Jump to content

02for2

Solex
  • Posts

    1,172
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by 02for2

  1. Planning an upcoming conversion for my '76 Auto. How do you guys deal with the differences in consoles? Do you just up and find one from a Manual? Or is there a way of retaining the original Auto console to accomodate the manual shifter and boot(s)? TIA! Cheers!
  2. I don't think you can go wrong with the Roadsport Suspension setup from Korman Racing - H&R springs, Bilstein HDs, Susp. Techniques Sway Bars, Prothane poly bushings. Each of the components can be sourced separately, perhaps for even less $ if you're willing to do the legwork, but the setup is really great. Cheers!
  3. In the US, front seatbelts were required for the 1964 model year. In 1968, rear seatbelts were required. Cheers!
  4. I explained why... if you didn't understand it, I can explain it again a little differently. With the negative (or positive for that matter) terminal disconnected, the charger, maintainer, tender or whatever ONLY has a circuit to and with the battery. That means that the 'smart' circuitry in the maintainer which monitors the battery charge isn't being fooled by incidental draw from the car's ancillaries such as the radio station-set memory, or any other appliances - clocks, brake or dome lights, or 4-way flashers for instance, which continue to draw current when the ignition switch is OFF, not to mention any possible shorts. On a Bike, none of it's appliances work unless the key is in the ignition and switched to ON or ACC, not the headlamp, turn signals or brake lamps, so there is no need to disconnect the battery from the Bikes circuitry. On a car however, there are lots of appliances which do not require the ignition to be ON or at ACC to draw current. If you do not disconnect the battery from the car's circuitry, there can still be a current draw which the maintainer can mistakenly interpret to be a battery not at full charge and so it continues to send a charging current when it shouldn't. Hope this better explains it. Cheers!
  5. One other point about wet cell car batteries. Allowing them to discharge is very bad for the battery and will ultimately lead to premature failure of the battery. The SAE did a study and found that each time a battery is discharged, it loses 15% of it's ability to hold a charge. This means that any battery which has been discharged is compromised and that after 5 or more discharges in it's life, the battery is essensially useless. Cheers!
  6. This is so you remove any possibility of creating a circuit through the battery tender and the car. Some systems, relays, radio station-set memory etc. create a constant albeit minute current draw even when the car is off. This current draw can be interpreted by the battery tender as a battery not fully charged and so instead of cutting off as it should once the battery is charged, it continues to throw current to the battery which can cause loss of electrolyte and subsequent sulphating of the battery's internal plates. Cheers!
  7. One word - Leatherique They will match your color exactly and their system works extremely well. I had a friend who dyed the Black leather interior on his Lotus Esprit Tan - that's Black to Tan - near impossible most would say. But Leatherique made up the dye and using their products, he did it. Came out looking very professional and 5 yrs. later still looks fresh. Cheers!
  8. Should be a fairly simple job of replacing the pin, if nopt original, then maybe one from the BMW steering wheel itself. I've heard they are NLA, but I know for a fact that they're not. Cheers!
  9. I maintain 4 batteries during the winter storage season and have used a single battery maintainer for all 4 for the past 5 yrs. w/ excellent results. I use the Schumacher Battery Companion (<$30) w/ free shipping from Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=schumacher+battery+companion&tag=yahhyd-20&index=aps&hvadid=31011393511&ref=pd_sl_4ubx48qy36_b I swap it weekly between all four batteries and it's always done the job - all batteries in top health. All 4 batteries are removed from their respective vehicles and sit on my bench throughout the season - 4-5 months each year. There are more expensive ones out there, but this one has proven more than adequate at a reasonable price. Cheers!
  10. Hi, Interesting solution... something I've thought of and looked into. Do you have a source or PN# for the locknuts? TIA! Cheers!
  11. Realize the issue is a stuck bleeder. But be sure to use flare nut wrenches to get the best grip on the valve and to prevent rounding off the hex. Cheers!
  12. Unless you're committed to the M10 as a novelty, there are much better powerplants out there for a Caterham or Birkin. Why go with an antiquated motor and ignition? Get a Ford Zetec or crossflow, lighter, more tunable. My buddy has a birkin super seven w/ Zetec ands it flies. Great ignition and EFI and any ford dealer can supply service or parts. Cheers!
  13. There are lots of sources. I bought the whole kit - sways, springs, bilsteins and prothanes from Korman Racing as a kit, their 2002 Roadsport Suspension. The H&Rs say they lower .5", but I found it's slightly more than 1". They do say the pieces are available separately too, see - http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/catalog.htm Cheers!
  14. Same setup - H&Rs and HD Bilsteins, but went with prothane bushings all around and Susp. Techniques sways (smaller than IE iirc). VG ride quality and handling, very flat in the corners. And, all this on 175R/70 13 Pirelli P5 Cinturato tires on oem steelies - don't forget the difference the rubber can make. Cheers!
  15. Well, the geezer topping off the MC doesn't bother me at all. It's common to top off the MC as your pads wear. What does bother me is burning all that glycol-based fluid and releasing it to atmosphere. Also hope the geezer doesn't have an O² sensor, because he won't have for long... Cheers!
  16. I am dealing with this right now. Mine came loose. I am hopeful that the holes have not elongated, but suspect that may well be the issue. I'm gonna give it another go with tightening and locktiting and if that doesn't work, I'm gonna look for another half-shaft. There are also longer cap bolts available - M8X60 instead of the M8X55, so I may try those if I can find a thinner than standard nut to put on the outside of the receiver. Good Luck! Cheers!
  17. Those are really for racing applications - to keep the rocks out. Used in a street car, they'll pass plenty of dirt and grit which is not a good thing. Aside from increased wear and tear to the internals, you'll be cleaning the carbs much more frequently. A non-issue on a race car because they're rebuilt more often, sometimes between each race. Your car and your choice, but personally, I would use a paper filter. Cheers!
  18. +1 on a long pipe wrench. Have you checked the new shocks? They often come with a new nut for the strut (in the case of Bilsteins because the rod is thicker and the OEM strut nut won't work) which means it doesn't matter if you maul the old ones to get them off, IIRC, this is how the new Bilstein HDs come. I swapped mine out a couple months ago and it seems I didn't reuse the old sleeve nuts, just clamped the strut in a vice and had at it with the pipe wrench. Cheers!
  19. +1 - Great system and easy install. Cheers!
  20. I went with the complete IE stainless exhaust system for my '76, and because my car had the Thermal Reactor emissions manifold, I replaced it with a new Tii manifold as well (Thanks Steve!). The IE system is a little challenging to install - it takes a bit of fiddling to get it right, and IE has a history of sending the wrong kit - has happened to several owners here, incl. me. But, once installed, it's a nice system - plenty tight and with decent clearance. The sound is good (esp. for the street) and the larger id tubing, along with the Tii manifold gives excellent flow w/o sacrificing any low-end. The quality is good and should last the life of the car making it's slightly higher initial purchase price even out over time. Cheers!
  21. Anyone have it? Recommendations? Mounting issues? Does it work for both flared and non-flared cars? TIA Cheers!
  22. The 2002 Registry boasts some 2,916 cars, several of them listed as being located in europe. Assuming that these euro cars aren't double listed, the total # of cars in the combined database totals 6,705. Out of a total produced worldwide of 861,940, this represents a mere 0.77% of total production surviving. There are likely many more unaccounted for, but it's still pretty grim. Contrast that to Porsche which boasts that 70% of all their cars produced are still on the road and you'll see what I mean. My recently acquired '76 2002 was off the Radar Screen for more than 30 yrs. Cheers!
  23. Could be several things, your suggestion of loose wiring or bad ground is amongst them. Also, could be faulty solenoid - use DMM to check for voltage to the solenoid contacts. Could well be the switch (electrical portion of ignition lock) itself, esp. since it was loose in the past which may have put added pressure (possibly laterally) to the internal contacts causing them to wear. This can be checked for continuity in all positions again using a DMM (w/ continuity function - they all don't have this feature). Good Luck! Cheers!
  24. Micheal Schumacher joins Mercedes Benz to drive F1 for the 2010 season! http://www.f1network.net/main/s169/st152638.htm Cheers!
×
×
  • Create New...