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GDI

Solex
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About GDI

  • Birthday August 20

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Central Connecticut
  • Interests
    Cars and photography

Recent Profile Visitors

518 profile views
  1. I can say it is rock solid from all indications thus far. I have some things to sort out yet like the blower motor and the drivers seat is ripped and worn, and general drivability stuff. The guy Rick sold it to in Texas put AC in it immediately, it works great but evidently they did it without checking the blower motor! I just finished refreshing the Shifter snd it is a joy to drive now. The paint is still good for the most part. Rick told me he got that way in the early 80’s so I assume the Fjord metallic failed Quickly and they just went to white. I want to get an estimate on getting it back to blue, but sticker shock may settle that question for me. I talked (email) to Rick about the wheels - the guy I got it from removed whatever he could so I didn’t get them, the cover, or coco mats with it ( though the cover and mats were in the pre purchase photos !) I’d like to get the correct alloys, but those are very hard to find! Anyway, I guess you can tell I like this car! It is really helping weather the pandemic, as I get to tinker with some things and drive it often!
  2. Yes Mike, I think so- your friend Is Rick, correct? I emailed him prior to buying the car and he was very helpful and made me more confident in my first long distance purchase.
  3. Thanks - I'm familiar with the "Oregon" smoke test - I utilized in my old '02 that I drive in college, but I need to Google Toby's version. I need to check the timing and inspect the distributor. Good excuse to upgrade to a modern timing light and I may put in one of those fancy electronic ignitions with blue tooth and ApplePay...
  4. I have AC in my '74 2002tii that was put in just prior to my buying last year, and works pretty well considering. It is a Behr unit and has an modern (Sanden?) compressor. My problem is that it really seems to drag on the engine, when I come to a stop light the engine will sometimes die, and on accelerating from lower RPMs it will miss a lot - I have to get the RPMs up to keep power. The car generally runs very strong with the AC off, occasionally I have some missing/rough running when lugging the engine. Any ideas of how I might diagnose/fix the problem? I am tempted to bump the idle up, but I think that will just cover up the root cause. Thanks
  5. Thanks- the plate was so sloppy when I took it apart I didn’t notice is wasn’t centered. I'm loving this car much more with a much more precise shifter!
  6. I got everything back together last night - and what a difference! The shift is nice and tight and so much more enjoyable to drive. I have been one other question though - when I had everything back and tightened, the shift plate is not centered in the hole in the tunnel. I think it is ok, I do not notice any problem with The shifter hitting anything and it looks normal from inside the car with the boot in place. Is that normal or did I adjust something incorrectly?
  7. Thanks - I never thought of that, I think I would have to get into removing the console or maybe even the AC to do that. So, I think I’ll end up dropping the drive shaft if this thing becomes a problem.
  8. While working in my shifter I found this large piece of tubing coming down from the interior just above the shifter rod. I could gently push it up a bit to make sure I got my shifter plate in correctly, is it for the air conditioning? Unfortunately, the previous owner added air to the car last summer at Terry Sather (he needed it in Texas, not needed as often in Connecticut), so maybe this is some kind of drain. Anyway here's a picture with the piece circle in yellow.... Thanks.
  9. Well, I finally gave up on getting that dowel out of the forward shift rod joint! I am going to refresh everything else and see how it goes. A note about the Ireland rebuild kit - they send the wrong size allen head bolts to bolt the shift platform to the transmission housing! They are too small, so I used the old, still good bolts. So I am not going to be able to use the shift rod joint or those two bolts. I did get everything else under the car ready, but I pulled the stickshift apart and found that the cap washer was torn and someone had packed black gooey crap between the upper and lower shifter sections - what a mess the clean. Anyway I now have an order in to Maximillian for a new lower shifter and all the innards. Hopefully the parts come soon, I am anxious to try out the new shifting situation. I will say that just the new parts on the shift plate have significantly tighten things up already. That unsed shiftrod oint is going to irratate me for a while, but if it looks like I have to have it, then I i'll drop the drive shaft and hopefully get it out then - my fingers are crossed...
  10. I have a '74 tii that was originally Fjord and came to me last year with an pre 81 white paint job. I am assuming that the metallic Fjord failed in similar fashion to the Polaris. The car is solid with no damage that is detectable, so that would be the only reason for painting it I can think of. The white is nice, but I think I may eventually want to go back to Fjord, so I'm trying to lean the best paint if I do go the original route some day.
  11. Great idea - I think I have some brake tool like that squirreled away somewhere. Thanks!
  12. Thanks all. I am making progress - But I am stuck at the forward shift rod joint.. I got the retaining clip off, but I can’t get the pin to budge! Any tips there, should I pull back on it , push it forward, or... I am really trying not to drop the drive shaft, I have not clunking or vibration, so if I can we’ll enough alone I will.
  13. I was thinking that buying a new guibo was a good idea, thanks! I guess I'll order one and get on this next weekend.
  14. Wow, thanks I assumed the guibo was a piece of cake! I need to take another look...
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