02for2

Unless specified, all Torque settings assume a totally dry thread. You need to thoroughly clean out the taps so that they're dry before installing and torqueing the bolts. The Rule of Thumb is that 50% of the torque value is to overcome the friction between the threads. The rest of the Torque value is to stretch the fastener (bolt). It is this elasticity which keeps the bolt tight, and also why you don't want to reuse these fasteners. Cheers!

Lots of possibilities here. But, best to start with the basics. Be sure the timing is correct - you cannot 'feel' your way to correct timing - get or borrow a timing light and a dwell tach to set dwell and idle speed. Be certain the float is correctly set - my feeling is that you'll find this is the #1 problem you have. Be certain there are no vacuum leaks around gaskets or any plugs you may have installed. If you have a fuel pressure regulator, be sure it's properly set. Be sure you have a clean fuel filter and carb strainer. You may have a clogged idle jet - the filter will not 'filter down' to the size of the idle jet orifice meaning that they can easily clog. Be sure you have the correct jetting in the 32/36 - is it new? If used, what application was it used for (and presumably jetted for)? There's no mystery to the Weber DGV/DGAV It's one of the easiest carbs to setup and tune. But, it's also unforgiving - everything must be spot on. Cheers!

One of the things you need to consider is that the heat now contained by the header wrap is just gonna go downstream and will adversly affect the rest of the system - resonator, muffler, etc. Not only that, but it could have an effect on the set valve overlap. I think any reported improvements are likely placebo effect. Cheers!

Definitely torque is stages. I would recommend finger tightening, and then break it into thirds - 20ft.lbs., 40ft.lbs. and finally 60ft.lbs., then set your cold Torque Angle followed by the warm (not HOT) Torque Angle. Cheers!

Well you should not have the upper bushing pulling through the control arm like that. The two bushings should meet at the hole. Is the bolt tightened to spec? Is it assembled correctly - Bolt/Washer/bush/Sway Bar/bush/washer/spacer/washer/bush/control arm/bush/washer/nut/lock nut? Did you reuse the existing links or have new ones? Maybe the oem links are too long and you need additional spacers/washers. Also, did you dismantle the strut top? Sure you have the bearing reassembled correctly? If the sequence of washers and spacers is off here, you can get a very distinctive noise from this. Cheers!

They will be a full array, not individual bulbs. They will be multi-function - Driving, Brake, Reverse and Turn Indicator They will 'live' inside the current lamp fixture, using the existing lenses. They will be available for both Roundie and Square Tail light fixtures, though each is unique and designed for their respective fixtures. Quite a bit of thought was put into each design, in fact, several designs were executed and studied to determine the 'best' arrangement before settling on the final prototype. They are much more than just a tailored PC board with LEDs afixed. That's all I can say for now, except to say that this will far surpass simply adding individual LED bulbs as is currently available. Cheers!

I am limited in what I can comment on at this time. But, I approached the Mfgr. late last year and together we have been working up prototypes using one of my square tail lights and a roundie we bought on ebay. These will be shortly installed in my car for beta-testing in real world conditions, so my car will be the first in the World to have these - . It is safe to say that they are multi-lamp, multi-function, arrays which will be plug&play, totally non-destructive and reversable. The advantages will be increased visibility - brighter than current incandescent system, low power consumption, lower operating temperature - no more melted reflectors, and enhanced safety - given normal reaction times, a trailing car at 60MPH will get on the brakes 7 feet sooner. The Mfgr. is well established producing similar arrays for other classics of all types - euro, asian and american, and has a full dealer/distribution system in place. That's all I can say for now, except that their introduction will first be announced on this forum. Cheers!

There is going to be a very nice LED option for the Tail lights (Square and Round) soon on the market. The prototype and development phase is complete and beta testing is just beginning. Look for them to be on the market by early summer. Cheers!

A sulphur or rotten egg smell is most closely associated with gear oil or ATF. These include sulphur compounds in their mix to resist compression when between the gear faces. Are you certain that you didn't mix up any of these? Is it possible that what you smelt is coming from the tranny? Maybe a leaky seal? Cheers!

Uh... sorry guys, but this is NONESENSE! Think about it... what you're advocating is spinning the 'dry' motor on the starter to avoid spinning the 'dry' motor via combustion. The motor is not 'dry' at all - there is already an oil film present on all the internals. It may sound same-same, but actually cranking on the starter will prolong the system filling and pressurizing because the starter cranks at much lower RPMs than idle speed. The oil pump is RPM dependent to reach max flow and pressure - the faster it spins, the faster everything is back to normal. I don't advocate running at RPMs higher than idle for long, but idle speed is better than starter speed. It is virtually the same as starting the car in the morning or on weekends - do you disconnect the coil when you do this too? Is oil pooling in the sump after an oil change/fill any different than oil pooled in the sump before a cold start? Gravity pulls the oil to the sump after shutdown the same way it does before you drain it for an oil change or you wouldn't be able to drain it all (most) out. This IS sound advice - to pre-fill the filter to avoid any delays in floating the crank. But, starting the engine, with an oil film already present for such a short time poses little, if any, risk of bearing starvation. Cheers!

Just a reminder of the InterMarque Council 16th annual 2010 Spring Kick Off Exhibition of Vintage European Motorcars coming up on Sat. May 22 at Como Park in Saint Paul. Pre-registration is required and FREE! See Calendar for more details or visit the InterMarque website at www.intermarque.org for more details. My 2002 will be there and it would be nice to have some company and meet some of the local 2002 crazies! Spring Kick Off

Sounds like you may have blown the voltage regulator, at least that's where I'd look first. Cheers!

Yes, that's the part. Have already sourced one thanks to another Forum member. If things don't work out, I'll give you a shout! Thanks! Cheers!

(nt)

Good Stuff! Cheers!

WTB LOWER TRIM PANEL PN# 32311110912. This is the lower trim panel that surrounds the steering column, holds the slip ring horn contact and also the ignition lock - item #12 in the pic below. TIA Cheers!

It is a 240... BMW-318i E30 M10 1.8 liter. 5-speed. Cheers!

It is a 240... BMW-318i E30 M10 1.8 liter. 5-speed. Cheers!

It is a 240... BMW-318i E30 M10 1.8 liter. 5-speed. Cheers!

'76 Auto here... soon to be a 5-spd., just got the car myself 6 mos. ago. The ZF 3HP 12 is a very reliable automatic transmission providing you religiously swap the fluid and filter every 30k mi. (sooner in severe use). I'm converting to manual because this is not a dd and I want it to be more fun. I will mothball the 3HP 12 in case I ever want to swap it back someday. If the car is otherwise sound and the price is good, I'd say go for it. Cheers!

Part of the emissions - EGR or air pump valve. Cheers!

The Clutch Master Cylinder that is... '76 Auto-to-5 Spd. conversion here. Existing Brake Master Cylinder Fluid Reservoir has no outlet for the Clutch MC. How are people solving this? Part numbers and links are much appreciated! TIA Cheers!

Replacing seals on the outputs is not too bad, because you don't have to disturb the actual setup required on the gearset. You have to pay attention & there's some mechanical aptitude required, but nothing you can't do at home with instructions. But the input seal (where the driveshaft connects) is not a simple task. The input seal requires removal of the pinion gear, and there is a crush sleeve that must be swapped out and the torque for the nut is critical and very high. And all of this has to be done correct to have both the bearing preload & pinion depth setting work out with the shim you have. In short, the pinion seal at the front of the diff is not a rookie job. I agree that some experience would be necessary, but I am used to using a spring balance and setting up pre-loads. The crush bearing is pretty cheap and it's probably smart to have 2 on hand because if you overshoot on torque, the crush bearing is shot as it is one-time use. My questions are: How do you drive the drive flanges back - tap or press? And, the taper bearings on the input are very expensive. Has anyone ever cross-referenced these? It's not likely that it's at all unique - most designers work with off-the-shelf components, especially when it comes to bearings. One of the largest bearing distributors in the country is a mile from my home and I'm tempted to pull the bearings and take them in to see what they may have, maybe even a better sealed bearing setup. Cheers!

2002 auxilliary lamp brackets Cheers!