Slavs

Just remember, if you build an 1800cc motor there are two ways to do it: 1. Using the small bore 1600cc block with a 2002 crankshaft and pistons from an 1800ti Neu Klasse. This is the long stroke 1800cc motor used by BMW on their 1800 Neu Klasse from 63 through 68. There are "Ti" or TISA specific race parts for this engine as it was extensively raced. 2. Using the 2002 block with a 1600 crankshaft and pistons from the post 68 1800 Neu Klasse or the 1802. This is the short stroke 1800cc motor. It was never built in "Ti" configuration and there are no high compression "Ti" style pistons available for it unless you have them custom built. Both engines above use the same "118" head as used on the 1600-2 or 1602. The 1800TISA, though used a different head with larger valves. I believe they were the same size as used on the early 2002 with the 121 head.

As far as the early three spoke steering wheel as fitted to the 68 model year 1600-2 and 2002, it is easily identifiable when compared to the earlier single poke and later three spoke wheels. The horn actuation paddles on the early three spoke are metal vs. plastic used on later three spoke wheels. On the early three spoke the center hub pad is fitted into a polished aluminum piece which also makes up the ring. This is not the case with later 3 spoke wheels where the trim around the central hub pad is plastic and a part of the pad itself. And, as someone has already pointed out, I believe the 1968 three spoke wheel is larger than the later 3 spoke wheels. The early three spoke wheel was obviously more costly to produce. So, BMW did away with it. There is a thread somewhere here relating to the steering wheels in question. I've included a pic of my spare early single spoke wheel (minus the center plastic cover) next to my early 1968 three spoke wheel. I grabbed these wheels from the U-Pick Part wrecking yards 25 years ago. They cost next to nothing back then, the price of a meal at Mc Donalds (somewhere between $5 - $10 each). So many of these cars and related parts were all crushed and destroyed during the 90s. They were considered as throw away cars even by many of the car enthusiasts who were more fixated on the Porsche 911s, BMWs six cylinder coupes and the British Healeys. My pic is upside down again.

Steve, I'm one of the few people who prefers the forward mounting location for the mirror. When I was repairing my 69 1600 I chose to move the mirror forward. I also opted to use the swan neck mirror. I find that I don't have to twist my neck as much to view the mirror mounted in the forward position. The interference from the window frame is minimum, if any. I don't find this to be a problem at all. The only problem is when you open the small butterfly window. It obstructs the view in the open position. But, I hardly ever open it. I also prefer the aesthetics of the swan neck mirror which better compliments the clean lines of the car. The later square and larger mirrors offer a better view and are safer. Some of the tuners for Japanese cars use these later BMW mirrors on their Datrsun 510s. They are a huge improvement in aesthetics compared to the original mirrors on their cars.

Some of the pics on that brochure are of a 66 1600. The late 67 builds have a few different features in comparison to cars built earlier in the year: The main visible difference is in the bumper guards and license plate lights. Your car appears to have the correct bumpers and license plate lights for a late 67 build. Your pic of the steering wheel is not clear, but appears to be the steering wheel specific to 1600s and 2002 sold during 1968, only. This early 3 spoke steering wheel is of a higher quality build compared to the three spoke steering wheels which came after 1968. The pic of the steering wheel provided by westpalm2002 above is of the very early 3 spoke steering wheel. The pic of the steering wheel provided by Mark92131 above depicts a later post-1968 steering wheel. I don't know exactly when the early 3 spoke steering wheel was introduced to the 1600, but it must have been on cars built during late 1967, which were sold during 1968. Your door mirror is incorrect as it is a later post-69 mirror, although it appears to be mounted forward which is the correct mounting location for a 67. 1966-68 cars used the smaller and sleeker swan neck style mirror. The mirror was mounted forward on the 66-67, but was moved aft in 1968. This brings up an additional question; when exactly did they move the mirror aft ? I suspect this may have been done to cars built at the end of 67. Notice the forward position of the swan neck mirror on my earlier 67 1600-2 (Vin # starting with 152......... I don't know the rest from memory). The early single spoke steering wheel is also visible in the pic.

Hi Andrew, No, I don't run the ti/tii calipers. Both of my cars are early (pre-mid69) 1600s which still have the original brakes up front. Like the 1968 2002, they use the single piston caliper, the smallest of all styles used on the 02. These are single circuit brakes. I've installed the larger 2002 drums at the rear to bring the braking system to the 1968 2002 specs. These early calipers were also used on some Alfa Romeo sedans. And, I believe they may have been used on some Porsches. At least the same pads were used on the Porsches. They are adequate for normal driving and work well. So, that is why I continue to use them. So, I've never had any problems with wheel fitment.

I Run the Cosmic MKIs on my car. They are 51/2" x 13" with ET19 offset. I've been running both, 205/60 x 13 and 185/70 x 13 tires. Pictured are my most recent set of Dunlop SP Sport 205/60R 13 tires on the car. No fender lip rolling is required at the rear where I have 1/8" to 1/14" room to spare. I have -1/2 degree camber plates at the front. H & R Springs with Bilstein HD shocks. No rubbing anywhere. 20-30 years back people were throwing away 13" wheels in favor of the newer 14" and 15"wheels with the lower profile tires. But, I never liked the ride with the bigger wheels & tires which are quire a bit heavier and less comfortable.

These are very sad news, hitting close to home as Jeff was an active organizer within the 02 community in Southern California. Most of us here who've been part of the 02 community during the past 15 years have met him or known of him. Even if you didn't know him, but had attended a SoCal Vintage event, you've heard his voice as he made announcements for rewards, etc. My sincerest condolences to Jeff's family, Slavs

No, we didn’t get the post-68 redesigned 1800 as far as I know, but I’ve seen quite a number of 1969 2000s here with the redesigned dash. I know they first redesigned the dash on the 1800 before incorporating the horizontal lights at about 1970. I like the redesigned dash, and I like the vertical tail lights and easier access to the trunk. I’ve seen a lot of NK cars in very good shape at the wrecking yards in Southern California 25 years ago. These cars were really cheap over here.

I missed many opportunities over the years. 1500, 1600, 1800, 1800ti or early 2000ti Neu Klasse with vertical tail lights. The post 1968 1800 with the redesigned dash and 1800cc motor would be great. Thanks, Slavs

Those are the identical bushings used in the early 1600-2 and 2002 through mid-69. The rubber replacement bushings are too loose as they seem to be 1-2mm too small in diameter. That was the case with the batch shipped to me. When I tried installing them, they just fell through. I ended -up wrapping them with aluminum tape for a tight fit, but that's not going to hold up in the long run. Are you suggesting they expand in diameter when torqued in place ?

The 1600s up to early 68 had the pre-smog manifold with no injector tubes. It is essentially the 1600 version of the so called "tii" manifold. When I replaced the smog manifold with injector tubes with a 67 pre-smog manifold I immediately noticed s difference. My car seemed to gain a little torque or power.

You mentioned 1.8L head with 2.0L block. What exactly do you mean by that ? The 1.8L you are referring to has the same block and bore diameter (89mm) as the 2.0L. The difference is in the crankshaft. The 1.8L you are referring to has the short stroke (71mm) crankshaft while the 2.0L has the long stroke (80mm) crankshaft. You can use the same block to build either a 1.8L or 2.0L, just depends on what crankshaft you choose. While the pistons are the same bore the pin to deck height is different for the 71mm short stroke motors vs. the 80mm long stroke motors. The pistons are matched to either of the crankshafts. You can't mix 1.8L and 2.0L pistons because they have different pin to deck heights. Furthermore, each style head had a different combustion chamber design. You can only use the pistons designed for that specific combustion chamber. As far as the rods, they are all the same for all M10 motors.

I run fixed old school camber plates. They are about - 1/2 degree, but this small amount helps with rubbing and is actually visible to the naked eye. In addition to camber they also add caster, resulting in increased stability. Any time I turn the steering wheel, it returns back to the straight ahead position more readily and with less effort due to the caster. My camber plates are very well made, but they are 3/8" thick. With my slightly lower after market springs it works out well as I prefer to have a little clearance between the tire and the fender lip. After installing the camber plates i had to realign my front suspension. The camber plates add a slight amount of additional wear to the inside of the tire if driving on straight aways, but they actually help with wear if driving in the twisties.

Insanity !! Twenty years ago I stopped at a classic car dealership in Santa Monica, CA to check out the cars. They had a beautiful 507 and were asking $60K for it. They also had a late 50s vintage Alfa Giulietta for $10K. My impression of the 507 was that it was smaller in person than in the pictures. $60K is one thing, but $1,6 Million + is insane. I just saw an all original tool kit for a Porsche 356 listed on e-bay for $2,500. It's just crazy. Some of the young Hipsters in LA who are purchasing the 912s for $50K act as if though they have bought their way into the elite. It's insane. The 912 and 356 were disposable Porsches when I was in my early 20s. People ridiculed you for spending $3,000 on a car which only marginally out performed a VW. The 911, though, commanded respect. I don't know what's worse, the crazy prices or some of the attitudes. After my last bout with that Porsche 912 crowd at the local Cars & Coffee, I never care to return. I'm not impressed, but I'm neither surprised. There is also a very obvious dichotomy between those who are throwing around millions on hobbies and toys and the majority of people who are trying to keep a roof over their heads during the pandemic. Just, how socially responsible or irresponsible are people in general ? It's just odd to see this and make sense of it during these times.

It's the inner bearing which has a larger inside diameter due to the larger spindle used on the early 1600, through mid-69. It is larger by 2mm compared to the more common later bearings. I believe the outside diameter is the same. After looking everywhere I found the correct bearings at Pep Boys of all places. I have no clue why in the world they went to a smaller diameter spindle. It's obviously not as strong. BMW increased the spindle diameter on the 2002tii by 4mm. So the early 1600 spindles are mid size between the later 02 and the tii. I don't know what the part # is. It depends on the manufacturer. Most BMW vendors and shops hardly carry any parts specific to the early cars because there is little to no demand for them.

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Thanks for sharing the pic , Mike. Looking southwest along Hollywood Blvd. as it intersects Las Palmas. They've given the entire area a facelift during the past 20 years. I purchased my first 02, a Manilla 1968 1600, in 1982 and often drove it along Hollywood Blvd. en route to school or work. Most daily driver 02s in the area had damaged noses, bumpers and door dings, especially if parked in these congested areas. Traffic congestion along this route has become extreme during the past 20 years. I avoid the area these days.

You can do it it in 2hrs. in a shop with hydraulic hoist, and that's if you don't encounter any unexpected problems. But, it's a different story at home. I take my time raising the car incrementally on large wood blocks. I usually spend about an hour raising the car. Jack stands have too small of a surface area. I just don't feel safe with them. A lot of people take their cars to the muffler shops which are notorious for welding together the different muffler sections. If you come across this obstacle, you got to cut everything apart. And, never again allow a muffler shop to ever touch your exhaust system. Make time for an entire day to complete this job. Sometimes, it's taken me a couple of days.

264 for all production 02s including the "Ti" and "tii". The street version of the NK 1800TISA got the 300 while the track cars got more radical than that. 264 is all you need in a tii which in most cases will win a drag race against most home grown hot rod 2002s with long durationl cams and sidedraft carbs. In building the "ti" the factory was looking for a slight bump in performance (+20hp) without sacrificing flexibility. The "Ti" was meant for everyday driving where engine idle, a wide power band, fuel consumption etc. were all taken into consideration. The "ti" motors have bumped up compression and twin carbs along with a mechanical advance distributor. They don't have longer duration cams and larger valves etc.

You got to be careful when swapping M10engine components. A little M10 history; BMW started the M10 line with the 1500 back in 1961. The 1500 has a 82mm bore and a short 71mm stroke, delivering 80hp with the single barrel Solex. Shortly after the introduction of the 1500, BMW introduced the 1800 in 1963 with a larger 84mm bore and longer 80mm stroke. The 1800ti and TISA followed in 1964. These were the first high performance models. But, going back to 1963, an owner of a small Bavarian typewriter company, created the first Alpina kit for the 1500 to bring it up to par in horsepower to the 1800. The kit included manifolds and Weber DCOE 40 carbs along with an air filter box for the otherwise stock 1500. This kit was good for a boost in about 10hp. Alpina served as an inspiration for BMW to create the 1800 and 1800ti. BMW created its first 1600 M10 during 64-65, after the 1800. In making the 1600, they retained the bore of the 1800 and combined it with a 1500 short stroke crankshaft. These first 1600s were installed in the four door NK cars. They were good for 83 HP. The 2.0L was created in 65-66 by boring out the 1800 block to 89mm and using the 1800 crankshaft, but with additional counterweights to account for the larger mass pistons and rotating mass. In 1966 the 2nd generation 1.6L was created for the 1600-2 or the first 02. This engine got an additional 2 hp, raising output to 85hp by incorporating the larger intake valves of the 1800ti. During 67-68 BMW created the 1600ti which was good for about 105HP with the addition of taller crowns on the pistons, raising compression, and twin side draft Solex carbs. During 1966 BMW created the 2000Ti with bumped up compression and twin sidedraft Solex carbs. In 1968 BMW dropped its 2.0L motor into the body of the 1600-2 and created the 2002. During the same year it also created the 2002ti by borrowing the motor from the 2000ti NK. It also redesigned its 1.8L motor in 68 to a short stroke configuration by using the 2.0L block with its 89mm large diameter pistons and combining it with the short stroke 71mm crankshaft of the 1500 and 1600. This resulted in a smoother running motor. Short stroke motors are always smoother. The short stroke 1.8L was used in the later NK 1800 sedans from 68-72 and the 1802. It was later also used in the 1.8L e21 320i and the e30 318, but with redesigned pistons crowns and heads. All the short stroke motors use the same crankshaft, but at some time during the late 70s BMW stopped forging their cranks. They started using weaker cast cranks for all their engines except the "M" series. The first fuel injected production M10 was created in 1969 and used in the 2000Tii NK. The same motor was dropped into the 02 in 1972 to create the 2002tii. BMW essentially kept the same block from the inception of the M10 in their 1962 1500 . It just bored it out and / or added additional stroke to increase displacement. In the case of the 1.8L, in 1968 it changed the configuration of the motor from a small bore / long stroke arrangement to a large bore / short stroke arrangement. The short stroke 1.8L, which you are referring to, has the same 89mm bore of the 2.0L. But, its 89mm pistons are not interchangeable with the 89mm pistons of the 2.0L because the short stroke motors have a different pin to deck distance compared to the longer stroke motors. And, this is also the case with the early long stroke 1.8L which has the same diameter 84mm pistons as the short stroke 1600. The pistons are not interchangeable. BMW used the same length connecting rods in all their production M10 motors. The crankshafts were all either 71mm stroke or 80mm stroke. As I pointed out above, BMW stopped forging their cranks during the late 70s. So, if you are hell bent on building a short stroke 1.8L with a strong crank, you would need to hunt down an 8 bolt 1600-2 or 1602 or 1802 crank of 1970-76 vintage. The later 1.8L cranks as used in the e21 320i and e30 318 are cast vs. forged. BMW arrived at the conclusion that forged cranks were overkill and too expensive for most of their production cars. But, they still use them in the “M” series and the race motors.

Are you having problems with the torsion bar or spring bar keeping the hood up ? It's not that hard. You just have to have some patience. I always remove the hood when pulling the motor. Before I do I draw an outline around all the washers/ bolts fastening the hood to the brackets. But, even if I don't, I can usually realign the hood in about 20-30 minutes. I'm up here in Burbank which is probably 70 miles North of Mission Viejo. Otherwise, I'd help you. Slavs

Toby's approach is sound and feasible. It beats pulling the trans back. But, nothing beats the ease of replacing the slave on the stock 4 speed. The 80-83 1.8L US spec 320i feels better and more natural with the 245/5 and the 3.90 diff than a 2 liter with a similar set-up. 1st gear doesn't feel like a stump puller because the 1.8L of the 320i is a short stroke motor (71mm stroke vs.the 80mm stroke of the 2.0L). It has less torque, especially at the low end. With the 2.0L 1st gear only feels natural with the 3.64 diff, otherwise it feels like a "Stump Puller" with a 3.90 diff and especially with the 4.11 diff. But, if you mate the 245/5 with a 3.64 diff and 2.0L, 5th gear probably feels a little too long and tall. There is no perfect solution. The best compromise is the 3.90 diff. This leads me to think that the 245/5 was designed with the short stroke1.8L in mind. Those motors were all over the place and the junk yards. I'm surprised there are not many of them installed in 2002s. Yes, by that time BMW had stopped forging their crankshafts, but for a stock or near stock motor the cast cranks are adequate. Or one could replicate the 1802, which also had the short 71mm stroke and mate it with a 245/5 and a 3.90 diff. The 1802 an 8 bolt forged crank, the same one used in the post-69 1600.