JerryC

Search on Google for google image search, and there you are:

I don't know which forum to put this in, so here it is. I did search, didn't find anything. Microlino, a Swiss company, has prototypes of this cute little beast running around town now. They're calling is a "heavy quadricycle" electric vehicle. https://microlino-car.com/en/microlino -Jerry

This isn't for a restoration, but if all you want is a good repair, read on. Stainless steel wire wrapped around the clip lugs then twisted tightly makes for a durable repair. It lasted many years on all 3 heater boxes that I've repaired. All of them needed other non-stock repairs as well due to broken, brittle, old plastic. You can make a good sturdy box with the wire clamps and some home-made "improvements". Use backing washers that fit the rivets closely on all the rivets that grip directly on plastic. You'll most likely break the 45-50 year old plastic without them. Search for hot water valve repair tips. Making a bracket from sheet metal is not difficult. In reality, the bracket isn't all that necessary. The hoses will hold the valve in place well enough. Find some fairly thin open-cell foam sheet for the flap seals. Use trim adhesive to install it. The self-stick stuff may not stay on very long, and it's often too stiff to allow the doors to close completely. Check your local hardware store for rubber grommets. They often have some the fit the flap shafts. I've also found bronze bushings the fit the shafts, but you need to drill out the box to use those. They'll never wear out or become hard and brittle like the originals. Hope that helps.

Hmm.... that hole looks too big and close to the edge. What about adding a pin as suggested earlier, or two, and a pair of M6 bolts threaded into the good part of the web? Spread the load away from the weakened area. Just thinkin'...

+1 ... did the same on the '68 1600 I once had. Ended up rebuilding the heater box anyway. All the flap pads and cables were barely operational. Jerry

BMW added a notch to the bulkhead lip to improve visibility of the flywheel timing marks on tii's. The intake plenum obstructs viewing of the timing marks. Many owners of earlier tii's added a notch for the same purpose. Jerry

I saw one with probably an e30 dash at Fest West in Palo Alto in about 2003. AC supposedly worked, too, through the dash vents. Jerry

Looks like a great driving project car. Good driver '02s are still out there, apparently. That one's about like mine, some original parts have been replaced along the way. The plenum bulkhead is definitely deformed, and the hood (bonnet) spring plate is missing between the bulkhead and the base of the windshield. On the bright side, you won't need a notch in the bulkhead to set timing. ? Jerry

A competent machine shop (look for a job shop, it does not have to be an automotive machine shop) will be able to remove the broken bit. It will cost much less than a KF pump. A carbide drill bit will work on the broken torx bit to drill it out. I don't think that screw takes a torx bit, should use a hex bit.

My previous '02, a '68 1600, had lumps in the hood from the inside directly over the strut mounts. Not sure how that happened, it came to me like that. I suspect that if you remove the plastic covers and shorten the strut rod, the only thing that will happen if the rubber fails is that the upper spring perch will be pressed against the inner fender, rendering steering very difficult. Jerry

I think you should focus on the things that will make the car more fun to drive for you. Yes, get the title sorted. That keeps your car on the road without having to scan the rear view mirror all the time. If you like to drive with music, add that. It can cover some of the unwanted noises. Personally, I'd embark on a mechanical restoration starting with brakes and suspension. Brakes that work really well are actually quite satisfying, just get the stock brakes working like new and you may be surprised, they're pretty good. Next, steering and suspension. New bushings and steering joints make a quite noticeable difference in drivability. Get the best tires you want to afford, but make sure the suspension won't just wear them out prematurely. Upgrade the sway bars, and if you can, splurge for some good shocks. And, how are your tires (I already said that, I know). Tires can make the biggest noticeable difference in driving experience that you can do. Learn to tune the engine. If compression or leakdown tests are disappointing, hold off on the engine upgrades (carbs, cams, etc.) until you're money's ready to get the basic engine (pistons and valves that seal, all the oil stays inside, etc.) working well. You may not have to replace all the internals, maybe rings and a valve job will get you an engine that works well for 50,000 miles or so. Sounds like your reasons for wanting to do this are good ones, retreating to the garage can be a good release. Have fun with it. Jerry

+1 The eyeball method works amazingly well to set the front wheels parallel to the rear wheels. Like AVG says, sight along the outer sidewalls until left and right are misaligned to the rear the same amount (lock the steering wheel horizontal while moving the tie rod ends). On my car, I replaced the steering box and made certain it was centered before mounting the steering wheel on the steering shaft in its final position. It's easy to be off one spline and not notice it.

Go to realoem.com for parts lists: https://www.realoem.com/

Answer is, "It depends". If you're comfortable with tinkering with high precision mechanisms (think jewelry music box parts, disassembling a cell phone camera, etc. for the right parts size range and precision level), you can fix some things in there yourself. If not, send it to a speedo shop. Here's a diagram illustrating how it works. The speedo cable connects to the input shaft which spins the magnet setting up the eddy currents, etc. The magnet creates drag on the cup, and the shaft rotation is opposed by the spring. The faster the magnet spins, the farther the needle rotates while winding up the spring. The spring is tiny, it looks like a watch spring.

I ordered new shocks for my new-to-me RV through Amazon, (Koni's, yeah!). Order form stated 2 - 3 weeks delivery to ship from Florida to California. UPS delivered them in 3 days. Go figure.

Scientific method to prove Dog is your best friend: 1. Lock your significant other, and your dog, together in your '02's trunk. 2. Wait 30 minutes. 3. Open trunk. 4. Which one is happy to see you when you open the trunk? The dog, of course.

Seller seems somewhat transparent that the body has been previously damaged and subsequently worked on. Strange choice of "upgrades". Can't tell if there's a snorkel or not, but that's not the original nose piece anyway. Only 400 cars after mine, which has had prior, fairly extensive, bodywork as well. A lot can happen in 48 years.

+1 rolled sheet metal and temporary muffler tape. It could last for one trip.

What is that fuel sending / pump unit? From a 3-series perhaps? Kentbogdan: Maybe you're already aware of this, but that fuel tank piece is not original '02. Someone has fitted your car with an "upgrade", looks like an in-tank fuel pump (which didn't exist in the '70s). Problem is, it's probably up to you to figure out what it is and how it works, unless you happen to know the person(s) that did it and can contact them. Jerry

Sorry, haven't checked in for a while. It's standard practice to attach sacrificial zinc anodes to ocean-going boat hulls to protect aluminum outboard motor parts. https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2012/july/how-do-sacrificial-anodes-work Jerry

US ball bearing industry has an interesting history... Miniature Precision Bearings (MPB) was founded via military edict in the early '30s, when the best ball bearings were manufactured in Germany. As a critical defense component, ball bearing manufacturing needed to be set up in USA to stabilize the source, as Germany didn't seem to be real stable at the time. MPB quickly started importing ball bearings from Germany, while beginning production of their own. Importing continued until 1943 (huh, wasn't there a war going on?). When Hitler found out the factories the Allies were bombing were also selling to the Allies, he put a stop to it. True story, I may have some of the details off, but it really happened. Now, about the Browning machine guns in Messerschmitt fighters, that's another interesting story... Jerry

+1, put it back together as-is and figure out what you've got before fiddling with modifications. Do you know why the motor was removed? Jerry

Just add zinc, and the aluminum is safe.

Wow, you can eat off that undercarriage. That's an unusual exhaust setup, at least for me it is. Could those exhaust tubes be rubbing against each other? They are very close to the spare tire well, also. All that stuff moves and shakes while the engine is running and while you're driving.

The paper catalogs used to get pretty worn out, as I recall. I remember: Miller & Norburn Bimmer Parts Co Metric Mechanic Others that don't come to mind at the moment...