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02for2

Solex
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Everything posted by 02for2

  1. Chrome Nuts and Bolts Cheers!
  2. Well, I thought they were real and not aftermarket because of this set for sale in Germany - Pretty spendy though @$800USD + S/H - If I had Blunt or Max's money, maybe. But I don't so I'll have to pass. Cheers!
  3. Assuming you car is running, the wiring is already in place. Just connect the black wire w/ spade connector and swap the 3-prong connector to the proper socket (idiot proof - only goes one way) on the back cluster circuit board. Cheers!
  4. You're talking about the Roadsport Suspension pkg. from Korman? Those are H&R springs. I installed this pkg. last Oct. Very satisfied with the parts and the ride. Pkg. includes Bilstein HDs, H&R springs, Suspension Techniques sways and prothane bushes. The springs lower the car a little more than .5" though, it's closer to 1". But that's not too low and the stance looks very good. Cheers!
  5. I am very happy with the Roadsport Suspension from Korman Racing. Good ride quality and excellent body roll control. They are also offering a set of just the H&R springs separately, you can even make an offer and I bet you'd get em for $200 - it shows Suspension Techniques box in the photo, but they're H&Rs - mine came the same way. Cheers!
  6. I read a thread here in the past two weeks and someone referred to a modification necessary for European Turn Signals. I just received a pair of NOS turn signals from Germany. I noticed that it uses a different mount for the wiring. My curent US signals have two mounting posts for the two wires coming from the fender, a + and a -, these are screws posts where the wire is inserted and them screwed to clamp them to the post. The Euro signals I got have only a single wire mount, a mount which uses a spring latch to capture/hold the wire (+ wire I presume and chassis ground?). Is it this difference which necessitates the modification? I have searched for more than an hour, but cannot find anything regarding a mod for Euro signals. Does anyone have a DIY for this mod or a link to the thread which discusses it? TIA! Cheers!
  7. Using a pickle fork risks tearing the boot. Best thing is a pair of hammers. Hold one against the arm and hit the other side with the other one, a couple decent whacks and it'll pop loose. Cheers!
  8. So... are you taking orders...??? Looks great! Nice work! Cheers!
  9. Interested in the Shifter boot and plastic and the valve cover. Reply to: mcfadden_jim hotmail com (fill in the dots) Cheers!
  10. Do you have the PN# for this e30 auto reservoir unit? TIA! Cheers!
  11. Water Hose Water Pump to Intake Manifold or possibly Water Hose Temperature Switch Housing to Intake Manifold Cheers!
  12. The way to do it is to loosen both ends and then turn the rod between the tie rod end and the inner ball joint - each side is an opposite thread, turning the center rod lengthens/shortens the whole assembly. Not always possible with an old, rusted and possibly bent one. In this case, you would need to remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle, but still turn both ends. I replaced mine last Oct. with the whole assembly from Mahle @ $22.53 - these were on closeout from Bimmerspecialist.com. I see they no longer have these and instead are using OCAP brand @ 59. I see that KO Performance has this same unit for $47.13, still not a bad price for a whole new assembly. KO Peformance Cheers!
  13. Try this: Metal Swivel Cap for Motive Products Power Bleeder . This fits the OEM Reservoir (I know, I have one for my Motive) and it swivels meaning that you don't have to spin the whole bleeder to get it on/off, like when adding more fluid to the bottle. Cheers!
  14. POR-15 Engine Enamel or POR-15 High Temp Paint Both these work very well. You can search the website for info on thinning it to use a disposable sprayer, though it flows well and a foam applicator will give good results without brushmarks. Cheers!
  15. Check your pedal box, a leaky MC can collect fluid there even though it's not visible anywhere else. Cheers!
  16. Agreed. Porsche even uses Time-Serts to repair stripped cylinder head taps in the block. Of course, drilling out the old tap absolutely square is essential, but take your time and it's not difficult. Cheers!
  17. I have a spare trunk lock in good appearance and working order if you need to destroy the one you have. You would need to have a key made (cost me $12 to do this last Oct.), but the code is stamped on the lock cylinder. You need to unscrew the end piece and remove the outer tube, then you'll see the lock code #. Oddly enough, I had a locksmith make me a key using this code and the code also cross-referenced to an early VW Golf/Rabbit/GTi/Jetta ignition key in the locksmith's database. So, if you have an early VW Golf/Rabbit/GTi/Jetta, try it's ignition key and it may work. Cheers!
  18. There are lots of Oil Filter magnets of one type or the other on the market, ranging from a disposable type ceramic magnet (you drop it inside the center channel of the spin-on filter where it sticks to the internals, then you throw it and the filter away) to the wrap-around and end-cap types. Their cost ranges from $1 (disposable type) to more than $60 for the end-cap type. A filter magnet is a good thing... paying $60 for one isn't. I use a rare earth magnetic disc measuring 1"x 0.125" . It attaches to the outside of the filter cannister. It has a Pull Force of 10.69lb (4849g), so once attached, it's not going anywhere and it is stronger than any of the other products out there so is sure to do as good, if not better, a job. When it's time to change the oil, just pull off the magnet and attach it to the next filter. Best of all, they come in a 4-pak for $9.99. I have been using them on all our cars for about 4 yrs and once cut the filter cannister open to see what the magnet actually captured - no chunks (thank God) but lots of ferrous goo, so I know it did it's job well. See them here - Rare Earth Magnets Cheers!
  19. From the looks of things, I think you're due. The muffler is corroded along the seam and will be the next thing to go. Also, you really should get a proper Rubber Ring to hang it, they're cheap - move Uptown and get rid of that coat hanger wire! As far as the other exhaust system, is it used? If not, I've never seen a $50 exhaust worth much. It would fit with some fiddling. The hangers are different (same hangers, different position) and the tailpipe runs out the rear center of the car instead of on the right as the earlier models. These aren't deal breakers because you can have new hangers welded in the right places and weld in a 90° bend so it'll exit the proper place. Cheers! Cheers!
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