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bills2002

Solex
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Everything posted by bills2002

  1. bills2002
    On my auto to manual conversion? So far everything on this conversion has gone very well but tonight when I tried to turn the motor over with the ignition switch I got nothing. No click, hum or buzz...nada. I have a couple of wires which went to the safety switch on the auto box and I read there is a starter interrupt relay somewhere. What do I need to do with the electrics to make this conversion work?
  2. bills2002
    tork specks ees 4 poosies..gud n tite is rite
  3. bills2002
    So, if I move to AZ (which I will be doing in 3 yrs) will the rust that is on my car reverse itself. Cause I gotta tell u, if I can avoid that tab for body work, I might move that date up
  4. bills2002
    Uhh, isn't that what a starter is supposed to look like? Ur going to need a new radiator, fan and motor mounts.
  5. bills2002
    It came off an '80 I think. Got it for $15 at the Pull-A-Part yard. No mod needed. I used the factory mounts ( I took the shocks and all off the e21) and fabricated the mounting tubes from galvinized fence post material. I squashed one end in the vise to accept the bumper end mounting bracket, slid the pipe into the mounting points until I had the bumper where I wanted it, marked the spot on the pipe thru the bolt holes, drilled and mounted. Super easy. If you go to a salvage yard, be sure to take the shocks with the bumper off the e21. It is the easiest way to remove the bumper...just two bolts and they are reasonably accessible.
  6. bills2002
    I'll have to find some o2 accordians and modify them a bit. I think the e21 and m10 accordians attached to the bumper in the same fashion. The fender attachments, however, are different...so I must work with the m10 accordians and trash these e21 units.
  7. bills2002
    shift platform bolts went bye-bye.
  8. bills2002
    These are from a couple weeks back. I hope to have this one on the track at Barber for O'fest.
  9. bills2002
    Hey Nate, I'm in for two sets (don't ask). $14 to the PP adress listed above, right?
  10. bills2002
    OK, you didn't do yourself any favors just showing us pictures of the bad news. But I have seen guys take just as bad a case and dump tons of time and money into the resto. You'll never erver make your money back on this one...must be a labor of love. The good is that you probably have lots of good useable parts on this one. Pull the engine and rebuild it whaile you wait for a better body to put it in. Catalog all of the parts you strip off this one and sell the tub for scrap (about $50). In the process of stripping it down you will learn and grow to appreciate the simplicity of these machines. The last picture looks like what is left of the driver's side rear floor and it sealed the deal for me...not worth saving.
  11. bills2002
    Ah! This would explain why the plastic elbow fitting like the ones used in the brake mc doesn't fit in the clutch mc that well. I'll scrounge up my metal line. Thanks.
  12. bills2002
    Well Jason, as tempting as that sounds, i would like to save some of the blue hose for my next rebuild but want this one to come out correct. So would it be appropriate to run the blue line all of the way to the clutch mc?
  13. bills2002
    for the hard plastic line between the brake fluid resivoir and the clutch master cylinder? I have enough of the blue braided line to reach but in every picture I see just an inch or so blue hose connected to a plastic line. Is it anything special or will any plastic line do the trick? Got lots of old emission tubing left over;)
  14. bills2002
    Score!
  15. bills2002
    Please take some dailed pics of the engine bay before you strip it.
  16. bills2002
    Holy crap, how utterly anal of you. If you hadn't removed that hard won protective film of grease, oil and road grime you wouldn't have to worry about painting it...now you have to paint it to keep it from rusting away ;-) Here's a thought: Since you went to so much trouble, why not powder coat it?
  17. bills2002
    try it, what have you got to lose? I have deleted that coolant line in my project because I'm using a e21 water neck that doesn't have that outlet so hopefully won't face that problem. I do now in my running car and will be trying the pipe insulation...good idea!
  18. bills2002
    Is the only difference between auto and manual speedo cables the length? In other words, and the real question, can I use the speedo cable from an auto box on a four speed manual?
  19. bills2002
    I seem to recall there was some charging system feedback loop in that v-reg plug. Maybe I got that off the FAQ, but I'm leaving the plug alone and just tying it back in place.
  20. bills2002
    +1 Amen brother Toby
  21. bills2002
    Gosh I wish I had known about these before I bought that stock version from you. Don't imagine I could exchange ;-)
  22. bills2002
    I've driven several of each (actually owned several of each) and I'll take the one on the right.
  23. bills2002
    Probably the best thing to do is post a picture of the rear airdam and ask for input on a matching front. You'll have a new one in hand pretty quick.
  24. bills2002
    Whew, disregard! I had a helper hold one rear wheel in place while I tried to turn the other. With the car in gear it wouldn't turn but when I took it out of gear it spun easily. This must be normal behaviour...go back to your regularly scheduled programing.
  25. bills2002
    I am about to put the project car on the ground and wire up the engine. I connected the driveshaft last night and it went in great. Today after I had put the car in gear to check clearance of the shift linkage, the prop shaft wouldn't turn...that's good. But when I was messing around with the rear end I was able to turn the rear wheels by hand, with it in gear...not good? Or is this appropriate (the rear wheels both turned in opposite directions)? UhOh, I am starting to feel the heat of flame coming on, you can call me a noob on this one;-)
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