02for2

IIRC, it ran about a grand all-in. You can shoot an email to them, or call and ask for Ray Korman. I called and I think he gave me a discount when I spoke with him. Cheers!

10.5:1 can be pushing it with Pump Gas, especially in warmer weather, a possible recipe for ping/knock. That will cause you to have to retard the spark to compensate. It may be better to go 9:1 with more advance rather than what you're planning. Don't fall into the allure of more power at the expense of torque. Remember the old addage:"People buy horsepower... but they drive torque!" An engine with a high power curve which is sluggish, unless you're wringing it's neck, can quickly lessen the driving experience, except on the Track. Cheers!

I might be missing something, but I just rebuilt an early set of 40DCOEs (from an Alpina 2000) and used the black nitrile floats without any problem. Or is there a problem, nothing about this is mentioned in the many DCOE articles I referenced? The plastic float settings are different from brass--Jim You're not missing anything. There are two main differences between Brass and Nitrile floats, apart from their material composition. The first is that the Brass floats are hollow, they are fabricated, usually, from a single sheet of Brass which is folded and then lead-soldered along the joints, they 'float' because of air trapped inside. Over time (think miles and miles) the constant vibration causes this solder to break it's bond(s) with the Brass and cause the fuel to leak in (and the air out) of the float, making them less or non-buoyant. When this happens, they can no longer float and close the needle valve. Nitrile floats are not hollow. They are cheaper to manufacture and are mostly immune to gasoline (they can eventually become saturated) and so are much more long-lasting. The second difference is in their actual buoyancy. The Nitrile floats are lighter and more buoyant than their Brass counterparts and so the float height measurement is usually higher to compensate for this difference. Cheers!

Biggest contributor to HORRIBLE MPG's = Right Foot! Cheers!

As mentioned, do a compression and a leakdown test. If the numbers are good (which I'm betting they will be) forget it and drive the car. Be sure to check all the intake/carb gaskets for leaks - start car and pass a propane torch (not ignited) around all the joints and vac lines to see if the idle increases through the introduction of the propane gas which would indicate a leak. Obviously, use the appropriate caution with the propane, but you're looking for any unmeasured air entering the system and causing a possible lean condition. All cars eventually break/wear out. When it does, take the appropriate corrections, but until then, lose the angst and drive the car. Cheers!

Just swapping sways on an otherwise worn stock suspension isn't gonna provide a lot of 'cure'. I went with the 2002 Roadsport Suspension kit from Korman Racing . The kit consists of 4- Bilstein HDs, 4 H&R Springs (lowers .5 - 1.0"), 22/19 Suspension Techniques Sway Bars and all Prothane poly bushes. It is a great kit - all time-tested by Korman. Eliminates body roll and hasn't harshened the ride whatever. The car feels very responsive. I highly recommend this kit. You might be able to source all the bits separately for a few dollars cheaper, but the savings didn't amount to much when I did it last fall. Cheers!

A Salvage Title will be issued. You will still be able to register the car and depending on your state DOT, may have to have the car pass a safety inspection. You cannot clean up the Title, that's illegal. It will remain a Salvage Title. As such, be sure to have your Ins. Co. cover diminished value on your claim. Cheers!

A few tips: Take photos of the disassembly to aid in reassembly - an exploded view diagram is also helpful. Buy Carb Cleaning solution - 1 gal pail w/ parts basket (parts basket is usually useless because small parts drop through it). Buy a disposable aluminum Turkey Roasting pan and use this for reassembly - many small parts - easy to drop and lose - but they'll stay in the pan. Soak all parts for at least 24 hrs. (48hrs. is better) to completely dissolve old varnish and gum. Spray dry parts with compressed air, either compressor or Air-in-a-Can. Replace all gaskets - incl. carb-manifold, 'O' rings, diaphrams, washers, jets and hoses. Check condition of shafts and bearing - replace as necessary. HAVE CONFIDENCE! This ain't Rocket Science, it's basic disassembly/assembly. If it's your 1st time, afterward, you'll wonder what you were so scared of. Cheers!

From the UK Board, Mobile Tradition is now stocking Original Seat Materials. No word on pricing or US availability, maybe Blunt can chime in. Anyway, PN#s are: Velours: Tnr Benennung Stoff.Nr. Bestand E114 2002 1 817 041 Velours Grau available x x 1 817 042 Velours Marineblau low available x x 1 822 085 Velours Schwarz available x x Nylonflock Cord E114 2002 1 817 332 Hellgrau low available x x 1 817 333 Marineblau available x x Streifencord E114 2002 1 823 036 Schwarz available x x Rippencord E114 2002 1 828 194 Schwarz 1 available x x 1 828 196 Marineblau 2 available x x 1 828 197 Sandbeige 3 low available x x Also Vinyl: ZHW: 1 821 469 Bespannkunstleder Glatt 114 7 659 226 Marineblau available x 1 905 497 Schwarz available x ZHW: 1 820 146 Bespannkunstleder Genarbt 114 0 140 643 Marineblau available x 0 140 644 Schwarz available x ZHW: 1 828 203 Polsterkunstleder Perforiert 114 1 828 200 Schwarz available x 1 828 201 Marineblau available x 1 828 202 Nylonbraun available x Just thought to pass it along... Cheers!

The Canepa conversion cars are actually better than the original. In order to meet DOT/EPA specs, Canepa uses a better version of Motronics and freer flowing cats (all Porsche parts) than the oem exhaust system. This actually increases HP over stock and significantly broadens the power curve. Add to this that the car is not mileage restricted like those allowed in the country on Show and Display exemption which limits it's use to 2300 mi./yr. Cheers!

So what's the deal with the Trapezoids? I'm a newby here and don't really know the difference. My '76 deuce came with only a D-side non Trapezoidal mirror. As I'm accustomed to having dual mirrors, I bought a P-side mirror (NOS) months ago, yet to be mounted, which turned out to be trapezoidal. Aside from the wider viewing area, the thing I noticed is that my OEM D-side mirror has a Black plastic surrounding the glass while the trapezoidal I bought has a white plastic surround. I'm a symmetry kind of guy and would like both mirrors to match and I am tempted to buy a D-side Trapezoidal mirror to accomplish this. But, I cannot for the life of me understand the difference. Can someone please enlighten this Sh*t for brains about the difference/advantage of the Trap mirrors? Cheers!

The Clardy system is arguably a better system, and it doesn't overide the heater fan, it uses a separate switch. If the heater fan switch doesn't activate the heater fan, it's either a wiring issue or the heater fan is kaput. Not such an ugly job, but intense, you need to remove the heater box. Measure this to my 240Z where the heater core needs to be cut out of the box and you see why I say it's not that bad. Just completed this repair in Nov. All I can say is remove everything you can under the dash to make removing/replacing the box more easy, suggest KY Jelly to make the cost of the new blower motor easier on you and just be done with it. Cheers!

Nice tool to have for dialing in downdraught carbs, not so exact for dialing in dual sidedraughts. The exhaust is really a series of gas pulses and the sample read by the analyser is an amalgum of all these pulses. In a downdraught, the AF charge is premixed and distributed via the manifold. Assuming no air, vac, or HG leaks, the AF charge s/b the same in all cylinders and so the sample, and any subsequent adjustments, have real meaning and effect on all cylinders. But, in a dual sidedraught setup, with a dedicated barrel and intake runner for each cylinder, the analyser can be fooled. For example, you can have cylinder #1 running rich and cylinder #4 running lean, effectively cancelling each other out so far as the analyser is concerned, but could have dire consequences for the motor, especially the cylinder running lean. While helpful, in order to truly dial-in such a setup, the analyser readings need to be confirmed by plug reading each individual cylinder, a ColorTune would work well too. But if you have to do this, perhaps the analyser is redundent. Cheers!

Very nice - Great color! Cheers!

More like this - Alpha Romeo Montreal Cheers!

WTB Front Rubber Accordian ends for late DOT Bumper for my '76 '02 TIA mcfadden_jim at hotmail

I did the ST sways on my '76 in October. As I recall, it was a little trying, but not too bad. I had the car on jackstands so the control arms (minus tires/wheels) were at full 'droop'. IIRC, I couldn't clear the valence on one side only, so I threaded the bar, ends down, through the unobstructed P-side and slid the bar through to the D-side while rotating the ends to their normal horizontal position. This was complicated by the tranny cooler lines on my car. Then I was able to pull the bar down and scrape it past the inside of the valence where it had been tight. It just snapped in place. I did need to use a channel-lock to pass the U-bracket over the bushings to get the cap nuts started. Just stick with it, you'll magically find that exact combination of angle/rotation/oomph to get it in place. Good Luck! Cheers!

Outstanding! Congratulations! Minus the motor work, I completed the same mechanical/ignition/suspension upgrades as you have. Because I'm semi-retired, I was able to complete it all myself in under 2 mos. Tell me more about the seat reupholstery - local? A kit? Where? Best of luck with it and hide the keys from your teenager...lol Cheers!

Anyone have any thoughts/experience with it? The Brit car guys swear by it, and rumor has it that 3M was the original supplier to BMW for their Shutz. It provides a paintable rubberized coating that is supposed to provide a good degree of sound deadening as well. They also have a fairly nice applicator gun which, because a separate supply tube that comes with the shutz, never needs to be cleaned. Any thoughts? Cheers!

Yes, it was the all-aluminum, 215 CID Buick Fireball V8. GM had difficulty in casting the alloy block and was experiencing a reject rate in excess of 45% making it a very unprofitable powerplant. In 1964, Rover's managing director - Wm. Martin-Hurst was meeting with Carl Kiekhaefer (Founder of Mercury Marine) to sell some diesel Land Rover engines for possible Marine application and saw the V8 at Mercury. Kiekhaefer told him that MM had been commissioned by GM to try and solve the problems with casting (Mercury Marine also manufactured the famed LS1 engine for GM - after Lotus designed the Top end). Mercury in fact solved the problem by altering both the alloy content and the casting method, but by now GM had become disenchanted with it as the iron block 283 was doing so well. Kiekhaefer hinted that GM might be willing to sell manufacturing rights. Martin-Hurst returned to Britain and approached Rover's board about acquiring the rights to the motor. The Board was agast at the thought of an American engine being used in an English car and rejected the idea. But, this was the beginning of the decline of the auto industry in the UK and the development of their own V8 was consuming development money Rover needed elsewhere, so in 1965 the board decided that acquiring the engine was cheaper than continuing their own development and gave Martin-Hurst the go-ahead to approach GM, who was very receptive and even agreed to loan Buick's chief of engine design - Joe Turley to Rover for a period of 3 yrs. as part of the deal. As we all know, the rest is history and this engine has performed marvellously in Rovers, Triumphs, MGs and several other cars. Cheers!

A question for those of you shortening the late model DOT-spec Bumpers: How do you deal with the rubber 'accordian' bumper ends? This is something I'm contemplating, but haven't a clue how to shorten the rubber ends. Any help is much appreciated. BTW, I did do a search and came up with ways to compress the shocks, but no mention of the rubber bumper ends. TIA Cheers!

@Anschauer in Noo Yawk ... I was not advocating 'striping' your '74, only saying that on a modded street machine, this scheme would look pretty good on a Sahara background. Cheers!

My $0.02 would be to keep it Sahara. I got my '76 almost by accident in so much as I wasn't able to really pick it, in fact, I bought it sight unseen. When the transporter showed up, it was Sahara. Over the months, it's really grown on me - maybe you really need more time with it. For me, the Ultimate Sahara car would be M2 modded and the finishing touch would be an M tech tri-color stripe running diagonally from the Lft. front panel, continuing over the hood, across the top and down the Rht side rear quarter ala the Racing M1's, but hey... that's just me. Cheers!

I can't get over the US Market 'bulging' Turn Indicators... what's with that? Cheers!

Not to put too fine a point on it, because I totally agree with the way you have prioritized the upgrading of a car, but more power does not justify the need for bigger brakes - this is a common misconception, continually fueled by brake part manufacturers and sellers. If you have a 2,000 lb., 100HP, car which stops in 120' from 60MPH, and you add another 100 HP (assuming the weight stays the same, or near same), your brakes are still going to stop you in that same 120'. The additional HP will get you to 60MPH more quickly, but doesn't increase the forces acting on the brakes. The only justification for bigger brakes is if you change the way you drive, such as tracking or AXing the car where the bralkes are worked more. Even then, you don't increase the stopping power, per se, rather you dissipate heat more quickly/efficiently and prevent or reduce fading of the brakes. Most of the big brake upgrades out there are done mainly for bragging rights and their placebo effect. Putting on my kevlar for the expected opposition... Cheers!