AceAndrew

There is/was factory sound deadening on the outer skin. It was one piece placed in a *edit* RECTANGLE orientation on a chunk of the cars I’ve seen. as for the inner panel, sure you can add some there. I did the recessed portions so as to not make it difficult to install the door panels over top. *edit* Traced the shapes, then transferred to the sound deadening material (I like Hushmat, as it doesn't have as foul of a smell as some of the china-sourced cheaper amazon options).

If I recall correctly, the last one through BMW sold four/five years ago. The oem rubber bushings aren’t cheap either, but at least they’re available for now.

And I would suggest a different vendor

Installing new rubber diff hanger bushings is a PITA. Two-piece urethane is so easy it’s almost cheating. I would suggest a press, a correctly sized piece of aluminum round, and patience. Little lube helps, but the press is the biggest help. The metal ring the rubber is attached to will deform relatively easily. It’s easy to start, but just make sure it’s squared up as it goes further in. Asymmetrical entry will not go well. Your results may vary.

Yes, you've pretty much nailed it. It's a reground 292 cam (you can see the base circle is slightly indented). Schneider has done regrounds for IE in the past, so that also checks out. Given the cam paired with a 32/36, lightened flywheel, and petronix ... spec-wise the engine is in a nice spot as is. If you wanted to chase some extra power the next step would be headers/exhaust and a 38/38. For tuning itself, what is the tune now?

We’re trying to keep you from making a mistake, with some comic relief thrown in to soften the constructive criticism. The weight of the 0.25” panels would be around 50lbs by my napkin calculation. Compared to 0.080 (Which is used in similar industrial panel applications. thinner options of .074 or less would also be fine.) at around 11lbs.

I can only assume you're trolling, haha.

Marshall, Not if you swap in the low-pressure pump from an early E30 (or a multitude of other low-pressure options). https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/116731-m20-triple-weber-build-x2/page/13/ That's a really cool idea to integrate the low-fuel light in though.

Paul, I used a later heater core and valve in an early box. Not quite what you envision, but maybe it's on option. For the early fan I have a supplier/industry part number listed on a spreadsheet that reads : A61473.

oof.... well, more power to him. However, there is a gentleman in my area who has a Hillman Imp that I've been dreaming of doing this to.

Welcome to the faq! Looks like a fun project, what are your long term goals? BMW friends don’t let bmw friends buy from ecs/pelican/turner, plenty of enthusiast owned suppliers as linked above.

Your mentality needs to be that the car is not BAT material, but nore is it “tow-to-the-junk-yard” material, because then no one wins. Based off of the corrosion in your photos (and my perspective being on the west coast)… it could make for a nice parts car to an enthusiast. I would price it between $1,000-$2,500…. But that advice is worth what you paid for it

Reading this with great envy. Great work Mark. I also need a longer cross member... if your brother is interested in making/selling an extra.

Appreciate the response. Within the astro r&d side, I've have several instances where a bolt is stripped of a plating and replated in something else with subsequent testing showing negligible effects (at least with the acid baths used in the process). I also understand the age/load-cycle worry. However, as you note, on an automotive application it's generally very conservative. Just for giggles I have roughly analyzed a couple of the suspension bolts and found that their use was far into the infinite life end of things. The only ones that come close to being treated as something to be replaced were the six safety-wired-pitman-arm-bolts. Of course, if the bolt is damaged/stretched/etc it belongs in the neighbor's pool. I get the concern, but to each their own... would still love to talk shop via PM.

The originals are a finely textured satin black paint. Not an overlay. I replicated it as closely as possible as shown here, hopefully these'll help show the texture .... *edit: to state the obvious, I was trying to replicate the black center portion only, not the other details unique to Alpina.

This is not true. Where did you see this?.. so I can go slap them around a bit.

Not to take away from the awesome 3rd brake light pics… but with regards to shift knobs…. The IE shift knob was one of the last pieces I designed for IE before heading out. The 5-speed emblem was specifically drawn up to pay homage to the period Aamco 4-speed emblem. The knob shape was designed to resemble a slightly upsized Alpina knob, which I found to be a tad bit dainty feeling.

In the small chance it's prebent brakelines. It's my fault.

Just before Christmas I loaded up the titanium tubing into a box and Andrew (Ireland Eng) was kind enough to stop by during finals week to tow the car up to Drago's shop (Candela Mfg). Drago was very kind in offering to take the car on. Here is when he was tacking up the exhaust. Even though we've got 2.5" Ti, I wanted to maintain the stock look and opted for the original-style side exit. IMG_2333 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr HEADERS: One of the primary goals in the make up of the characteristic of the car was to have a higher-pitched sound. To that end Drago and I did some brainstorming and he went to work. To coax out the higher frequencies the primaries start with some generous loops. A crossover was added close behind the first merge collectors to emulate a 6-into1 setup (there was not enough room for a true 6-into-1 merge). The final pitch-related consideration was the addition of a sharp bend at the bottom. Hopefully it works, but given it's a bit of an experiment there's always the chance it'll flop! IMG_2408 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr Mocked up IMG_1732 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr Once the headers and exhaust were finished, Drago asked to use the car as a basis to make a different set of headers/exhaust for Forrest (Kooglewerks) to sell. Given how helpful Forrest is and how tightknit the 02 community is in general, it was a no brainer. Here's how that setup ended up looking! https://www.instagram.com/p/CpBB73FPZcm/ With the exhaust/headers wrapped up, we rolled the car a 1/4 mile up the street to Ireland Engineering. It was surreal to see it back on the lift where I did the initial tear down in 2016! IMG_2417 by Adams Autosport, on Flickr I am planning on running an E30 driveshaft for it's stronger center bearing. So while at IE, Andrew welded in the relocated center support mounting brackets. I wrote down the dimensions needed for the driveshaft and sent it off to be chopped/rebuilt. The car is now back home, and I haven't touched it in two months (given the spring semester is in full swing). Once finals are done next month I'll be sorting out the following: 1) Shifter setup (need to decide to mount it to the tunnel, or trans-mounted platform) 2) With shifter setup done, install driveshaft, headers, and exhaust 3) Use left over 2.5" Titanium tubing to make a radiator overflow and engine catch car. 4) Wiring wiring wiring

An untouched period NOS shell should have nicks/scratches and signs of being 50 years old. However, this car appears absolutely flawless. At a minimum, the "NOS shell" was repaired and painted in a fresh grey primer (the overspray on the mounting legs gives that away). Given that I don't speak German I'm curious what they are actually claiming.

Ronin Autowerks (Fullerton)