install, are they going to run into major issues when welding up their own hangers etc? Or is that something they tend to deal with a lot? 4. I dont really care at this point, would it be cheaper and quicker to have them just cut off the damaged lower header part, and straight pipe it back, or is the custom fab and bending going to cost me more? I may also put the headers on myself to spare them (and my wallet) of any mistakes made by the shop help. Then drive it to them, and have them convert the header output diameter to the ansa diameter, then finish the piping to the magnaflow. Sorry for all the uninformed questions, my experience with exhausts are limited, and i fear i dont have enough time to become "virtually experienced". Thank you.
  2. I loosened the belt, so I am now a bit looser then the .5 inch. Still getting the whining. So I sprayed the belt again. Below the ALT by the crank pulley. Sound goes away for about 20 seconds, then comes back. Any ideas besides a new belt?
  3. Update: Put in new battery Tightened belt Everything is fine now, but I fear I tightened the alt belt too tight. I get a whining noise from the alt that increases with rpm. Sounds like a SC When I press on the belt between water pump and alt pulley I get about .375 inches of deflection. I am going to loosen it a bit and see what I get.
  4. Quick note, the temps during the day are in the mid 80's. Nightime is in the low 50's, very weird Florida spring?!??! Started right up after work yesterday Drove her home, did not hook up to charger, Cleaned and checked connections, all looked good Started her about 2 hours later..... everything normal ran her for 15 minutes Started her up 3 hours later.... everything 100%, no noise Parked her for the night without the charger, feeling overconfident...... never a good idea with this car Got up this morning a little earlier, very slow turnover, got faster, then faster, then started right up I did NOT engage the alt (3k+ rpm), no noise. headlights on, no noise I then engage the alt, headlights get brighter. Rpms's go down to idle....... jingle jingle noise, softer if i turn off headlights. This is where it gets good: I grab a light and belt conditioner, open the hood I spray a little onto the belt @ the alt pulley (I realize I shouldnt have sprayed it so close to the alt, but not important at the moment) ~~The noise goes away, I turn on and off the headlights, rev it a bit: Noise is gone Recap: Belt is loose, I will check for glazing when I tighten it It was tight enough to turn the alt with minimal load, but heavy load it was slipping a bit (not a normal slipping noise at all) Next Consideration: Battery CCA is low at the moment. A 5 year old, neglected, Duralast 65 DL with 750 CCA The drive to and from work is only 15 minutes. A freshly charged battery should be able to start, run the car with a little charging, sit for 8 hours, start, run again for 15 minutes, sit for 15 hours, and start again, correct? As stated earlier, the alt puts out enough to run the engine without the battery, so load on battery should be minimal during driving Current Chronological Hypothesis: Battery/car (belt) sat for 6 months, battery got too low for its own good, charged on charger Belt was tight enough to keep the battery limping for a few weeks Florida spring weather swings catalyzed the failures Belt started to stretch a bit, less charge to keep it limping Battery started to show signs of neglect Battery is now beyond nightly charge and full alternator charge "recovery" Conclusion: Tighten/replace belt Replace battery I appreciate the knowledge of the group so please read through my ramblings......... and let me know if you would draw a different solution from all of the symptoms/findings I presented. I would be much more than happy to not pay $150 on a new battery THANKS!!!!! Slightly off topic I sprayed the belt conditioner right in front of the alt, and now the alt appears to be making a new sound..... could be a "conditioned" belt slipping or could be a dislike of the conditioner in the alt??? Any experience on this?
  5. The belt deflection between pump and alt is about 1/2 inch.... but I can turn fan and/or alt by hand and the belt slips. I have yet to check the connections, but all of that had been robustly done a year or so ago. Im putting my $ on the belt. But the weekend will tell.
  6. Hey guys, 74, carb'd, Inka w/black details,fender flares and a Zender airdam. Located in Melbourne. When I got the car it was my DD so the "restoration", if you can call that, was done on a college student budget. So it is far from a purists car, but I did what I could with the resources. I used to be active on here and Ive met a few of you guys over the past few years. But life/time/money has kept me on the sidelines. Life has settled and I got my 2002 back on the road, and of course this brings the "fix/upgrade" bug. First order of business, rear tower brace w/battery tray. Anyone have one sitting around. I would rather buy/pickup local, than brand new shipped. Im also helping Richard in Melbourne get his 2002 back on the road, last weekend was timing.... this weekend is electrical.
  7. 74 carb'd. Car sat for a few months, no battery tender Charged it once, drove it for a few weeks without any issues Other morning, about 50 F, she turned over very very slowly, then sped up... Vroooooom. I noticed a high pitch, faint, jingle/whining noise from front of engine. Only at Idle, goes away at 1200 ish. It was 6am, so I shut her down and took another car. Put the charger on for the 8 hours at work. Came home, she started right up, no noise Next morning, same thing, same noise at idle. So I revved her (2K) for a few minutes, back to idle, no noise Drove to work (15 minutes), turned off, started again.... vroom right away Get in her after work..... slow turn overs, faster, faster (30ish seconds).... vroom, sound. then goes away. Get home and Finally have time to actually experiment With a new charge on the battery (which may be on its way out, 5 years old and neglected??) Starts right up, no noise, UNTIL I turn on the headlights, then the noise is there at idle. Charged overnight, started right up, headlights make noise, drove to work. I expected it to not cooperate when leaving work 8 hours later......... but oh no, starts right up, but noise with headlights. Wohoo, narrowed it down to electrical, I think Atl is a rebuilt 85amp with new poly bushings, about 4 years old It has always done something a little weird, when the car is started the alt has no output, until the rpm's pass 3K. At that point it jumps to 13.7ish volts and starts charging all the way down to idle level rpm's I know the alt is putting out, I can disconnect the battery and run her just fine. Will the Alt make a little noise if it is really stressed? As in, my battery is on the fritz.... stressing the Alt? Im hoping someone else has had this symptom in the past. I plan to jump into it this weekend, but figured I would first consult the wise council of FAQ!!
  8. Hey guys, life has had me too busy to be on the forum for about 8 months+. One of the busy things is buying a house. This morning I was going to drive my '74 to her new garage at the new house. Well she threw a temper tantrum!!!! She has been driven 1-2 times a month for the last 8+ months. Maybe a few miles at a time, just enough to warm her up. Pertronix coil: unknown brand weber 32/36 vacuum advance fuel pressure regulator and guage What I got this morning was: Start warm up to outa "blue" zone (foot on throttle 1.4K rpm) take foot off of gas, rpm drops to about 500, used to be about 900 so i get back on the throttle a bit rpm's start to stumble I increase to 2.5K, still stumble almost stall, then high rpm jump, then almost stall again turn off car Pull off air filter, notice choke plates are locked open removed top of carb, notice choke plate lever disconnected from linkage reconnected linkage (I knew that wasnt the problem, but was hoping!!) start her up, starts on first crank runs at about 500k again no stumble until she has been running for about 1-3 minutes repeated symptoms a few times.... hoping to get lucky, we all know how these cars can be Im thinking clogged air jet in carb??? Possible timing problem? The main problem is that most of the tools/cleaners etc. are packed away, plus it started raining. SO anything you guys can do to lessen my troubleshooting steps the better. The new house is about 3 miles away, and I have a friend who has a trailer..... so worst come to worst I can drag her over next weekend. THANKS GUYS!!!!
  9. Where are you located? I do not have a "good condition" OEM hood, but i am looking for a fiberglass one. If you want to sell it let me know. If its a short drive or the right price i will scoop it up.
  10. Its not the size that counts Its the connection. The connection to the starter plate was very corroded. Dremel and a wire brush cleaned it right up. Works like a charm now.
  11. Thats why i asked you guys!!!! I just measured the block to ground, 10 ohms, rod to ground 1 ohm. lol. Thanks guys, will address it tomorrow.
  12. Car has been sitting for a few weeks waiting for parts. Installed new radiator, alternator bushings, bearings.... I have had the battery disconnected and on a tender. Last night i charged the battery fully. Now for the twilight zone: When I turn the key, it turns over really slowly, like a dead battery. As soon as i touch the gas pedal the car jumps right into a roar and runs fine afterwards. The starter just ticks once now. If i have my foot on the gas at all, it turns over a few times and starts right up. Voltage is good at battery, havent tested the drop while starting yet, or voltage at starter. I do plan on jumping into it next weekend, but figured i would ask the experts first. No pedal: acts like a dead battery, "click, click" Pedal engaged a bit: acts as it has in the past, "turn, turn, vroooom" Any ideas? Please and thanks, KG
  13. Hey guys, Have not seen seats like these before. Any info is appreciated. This is in my '74 Cloth, really clean for a 38 year old car, prolly reupholstered??? please/thanks
  14. I will bring some extra cash and take a look around while picking up the ansa. I dont have alot of room in the E46, but we will see what u have Im excited to see your Tii.

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