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  1. A couple of years ago I did the interior on a '61 Alfa and the owner was dead set on Spinneybeck. It is absolutely gorgeous material, but not cheap. The woven material is done on a custom basis depending on the hide color you select. It's then sent back to their factory in Italy and the strands cut to a couple of widths to choose from, we went with 5mm. Then it's woven and adhered onto a cotton back to give it strength and structure. My recollection is that the minimum order is 55 sq/ft, and the cost was about $3,500 including taxes, shipping, etc... Also keep in mind that if you want the non-woven leather portions to be a perfect color match (such as the red in this case) then you'll likely want to order these from Spinneybeck too, and their hides are about $1,000 each. On this particular Alfa the leather alone was about $7k. Again, beautiful stuff, but not cheap. Hydes Leather has something similar also, but I think the pricing is comparable if I remember correctly.
  2. Congrats, looks great. I've done German Square weave in my last two cars and absolutely love the stuff.
  3. This is a fantastic build, congrats. I've seen a couple of your cars at Sonoma and Laguna and they are done to a stunning level. With all due respect, those seats still don't feel up to the level of the rest of this build, the one on the right looks like it just got over-stuffed with foam to try to take up the wrinkles, and the seams up at the top don't match between the two. Again, said with the greatest of respect for the beautiful cars you have built. With any luck, once they are in the car, they will look fantastic and those little details will melt away.
  4. As somebody who has done a decent amount of upholstery, including a couple pairs of E21 Recaros (one set for me, and one for a friend) I just want to help put in perspective the job. Those seats are fairly complex, my recollection is that each seat is either 19 or 21 individual pieces. If you are patterning that from scratch, it's a time consuming affair. Even if you have an original set to take apart, it still takes a while to lay out and get fitted just right. Also, as many well know, the side bolsters on these seats are often shot, and no exact pre-formed foam replacements are available, so you are doing something custom here. The seat backs are often also bent and lean to one side, so fixing that takes a bit of time and perhaps some welding up of cracks in the frame. If you want French seams, each of those seams will need three passes unless you have a twin-needle machine, and you can't go at a super high speed if you are trying to get the seams dead straight and looking good. If you've done these before then perhaps you have patterns which can save some time (hence places like Aardvarc can hammer them out more quickly and cost-effectively.) However, I'd say you are looking at a solid day for each seat, at least. Oh, and you have to factor in time for taking off the old covers, as well as installing the new ones, which are a bit of a bear. And again, doing it right and getting all the wrinkles out takes time and expertise. So, maybe best case is 20 hours of work (I'm kinda slow and am sure it takes me more than that.) What is a "fair" price to pay a skilled craftsperson? You pay a mechanic $100+ in pretty much any big city these days. And then there are the materials. Vinyl is pretty cheap, but a couple of leather hides will be $600+ just for raw materials. Long story short. I understand that the dollars can seem high, but when you break it down, and you have a desire for quality work and materials, that's just the reality of it. My two cents.
  5. It has been quite a few years since I built mine (car subsequently sold) but I used TWM ITB's run via MegaSquirt. I used a common vacuum tube to pull a steady signal so I could run off of MAP, which I found a much better option than AlphaN. I know that folks have developed systems which run a mixture of these two these days and this is probably a better set up. Initially I ran with just air horns and crude filters but later switched to an airbox. On the dyno it showed basically zero impact from an hp standpoint (when switching from airhorns to airbox) but maybe would change once things get warm under the hood in real life driving, I don't know.
  6. Funny you should mention that Bugatti Adawil2002. When I went down there the other day to check out the Countach I mentioned earlier in this post, guess what it was parked next to...
  7. Hey congrats COOP. I love FJ. I work all of a mile or so away so swing by their every now and then for inspiration. I was actually just there yesterday to see the early “periscopo” Countach they have in stock as I’ve never seen one in the flesh before. Next time I stop by I’ll see if you are there to introduce myself. Congrats again.
  8. Well that was a really fun watch. Nice driving by you and your fellow racers. Looks like a ton of well matched cars and drivers. Great stuff.
  9. In many cases, Veteran is the importer/distributor that sells to other folks. They typically have the best pricing from what I've found. They are technically a wholesale shop I believe so not sure if they will sell to individuals or not. Worth a try though, by all means. Curious what you find.
  10. Interesting info Andrew. I'm curious to hear a little more about how your leather guy made the weave, that's really cool. Any idea how it got the strips so precisely cut? Also curious if the leather is then bonded to something. With the Spinneybeck material it is bonded onto a cotton backing to provide additional structure for longevity. Did he do something different? Either way, pretty cool, and very resourceful.
  11. I would give Lebaron Bonney and SMS Auto Fabrics a shot. They both have a large selection of materials. Ace Andrews seats are very nice indeed. That looks like Spinneybeck woven leather, the same stuff Singer use in their cars. I did an old Alfa with this material recently. Beautiful stuff but uber expensive as it's basically made to order with the exact leather hides you specify.
  12. Hi guys. Been a long time since I've posted on the forum since I'm 02-less these days. However, still check in to see what's up... On this thread in particular. A co-worker of mine used to be a very good customer of H&B (had a pig-cheeked '76 Sahara with all the Alpina goodies back in the day, no idea what became of it though) and was the supplier of their cast parts. The company was Pacific Pressure Cast in the SF Bay Area (no longer around) and they did their valve covers, Weber manifolds, rear spoiler mold, various badges, as well as the wheel centers. On the wheel centers, one little tidbit he told me is that the material is an aluminum alloy called 206a which has silver in it. Apparently it is as strong as forging and very expensive.
  13. I've gone through very similar work on an old Alfa that I'm restoring (I don't even own a 2002 anymore, but still check in on the FAQ periodically out of habit....) Anyway, if you can, I'd highly suggest using a copper heat sink behind your welds. It will really help minimize the risk of blow through as well as getting you a smoother weld on the backside which helps with hammer and dollying after the fact. Also, be willing to accept the fact that it WILL distort to some degree. You could drive yourself crazy trying to get it PERFECTLY flat with shrinking, hammering, etc.... However, some filler will be needed to get it perfectly smooth, so don't kill yourself trying to reduce the amount of filler from 1/8" to a 1/16". I spent countless hours on some of my panels trying to get them to where filler was essentially not needed, only to realize that it really made no difference at some point and I should likely have been focused on moving other parts of the project forward in a timely fashion. Hence my metalwork took almost three years.... By no means am I suggesting slathering on boatloads of Bondo, but just being realistic about how perfect it really does need to be.
  14. This stuff is made specifically for door panels.https://keystonbros.com/auto/auto-supplies-tools/panel-board/black-waterproof-32x48-panel-board-standard-size.html It's called "water proof" but I'd call it more water "resistant." It doesn't swell up if wet, but you don't want to go nutty getting water on it either. If you get plywood, you can source marine grade which is water resistant. Both will accept staples fine, and a nice thing about the panel board is you can sew directly to it if you have an industrial sewing machine.
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