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AceAndrew

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Everything posted by AceAndrew

  1. AceAndrew
    I'm with you. The welds along the bottom of the rear firewall (trunk side) are a-typical. -has been proven wrong lots of times.
  2. AceAndrew
    lol, just snorted water up my nose. That's got to be eco friendly ... did my part for today.
  3. AceAndrew
    Looks awesome! So clean/understated (sans flares) on the exterior with a zippy monster underneath. It seems like you're going to have a lot of fun putting it through the paces in the days ahead. Was happy to see the pictures Patrick texted me of the car when he was in the thick of it. Very jealous it's done and being driven!
  4. AceAndrew
    Give yourself 20minutes each. You could do it in half the time, but you may want to pull it out and restart one or twice. Once you start, try not to have to reset the lock strip, as that will give you waves.
  5. AceAndrew
    Here’s where I answered this question a couple months ago. Please consider utilizing the search function a bit more next time. Happy to help though.
  6. AceAndrew
    Short length is for the trans tunnel route (generally considered the early style) Longer length is the version where it routes out to the rocker around the floor pan indent (generally considered the late style). Yours sounds similar to how it should be given the model year, but cannot definitively say without a picture. Either route works fine.
  7. AceAndrew
    Reach out to Deves and Hastings. Offer to send in a piston worth of your used set. https://www.hastingspistonrings.com/ http://www.deves.com/
  8. AceAndrew
    I like your trim choices. The gauge cluster, early door panels, rear bumper, KW hood hinges, and wheels are a nice pop on the subtle grey paint color. What driving trips are you planning?
  9. AceAndrew
    Simply put; under promise and over deliver. There will always be those where it's never enough but at least you're completely in the clear. It's been ten years or more since there has been a properly exuberant Esty post. Didn't think I'd be on the receiving end though, haha! No worries, colorful characters are part of what make the 2002 community not boring (on that note, I miss @c.d.iesel and his neighbor's pool)
  10. AceAndrew
    OK... to fully articulate The wheel was willingly priced at the shockingly high end of the market while the scratches were described as “small”. This reality is inextricably linked to the issue at hand, to ignore this is to not fully address the problem. At least, I wouldn’t be doing conkitchen any long term favors by ignoring this. When selling used parts in the future, I’d simply suggest you preemptively over exaggerate any flaws in the text of your responses. Pictures are great, and so are words. - My worthless .02
  11. AceAndrew
    Thanks for the chuckle. I must not know very much about selling parts and dealing with jilted enthusiasts.
  12. AceAndrew
    Cracks are visible but you also overcharged by a rather large amount. For $150 and I would be expecting a pristine wheel… regardless of pictures.
  13. AceAndrew
    Good on you! There are too many who are too afraid to peel that back. It's an essential part of a full proper restoration.
  14. AceAndrew
    There are also some decent directions in the article section here on the FAQ that outlines adding relays for the headlights
  15. AceAndrew
    Midway through 1971 there were large changes to the electrical system (as recently reiterated this was the change from the 6-fuse the 12-fuse systems). Knowing the model year is not enough information in this case.
  16. AceAndrew
    I chalk it up to it being from ZF. Most errors in the parts book are related to outsourced parts (Getrag, etc.)
  17. AceAndrew
    Not all steering boxes had that spacer washer. Some omitted that washer by having a taller bearing race (#5).
  18. AceAndrew
    Yes, it was part of the model-71 changes. pre April 1971 had the slim 6-fuse box post April 1971 had the 12-fuse box There were lots of nuances in the wiring over the production years. @pato2002 made a cool option a couple years ago. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/203932-ultimate-relays-and-fuses-upgrade/page/2/#comments https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/entry/1896-fuse-block-upgrade/
  19. AceAndrew
    This needs to be an ongoing thread.
  20. AceAndrew
    OK, given you don't know the manufacturer ... The connection on the camber plate is typically a spherical bearing or ball joint. If you are able to remove it (perhaps held in via a snap ring is something) then there may be size or manufacturing markings on it. Order based on that information. If the camber plate is "solid" meaning the bearing is not damped via rubber/urethane, then that is a pretty frequent replacement item. Given rough non-race-track roads, the replacement interval can be even more frequent (say... a couple thousand miles or even less). ------------------------------------------- As for diagnosing your driving issues, that could be related to many things. There are a lot of relevant threads that could help you make a check list of things to look for.
  21. AceAndrew
    Some of my most frustrating experiences has been attempts to redeem insurance claims from shipping providers. Nice to hear some good news.
  22. AceAndrew
    Vimzo ... Replacing just the upper strut mounts will entirely depend on your coilovers. Here are the questions we need answers to in order to help. 1) What coilovers do you have? Any indication on manufacturer? 2) What strut mounts do you have currently? Are they camber plates or stock rubber mounts? 3) What is the diameter of the strut shaft where it goes through the strut mount? ** Now if you want to remove your coilovers and go back to stock front strut assemblies, then you will need a pair of complete unmodified strut assemblies. You can place an add here on the wanted section of the forum. However, as you likely know, shipping to SA is not cheap for heavy/big items. (I remember shipping swaybars there was more than the cost of the $440 swaybars themselves)
  23. AceAndrew
    Very cool. Looks like oodles of room
  24. AceAndrew
    haha, yeeeahh I don't think they'd want to warranty it ... but you've already come this far... Think there are a couple chopping pictures from a couple years back on my blog.... hopefully they serve as a better visual if you want to consider it. https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/116731-m20-triple-weber-build-x2/page/8/ Also see you're in Boise. Small world (graduated from Timberline), want to drive my 02 up your way in the next couple years. Maybe meet up with @M3This?
  25. AceAndrew
    You're not wrong, it's a good idea. The radiator I show in the picture is also from the E30/E36. However, you can take the bottom part off with a bandsaw and weld new plates on the bottom, this shortens the radiator enough for better clearance. If you look closely the tops of the frame rails are notched as well.
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