02for2

S/b OK. Speaking hypothetically, could you do better? Probably. But, with an otherwise stock setup (other than the side draughts), probably not better enough to warrant the hassle and expense. ANSA's in the business of selling parts - If they tell you it's OK, they're likely correct. Cheers!

Lots & LOTS of reading material here - search the archives, the results will keep you busy. Cheers!

Those are replacement electrical boots and connectors for Bosch Electric Fuel Injectors, which the Tii does not use. The Tii uses mechanical injectors. This same kit is also sold on ebay, and dedicated parts sources, for the Datsun 280Z which uses Bosch K-Jetronic electrical fuel injection. I have used this kit to replace the boots on my 280Z which harden from excess heat because the intake and exhaust manifolds on that car are both on the left side of the engine, with the intake manifold on top, so it suffers from the heat released by the exhaust manifold below it - not the world's best design. Cheers!

Nice looking car... good looking food... fabulous looking girlfriend! Life is good for you! Cheers!

That is not a Tii manifold, at least not a 49-state model. I am unaware that the Tii required a CARB (California Air Resources Board) compliant manifold for sale in California, and the Mobile Tradition catalog doesn't list one. It's a CARB manifold for a naturally aspirated 2002 (California only), known as a Thermal Reactor manifold. This was used to augment the regular exhaust system as an emissions device where fresh air from the air pump was injected into the exhaust stream, combined with a heat trap to allow for a fuller combustion of exhaust gases, especially upon startup/warmup. I would think that the Kugelfischer injection system on the Tii would regulate the composition of exhaust gasses sufficiently that such a secondary system would be unwarranted. As to which manifold to go with, considering the addition of a pair of side drafts, the actual Tii manifold seems to have better flow. Also, since the Thermal Reactor manifold is much more massive than the Tii, in addition to added weight, you also have a greater heat retention resulting in higher engine bay temps, espec. at idle or stop & go traffic. There are also numerous headers available in the aftermarket which would improve flow. But, you need to be careful because too much flow can result in a noticable loss of low-end torque, which for a street car, is where you're gonna spend a majority of your time. Cheers!

Because of some of the symptoms you describe, such as drivability issues after running for some time at higher RPMs, I'm wondering if you're not having a coil go bad on you. Cheers!

It depends on the crack and where it's located. In many states, it's a safety violation to have a crack or chip on the windshield in the driver's field of view - you could get ticketed. And, cracks cannot be repaired, just blocked from spreading. But, if the crack is a result of tension on the windshield, it will slowly change direction and migrate away from the 'plug'. As stated, check your ins. policy. Many (mine does) have a glass replacement provision that allows a claim with no deductable which is not charged against you. Stating the obvious, replacing the windshield is better than repairing it. Add to this that it gives you the opportunity to replace what is likely a dried out seal and to clean and protect the metal surrounding it - an area prone to rust on the '02. Cheers!

Agreed 100%! I really do not think it's bashing at all. Every concern expressed seemed both truthful and valid. First, it's excercising the right of the consumer in a Free Market. Second, and more importantly, it gives the Vendor valuable feedback about their operation. The company who ignores the wants of their customers will shortly hear the Death Knell in todays business environment. I've spent my whole career managing service operations, some as large as 1500 employees. And I always told my people to listen to and respond to customer criticisms. I was raised with the addage that "The customer with an issue who doesn't complain, simply doesn't come back" . A customer taking the time to express their disappointment is giving you an opportunity to fix your business. In the day-to-day, it's very easy to lose touch with your customers. So much so, that in one company, I sent out post-sale note cards to our customers seeking feedback. On the front, it simply stated: "If we could see ouselves as others do...". Inside, it thanked them for the sale and went on to ask them, in their own words, to describe their experience with us. We had about a 65% return rate on these, and in several instances, these replies caused us to change the way we were doing business - to the betterment of our Bottom Line. This is the kind of stuff some businesses pay consultants thousands of dollars to come up with. I have seen Steve (Blunt), Max, Jeff (IE) and Steve (TEP) make contributions to the Forum, so I have a pretty good feeling they're listening. We want better vendors, they want more customers and better sales. By actively sharing our experiences, the smart vendors will profit from listening. Cheers!

The 4-spoke steering wheel is 385mm. The two spoke wheel is 400mm. The Sport steering wheel is 380mm. Cheers!

bad caliper. Cheers!

I've done 14 total restorations and I still get to the point where you're at - You're just 'hitting the wall', it happens to everyone doing a restoration. The secret is to hang in there, keep your head down, and plow through it. Don't look at the final completion as the goal that is just too overwhelming until all but the final stages. Break it down to smaller goals and keep your hand in it - be regular in devoting time to the project. You'll find that each time you achieve one, it recharges you to take on the next. You will find once you're done that it was truly the journey, not the destination which made it worthwhile. My toughest project was a '63 E-Type which began when someone gave me the Ashtray from one! No kidding! I got the ashtray and decided to build a car around it. Next part was a rear axle, then a blown engine. I bought a shell from an Ins. co. for $50 - a truck had rolled over on it. Took 5 yrs. and I thought about abandoning it many times, but when it was done, I had a true award-winning 100 pt car. I sold it 5 yrs. later to acquire my next project. Cheers!

I have used ramps, but find that jackstands are easier and safer! You can also raise the car much higher on stands. Ramps are OK for front end, but not so much for the rear. There are good ramps and cheap ramps. I've seen cheap ramps (often sourced from China) actually deform. I found that most of what I was raising the car for required ramps anyway, so I gave mine away years ago and haven't missed them a bit. If using stands, you have to have the whole package - a quality jack which is easy to use. I have also modified the saddle on the stands by having a flat piece welded to the top w/ a center hole. To this I took 4 Hockey Pucks and center-drilled countersunk holes in them so I could bolt them to the top plates of the stands. This way, there's no fiddling w/ 2x4 bits. It cost me $20 to do the mod. Cheers!

Porsche guys are a different breed. They'll pay CRAZY money for stuff like this. That's why Porsche can get $68 for a T shirt. I also think their demographic is in the higher income brackets and to many I know, this is pocket change. Porsches are starting to become like Ferraris, you can afford to buy them, but you can't afford to keep them. Cheers!

Poor experiences with both TEP and IE - they'd have to offer proprietary stuff available nowhere else for me to use them again. I have had very good experiences with Korman Racing. Their website doesn't list pricing, so you have to call them, but usually you get Ray Korman who knows a lot about these cars and their pricing isn't any worse than anyone else's I've found. Cheers!

Depending on how much may be built up, use detailing clay and a soapy water lubricant. Cheers!

Try Korman Racing. They use the H&Rs as part of their suspension packages, but I'm sure you can get them separately as well. Cheers!

So, is there a front strut brace out there which you can use with the stock air cleaner? Cheers!

I want to shorten the bumpers on my '76. I've read of those drilling the impact shocks to empty the oil and compress them. But, because the car is so original, I do not want to do anything which is not 100% reversable. Since the bumper shocks are now NLA, I cannot see destroying them to achieve the look I want. I have already sourced a set of rubber bumper ends to modify, keeping the original ones intact. I came across this short bumper kit from Racetep. Has anyone used this kit? If so, what are you impressions - was it easy to install? Is it reversable? Any help is much appreciated. TIA Cheers!

Paint, followed by Clear is the way to go. Steer away from powdercoating, especially on an older wheel, because the oven temp required to melt/flow the powder will ruin the temper of the alloy causing the wheel to break when you least want it to - None of the major wheel manufacturers use powdercoating for this reason. For paint, I'd suggest Wurth Wheel Paint They make a nice kit which gives good results and is the paint used by German manufacturers. Cheers!

Well penetrants and lubricants are two different things. My fav penetrant is pb Blaster If you're looking for the Wurth Lubricant: Wurth2000 If planning a lot of projects/restoration, I'd suggest both. Cheers!

Coarse spline M-technik e28 wheel. Cheers!

Check the Exhaust Mount on the rear of the tranny. If this is loose or improprly installed, it can set up a resonent frequency causing exactly the issue you describe. Cheers!

Vacuum Advance Unit Cheers!

Vacuum Advance Unit Cheers!

Why not just have the distributor rebuilt and recurved? There is a place in Cali - Ignition Engineering which can set the advance anyway you want. They do Bosch and have done them for 2002's. Cheers!